Project NashZilla: R32 GT-T NEO

[amnash]

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sorry for quality...crappy phone pics

[amnash]

And the two top ones are questionable.. Can you feel that scoring with your nail?

Can you take pictures of your pistons? You mentioned possible blowby or questionable condition. At which point, have the block spec'd and line honed (if not ovaled or out of spec), then re ring the oem pistons if money is an issue. These will work over 400 hp so no worries.

i could feel the scoring with my nail even with ruber gloves on.

and here are some pics of my pistons, i dont know if there is a visual sign of blowby but like i said, some of the pistons i removed dropped right out of the cylinder from its own weight once the rod bolts were removed, rings couldn't of been sealing very well

[nelsonmxmarc]

No no, 3 sizes are the 3 available journal sizes. If you go into the FSM, the have 3 sizes available, almost like boring over, 1,2,3 sizes over.

You will have to change main and connecting rod journal bearings.

Balancing is just the crank, connecting rods and pistons. Check youtube and you'll find a video of a balancing station at a machine shop.

You can usually get away without balancing if you buy all new rods/pistons and etc since all equipment is balanced in factory. But your crank, being that it's not new and may need polishing, will certainly need to be balanced (remove weight from counter balances), and this is best done with the whole rotating assembly in place.

Normally they'll put the motor together, girdle in place, then simulate the engine running upwards of 8-9000 rpm to check for any shake or balance issues, then work from there.

[amnash]

yea i was planning on getting it all balanced together. pressure plate, flywheel, pistons, rods, and the crank

[nelsonmxmarc]

Also dont forget, you'll need to have your rotating assembly balanced and blue printed. IT's worth the cost - 500-600$ ballpark. Guarantees reliability, but i dont think they'd let you leave the machine shop without doing it..

[nelsonmxmarc]

Main bolts are the bolts that hold the crank girdle in place (Holds crank in place)

Should be ok for size, i dont think your cylinders will need a bore.

For the journals, you'll need a micrometer as measurements with a caliper wont measure precisely the hundredth or thousandth of an inch. You need to be incredibly precise. Wear on the crank journal means a smaller journal size, means increased bearing (step 2) size. If it's not too bad, and needs a quick polish, you may be fine with the oem spec size. But this comes down to 0.0xx of an inch. Take it to a professional, they'll be able to fit the new bearings for you and you won't have to deal with the headache of measuring tolerances. It REALLY doesn't take much to mess it up..

On the journal bearing, there's a stamp. You probably wont need to, but i'd suggest giving them the FSM journal tolerances along with subsequent part numbers for all 3 bearing sizes, so that they can order the proper set from ACL. Too many headaches in this department. One guy just posted about his crank seizing all together - used rb26 bearings on the journal, never even knew.

[M13]

I have a polished RB20 crank if you need one.


Should be much cheaper than polishing your own.

[amnash]

ya that was the plan to use oem pistons. ill be getting the block honed and ACL bearing fitted. the crank will be getting a polish.
the mains and main bolts...you just mean the head studs? i already have a box of arp head studs if thats what you mean.
i already bought oem piston rings a while ago...im hoping that after the hone i wont have to get oversized rings..

[nelsonmxmarc]

Looks like heat soak, or hard start ups.

Heat soak is caused primarily by hard driving in hot conditions (or not), usually when oil reaches the threshold point of 220 celsius. This has been known as the point of fail for most RB engines, and where caution is throw in the direction of purchasing an external oil cooler. Because the GTR was a track car, it was mounted with an oil cooler to prevent these temps as they were known as fatal.

The scoring you see looks more like it was done on a cold start, high revving. A lot of people don't take much time to let oil temperatures warm up before abusing their car. Much like cold seizing a piston (same vertical striations), it's almost as if the journal itself was prevented from moving. Dirty oil can cause this too, small sand-paper like particles (metal fragments, not sand) build up through use.

If i was to rate these, i'd say your bassline here would be picture number 4. The one above it saw heat, and is not bad at all. The last one, what are those black specks? And the two top ones are questionable.. Can you feel that scoring with your nail? Do you have access to a micrometer to determine if these are within spec? Measurement technique is proposed in the FSM, as well as run-off and allowable clearances.

Scoring is bad, and generally means the bearing needs replacement, and the journal needs to be polished. Assuming your crank is out now, see if you can see any markings on the crank journal. If so, you'll need to send this to a machine shop, have them order new ACL bearings and have them installed properly. Along with this, new rod bolts, because the deflection from previous deformation cannot be used. And, since you're there, new mains and main bolts (CANNOT BE REUSED, or SHOULDN'T).

Basically you'll have a new bottom end.

Can you take pictures of your pistons? You mentioned possible blowby or questionable condition. At which point, have the block spec'd and line honed (if not ovaled or out of spec), then re ring the oem pistons if money is an issue. These will work over 400 hp so no worries.

[amnash]

This is how some of my bearing looked(not sure if this is normal wear and tear or not..)

[amnash]

man thats one aggressive stance. looks soo mean
that car must eat babies

you're really goin to town on your car..good work man!!

thanks man!

[Skym]

R32 GTS-T is meant to look like this -



But R32 GTS-T look best like this (original look) -

[nelsonmxmarc]

lol.. GTS-R badges. Just like type R badge on non-type R integras.

Ya, but GTSR badges on GTSR 'replica' built car of a different era is a bit different. Everything, minus the intake and exhaust manifold will be of GTSR origin/design on my GTS.. But i agree, it's not THE GTSR, it's still and always will be a GTST.

[Skym]

R31 GTS-R had a sticker -



Same type of decals as what a R32 GTS-T came with from factory (most remove the stickers).

[MaxGTST]

lol.. GTS-R badges. Just like type R badge on non-type R integras.