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Of course, that's only relative to how much you're machining.. For the most part i dont think i'd ever consider machining the OEM fly wheel to save weight a safe thing lol. Won't explode with light resurfacing (machining) seeing as it's NORMALLY, max 5 thousandths of an inch of material unless it's in really rough shape, at which a/m flywheel would be the best option..
I love my ACT clutch.. It's a solid hub 6 puck with pressure plate.. break in period was by the box (500 ish) and with a few hard starts, it seats really well and beds well with every shift.. Haven't had any issues with slipping up around 300 whp thus far.. Will no more once i have my rebuilt turbo in.. But these are good until around, 450 whp i believe? Should be mint.
mine is good to 620 ft lbs
Proud owner of the 2nd Skyline and the only GTR on the island!
Skym's on the nose here. You'll need to bump the hydraulic lifters for the solid lifters on the GTR, as well as run their buckets/shims/valve springs etc which will cost more than swapping valve springs and poncams in.
i thought if you collapse the lifters and put them back in and pray to god they pump back up and readjust you should be okay? the lifters wont last as long though.
okay i ccant find the camera at the moment so ill ask my family were it is, seems to move places alot. pics later today i promise!
im getting a really good deal on the tomei pump, it will be cheaper than the other options.
thanks for the input, sorry about the lack of photo's
With stock GTR cams in RB20DET, Tomei solid lifter conversion kit for RB20DET is must have and higher lift Tomei valve springs, Tomei bronze valve guides if you want valvetrain to last and be reliable.
With Poncams you don't need to change valve springs, etc (designed to work with stock valve springs, stock cam gears, etc). But if stock valve springs have done high km, it's worth changing them out for some new higher lift aftermarket valve springs or at least new stock valve springs. Should cost less than $300 for a set (24 valve springs) of higher lift valve springs for RB20DET from USA. Or more $$$ if you buy valve springs from Japan (including shipping).
When you fit a more aggressive cam profile than Poncams, upgraded valve springs are a must have mod.
If you pull the head for upgraded valvesprings, upgraded headgasket, you'll get a leak test done by head specialist and recut all 24 valve seats, valves (or valves, seats that are leaking if your on a smaller budget) so they don't leak.
haha sorry i took 2 pictures and didnt seem worth it, i keep leaving camera at home, but its legit and happening, i dont have school for a week so i hope i can finish it.
what i have made progress on...
removed SMIC
removed turbo and manifold ect.
broken coolant feed line its a bitch to replace.
clock turbo, and oil feed line.
modify engine mount and powersteering line.
what i have to do...
instal FMIC and trim bumper (gotta get rid of my adjustable spoiler crap now which is a PITA)
modify FMIC piping
fabricate the outlet pipe ( waiting for 3" v band flange and clamp)
fabricate the screamer pipe.
tweak the oil return line, not sure if i want to do a braided hose or just modify the stock rb20 turbo one (the ID on the rb oil return flange is same as ID on the holset)
weld on forge BOV.
wait for my exhuast gasket so i can bolt my mani up for good
as of now its just sitting in there and there is little clearance lol, it is a tight fit im running the stock sidemount manifold with an 38mm flange, im planning on boost creep. still not sure if i should shell the $$ for a top mount manifold yet.
im going to run 7psi with a wideband to make sure, i think i should be fine for now.
i wont promise this time but providing i remember the camera i will for sure snap pictures.
haha sorry i took 2 pictures and didnt seem worth it, i keep leaving camera at home, but its legit and happening, i dont have school for a week so i hope i can finish it.
what i have made progress on...
removed SMIC
removed turbo and manifold ect.
broken coolant feed line its a bitch to replace.
clock turbo, and oil feed line.
modify engine mount and powersteering line.
what i have to do...
instal FMIC and trim bumper (gotta get rid of my adjustable spoiler crap now which is a PITA)
modify FMIC piping
fabricate the outlet pipe ( waiting for 3" v band flange and clamp)
fabricate the screamer pipe.
tweak the oil return line, not sure if i want to do a braided hose or just modify the stock rb20 turbo one (the ID on the rb oil return flange is same as ID on the holset)
weld on forge BOV.
wait for my exhuast gasket so i can bolt my mani up for good
as of now its just sitting in there and there is little clearance lol, it is a tight fit im running the stock sidemount manifold with an 38mm flange, im planning on boost creep. still not sure if i should shell the $$ for a top mount manifold yet.
im going to run 7psi with a wideband to make sure, i think i should be fine for now.
i wont promise this time but providing i remember the camera i will for sure snap pictures.
Blah blah blah blah blah it didnt happen theres no pics to prove
okay so i forgot the camera once again but ill put a few pic up so no one gets angry
tomei head gasket and timing belt and new water pump/
and turbo ( im not so great at taking pictures, so bear with me
and a picture of my car (suprising i know! i actually have one ). crappy picture, ill upload a better picture. that i didnt take lol, you will see the difference
i left thecamera in my car now so i can take pictures of something more interesting
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