1992 HCR32 type m battleship (esh build)

[esh]

Very nice dude! I like your subframe pics, will help me out as its on my winter list. Did you use Ams solid bushings or PBM?

I wanna know how the offset rack spacers work for you. Its a good $$$ alterative to PBM moded knuckles hey? Either way im subrsciped to your thread now:P

P.S think you should sell the wheels, get some Chicago's DEEEP DISHH.

Thanks! The solid bushings are from Bing (bings.ca) as are the suspension arms, except the driftworks hicas eliminator. The PBM bushings are nice too and are easier to fit as they just slide right in with epoxy. They also raise the subframe half an inch. The bings stuff is local, cheaper and was in stock when I needed them (and he's a great guy to deal with).

I'll keep everyone posted on the rack spacers, I just removed and re-installed them yesterday with loctite.

I'm def keeping the set of mb battles. I bought the pair of cst's with higher offset for the front so that my front wheels don't stick out more than the rear (r33 flca). Eventually once the budget allows, I would love to get some DISHHHHHHHH haha.

[S13Jordie]

I think you will love the solid bushings. I had AMS ones in my S13 and it slid so well. are you going to shanny at the end of the month?

[esh]

Yeah I'm planning on going to at least the coolkids/d ops day. Prolly the get loose day as well

[esh]

Continuing on from last time...ran into some issues/mishaps/mistakes...epic story post will explain better.


Got new balljoints pressed in for both RLCA.




I tried to rush the whole replacing balljoints operation and made the mistake of forgetting to remove the circlips when I pressed the old balljoints out. This damaged the RLCA holes so that the new balljoints would fit loosely on the arm. Picked up s13 RLCAs and had to repeat the ordeal properly.




Energy bushings into knuckles. Used a channel lock oil filter wrench to press in sleeves easily.




The long bolt that I used for the subframe bushings was quite useful for pressing in the energy bushings.




One of the rear studs on my diff was stripped, so had to remove it. Ended up just using a high grade bolt that was the same size.




I was originally going to shim the diff...but decided to get the diff welded instead. Sasha at SG did a great job welding it for me. I finally put everything back together:




2nd week of October, I flew out to Peru to visit friends and family. The night before I left I ended up working late to get the subframe back in and the car back on the ground. Also swapped the rear brake pads, but didn't have enough time for the fronts.




Came back from Peru just before halloween weekend. Got my father to help me cut the front tie rods and tie rod ends to get rid of the toe in caused by the driftworks spacers. Time was running out for the last CLC/Drift Ops event...




...and then it all went really downhill. Angle grinder hit my first knuckle of right hand. I could see tendon and bone, but I could still bend the finger and make a fist...so we proceeded to finish cutting and get the car back on the ground. Hole in the tendon got stitched (luckily it didn't cut all the way through the tendon), and the cut itself got stitched as well. No drift event for me




Couldn't move right hand for a while but I managed to swap the front brake pads with just my left hand (but took foreveeerrrr). Managed to get the battles on too and took her for a spin.










Still needs alignment, more lower, fresh paint, bodywork, better wheels, etc etc....but for now its time for hibernation. Lesson learned: no more builds during driving season...next season I don't want to miss a single event.

Thanks for reading

[cdnleaf]

Great build, really nice mods. Rather than complaining, your neighbours should thank-you for keeping an eye on the neighbourhood.

[R32FIEND]

Car looks dam good man. I am running PBM comp coils and love them. How are you liking the pros? Mine are nearly maxxed out! But it sits right where I want anyways. How much lower could you go??
Awesome pics on the subframe I am tackling that once I am finished stitch welding.
Keep up the good work.

Myles D

[esh]

Great build, really nice mods. Rather than complaining, your neighbours should thank-you for keeping an eye on the neighbourhood.

Thanks! Yeah it had to be my next door neighbour with no love for driveway car work. Everybody else is cool with it.

Car looks dam good man. I am running PBM comp coils and love them. How are you liking the pros? Mine are nearly maxxed out! But it sits right where I want anyways. How much lower could you go??
Awesome pics on the subframe I am tackling that once I am finished stitch welding.
Keep up the good work.

Myles D

Thanks man. I'm running the 2011 pbm comp coils. I don't think pbm has pros for r32. I should have some pics of how I have the coils set right now, I'll upload soon. In order to go lower, I would have to droop the front and rear coils. Probably remove collars in the front too. I'm also gonna switch to 225/35/18 in the front instead of 225/40/18.

The hsd's I had before could maybe go just slightly lower in the front without drooping. Rears would be about the same. The pbms, are much stiffer, that's for sure. Seems like most coilovers for r32 need to be drooped in order to go low.

What are you stitch welding on the car?

Also I'll upload pics soon of the angle I can achieve with the dw offset spacers.

[R32FIEND]

I'm not following you on the drooping coils. Never heard that before. Please explain?? Lol

I am stitch welding the engine bay and interior sheet metal... Any where there is a seem really. Between stitch welding, cage and chassis bracing. There is no way this thing will flex by the time I am done with it.

[S13Jordie]

I'm not following you on the drooping coils. Never heard that before. Please explain?? Lol

once you lower your car all the way until there is no more adjustment and the perch is bottomed out, you can lower it more by taking tension off the spring (moving the collars, that lock the position of the coil, down) doing this allows you to lower the car more, but IMO the ride suffers bigtime.

[Chihuts]

Amazing build going man. I love seeing people waiting for mastercraft tools to go on sale hahahha exact same thing I do at the moment. Truly inspiring when you've been doing all this work in your driveway. Also, all the painting done on the subframe looks great, really love when someone puts in the effort to conserve everything. Anyways, when paiting the sub-frame, did you just use a generic metal paint? primer or no? Just curious, looks good.

[esh]

I'm not following you on the drooping coils. Never heard that before. Please explain?? Lol

I am stitch welding the engine bay and interior sheet metal... Any where there is a seem really. Between stitch welding, cage and chassis bracing. There is no way this thing will flex by the time I am done with it.

Ah nicee....I need to learn how to weld stuff lol

once you lower your car all the way until there is no more adjustment and the perch is bottomed out, you can lower it more by taking tension off the spring (moving the collars, that lock the position of the coil, down) doing this allows you to lower the car more, but IMO the ride suffers bigtime.

Yup, what Jordie said ^. I also agree that the ride suffers lots...droop too much and you'll be riding on bumpstops

Amazing build going man. I love seeing people waiting for mastercraft tools to go on sale hahahha exact same thing I do at the moment. Truly inspiring when you've been doing all this work in your driveway. Also, all the painting done on the subframe looks great, really love when someone puts in the effort to conserve everything. Anyways, when paiting the sub-frame, did you just use a generic metal paint? primer or no? Just curious, looks good.

Thanks! Everything at cdn tire seems to go on sale eventually, might as well wait unless its urgent. As for the paint, I used VHT High Temp Roll Bar and Chassis Paint (Flat Black). $13 per can at cdn tire. No primer needed, but I used several coats.

[Chihuts]

Nice, thanks for the reply. Keep the build rolling !

[gtstjason15]

wow sick build man, cars very nice! i was wondering how much you pay for the coilovers? they look beast but very expensive! lol

[esh]

Sorry for the late reply, the coilovers are 1000 usd of pbm's website + shipping/taxes. They look nice but are more entry level coilovers like hsd, stance, etc.

As for the build, the car is in storage and won't be worked on until I find a new job. Possibly even in the states, which could complicate things.

[TylerMac05]

dude i luv the color n the wheels go well with it great build dude