Project NashZilla: R32 GT-T NEO

[amnash]

friend of mine got creative with my coilpack cover putting some holes in. I like it
just to decide whether to paint it black or red to match the valve covers? im kind of liking the black in the middle

[amnash]

thanks man, ya its coming along. engine will be running in no time once bearings come in

[trickey1991]

man i just read every comment in this build...sweet..never done that before..really interested me..looks awesome dude

[amnash]

acl bearings came in today. to bad they sent me the wrong rod bearings.. i had everything lined up and ready to go to the machine shop too. would of been a perfect weekend..lol
they sent me rb30 bearings instead of the rb20. maybe its a sign to get something bigger

[Skym]

I like.

[Nismo_line]

got a sock and all the wiring for 100 aswell

[M13]

get a walbro filter sock. it's like 10 bux.

[M13]

yeah just buy a new one.

That one should have come w/ a new sock for that price.


I got my genuine 255lph for 100bux w/ wiring kit.

[falcon]

Just buy a new one. They are dirt cheap, Mopac in Langley should have them in stock.

[amnash]

little update, went to put in a gtr fuel pump that i bought of a gtrc member and found out that there was a walbro inside there. this one right here: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...owtopic=295445
the oem gtr flows 195L/H i think? and this flows 255L/H.

heres a side by side pic of the two. walbro looks very small.

[amnash]

small update (cosmetics)

went about making my trunk as good as new.
got all the hard to find parts from feastauto, exactly what i needed!


fixed up the odd colored emblem with some touch up paint.
before

after



rtv'd the struts to the spoiler to prevent it from happening again, and slapped it all back together:


Good As New!

[amnash]

ill be running 5w40 amsoil after the break in. and during the break in ill use just petroleum based oil 10w30

[Skym]

Translator for the GTS-R badge that was mentioned on page 4 or 5 -

http://translate.google.co.nz/?ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tab=wT#

Bearings wear could be due to cavitation (heat damages surface of bearing). Using wrong viscousity of oil or like mentioned in this thread, oil not up to operating temperature (too thick with cst rating to get to and lube bearings properly) can cause this. Also oil starvation is another.

I found using a 10w60 weight oil was way too much and actually could cause more wear on bearings due to high cst which makes it hard for oil to reach bearings. Max is w50 weight for racetrack and for most modified road cars a w40 weight is enough.

Only way to know what oil is best, is monitor oil temps via oiltemp gauge and see where it sits when engine is warm, after driving. Then choose oil to suit. Most oils seem to break down after around 120degrees. Unless it's a w60 weight that's used in some applications where oil temps are extremely high.

I ended up using a 10w40. Interesting things I found after switching to this oil from a 10w60, is engine starts, idles smoother, better engine response, cooler (haven't checked coolant temps, but notice a difference) with correct oil. Wouldn't think that oil makes that big of a difference, but it does. Also oil can rob engine of hp and make it struggle to accelerate (like I mentioned with engine response).

Opie oil in UK have a document that mentions the cst at 100 degree oil temp, so can make a informed decision -

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/10w-60-oil.pdf

Factory is 5w30 (have it on a sticker on my car). Oil temps on RB20DET can reach 100-120 degrees when modified, so w40 weight is enough for street use. With basic intake, exhaust, oiltemp is around 93+ degrees on the street with 10w40. Even on the street, RB20DET can benefit from a engine oilcooler.

[M13]

Damn Pat's car ran super rich. (previous owner)

[nelsonmxmarc]

All good man!
Looks fine! I wouldnt even bother with a line hone/rings if the compression was good. No blowby, looks fine to me!

Definitely running rich though