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89' GTST Build....not the way I had planned

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  • #16
    Cool, that's what I'm really wondering is if it is something to be concerned with or not.

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    • #17
      It's rare to find a Skyline without at least one dent on the rails. Also it can be from the bottom of the car bottoming out in a big pothole or entering, exiting a difficult driveway entrance.

      If worried, those chassis rails are stitched onto the floor pan (bonus of being a monoque chassis) and should be able to be replaced by a panel beater. But be aware that if dented, they rust on the inside of the rail (don't see it happening until you check through the vent holes with a small mirror or similar) and can make them weaker.

      A Caroliner or similar chassis alignment machine can pull out dented panels and maybe rails too (never looked into if they can do rails).
      RESPONSE MONSTER

      The most epic signature ever "epic".

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      • #18
        jeez you sold your 08 STI for this thing?....I know you Americans are all giddy about getting the skylines but I hope you didn't end up paying a lot for your car! Sounds like you had to dump some money into already after the accident, and the damage underneath doesn't look that great either.

        I wish you the best with your build man, when our 15 year rule came along in Canada I was one of the early owners of a 1989 GTR....lets just say there was happy days, and there was sad days lol

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Skym View Post
          It's rare to find a Skyline without at least one dent on the rails. Also it can be from the bottom of the car bottoming out in a big pothole or entering, exiting a difficult driveway entrance.

          If worried, those chassis rails are stitched onto the floor pan (bonus of being a monoque chassis) and should be able to be replaced by a panel beater. But be aware that if dented, they rust on the inside of the rail (don't see it happening until you check through the vent holes with a small mirror or similar) and can make them weaker.

          A Caroliner or similar chassis alignment machine can pull out dented panels and maybe rails too (never looked into if they can do rails).
          Obviously my only worry is what could happen if I was in another accident and I'm definitely not wanting to try and get those rails replaced...really just trying to decide if I continue with the car or sell it now while it looks really good and possibly look for something else. And you can see there is rust on the outside of the rails.

          Originally posted by 604JD View Post
          jeez you sold your 08 STI for this thing?....I know you Americans are all giddy about getting the skylines but I hope you didn't end up paying a lot for your car! Sounds like you had to dump some money into already after the accident, and the damage underneath doesn't look that great either.

          I wish you the best with your build man, when our 15 year rule came along in Canada I was one of the early owners of a 1989 GTR....lets just say there was happy days, and there was sad days lol
          You have to consider where I live STi/WRX's are a dime a dozen here...not really something special unless you do a huge build. And luckly I did not have to pay anything after the accident! Everything was covered by insurance and I helped find parts cheaper than what the insurance adjuster found to cover painting the entire car.
          Last edited by grapejuice; 01-23-2015, 11:20 AM.

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          • #20
            I have one big dent under the drivers seat in my rail...... Didn't see it untill after I had the car bought. Feel your worries, but it's still straight and it's not a race car lol just for me to enjoy. Maybe one of these days I may try and pull it or weld in a piece but for now it's fine!
            Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

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            • #21
              I live in Vancouver, its the show off your car place to be lol....WRX STI's all over. Personally I would of never sold a 08 STI for a 1989 GTS-T. Heck I owned a 2009 WRX STI for a year and half, I ONLY sold that car because the gas mileage was hurting my commute.

              Take this advice from someone very experienced in skylines and RHD vehicles, don't pay the marked up prices for the skylines you can have over there in the states now. The cars are 25 years old, most are beat on, broken and abused.

              If you do sell the current one you have, make sure the next one is bought cheap at auction in Japan. Don't waste your time buying from Canada....I live here and Im saying that. Do your homework, even find a reputable broker from Japan, or travel there yourself and pick out your car in person.

              Call me harsh, but I don't want to see owners like yourself in the states paying an arm and a leg for a car that has likely put its previous owner in debt, and the owner before that in debt....its a vicious cycle with these cars.

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              • #22
                I actually bought this car here in Colorado, car already had a title so it was easy. I don't feel like I paid too much for it considering I did buy it before the 25 year rule came into play, and I was able to sell my STi and buy this and a daily. I do hear what you are saying and am willing to admit that I should have done a little more thinking/research before getting it...looking back now I definitely wish I waited and looked for a gtr. I just got bit by the Skyline bug and being able to see it in person, drive it and purchase so easy that I kind of blinded my self a little. But I don't regret the purchase, the person I bought it from put in a lot of work so mechanically the car runs great for a 25 year old car.

                It's just a tough call, I've put some work in on the car and already spent the money but yes, do I want to keep spending the money on it knowing what's under the beautiful new paint job. And now with the 25 year in place I could take my time and find something better.

                Put the questions out here so I can talk it over with people that know the car....so this is helping
                Last edited by grapejuice; 01-26-2015, 12:36 PM.

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                • #23
                  Well I've pretty much decided to keep going with this car, I just don't feel I can get enough money out of it now so that I can get into a GTR w/out spending a lot more money on top of losing everything I've done so far.

                  Supposed to have good weather this weekend so that I can get to my friends shop and get the few parts installed I've been sitting on for a while, new hanger bearing because mine is trashed and putting sway bars on since the car didn't come with any.

                  Next I can finally get to the motor and make it a little faster...question is what is the best path? Just do a turbo or maybe a RB25? not sure yet, been doing a little reading on here.

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                  • #24
                    I know nothing about rb20/25 and even very little about gtst as a platform. I'm probably entirely uninformed on the GTR which is the platform I'm playing with.

                    That said rb25 is from what i've read on forums/facebook the way to go. Theres no sense tossing money at an rb20 as it will just never satisfy. I say if you're on a budget buy parts that are compatible with both engines. Satisfy the desire to go faster for a while with that and when the time and money comes get an rb25 and do the swap right.

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                    • #25
                      It's always been kind of my plan to do a RB25 since there is more part support and just run the RB20 till it's done or I'm done with everything else I needed to do first on the car, which I am almost at that point. But yeah definitely do the swap right, re-fresh the 25 before it goes in.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by grapejuice View Post
                        Next I can finally get to the motor and make it a little faster...question is what is the best path? Just do a turbo or maybe a RB25? not sure yet, been doing a little reading on here.
                        Depends on budget and what you want hp wise.

                        With mild boost up mods a RB20DET can produce around 330hp at 1 bar (might be able to get 10hp more with cam timing changes at same boost level). With similar mods a RB25DET will produce 350hp and more if push the tune with stock turbo at something like 11-12psi.

                        The big difference is more hp and torque with RB25DET. If used to torque, hp of V8's a RB25DET might be better.
                        RESPONSE MONSTER

                        The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                        • #27
                          Got to do a little work this weekend, replaced the hanger bearing and went to put on the sway bars I got but missing parts on both ends...missing the front mounts and need one rear end link. But it was nice to at least get the car out of the garage and drive it since the weather is so nice.


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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Skym View Post
                            Depends on budget and what you want hp wise.

                            With mild boost up mods a RB20DET can produce around 330hp at 1 bar (might be able to get 10hp more with cam timing changes at same boost level). With similar mods a RB25DET will produce 350hp and more if push the tune with stock turbo at something like 11-12psi.

                            The big difference is more hp and torque with RB25DET. If used to torque, hp of V8's a RB25DET might be better.
                            I would like to be over 300hp for sure, I wouldn't say I have a huge budget but enough to build something reasonable. Definitely be a next winter project so just trying to start planning and saving. My RB20 seems fine but who really knows without taking it apart.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by grapejuice View Post
                              I would like to be over 300hp for sure, I wouldn't say I have a huge budget but enough to build something reasonable. Definitely be a next winter project so just trying to start planning and saving. My RB20 seems fine but who really knows without taking it apart.
                              There most likely will be wear on the crank oilpump drive to oilpump if has bounced of the rev limiter in the past and most likely drops compression (worth doing a compression test before any mods are done) due to age / km travelled, how car is driven.

                              Also those figures are at the engine.

                              This R32 GTS-T Targa Rally car has a boosted up RB20DET (330hp at engine with 1 bar) and looks similar to your car -


                              Thanks to Specialised Driving Services for allowing us to try out this fantastic in-car camera system.


                              It has basic rollcage, racing suspension, semi slicks and still has HICAS. The engine is boosted up with stock injectors, adjustable FPR, aftermarket fuel pump, PowerFC ECU + boost control solenoid, Z32 AFM + Z32 AFM plug/ pigtail, 3" exhaust from stock turbo, stock GTR FMIC (also clutch upgrade). Basic but works in Targa where there's a restriction on mods allowed and isn't expensive to do and fun to drive on racetrack for trackdays.

                              It didn't have an a engine oilcooler and the engine eventually failed (bearings) after alot of laps due to high oil temps. As long as keep oil temps under control it should last for a while.
                              Last edited by Skym; 03-10-2015, 03:37 AM.
                              RESPONSE MONSTER

                              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                              • #30
                                Nice! looks/sounds good Skym. I'll definitely do a compression test on my RB20 before I do anything. I don't know much history on it, I know that it was someone's track car in Canada but I also know the motor has been out since the sub frame was painted gold...so who knows if it's the original motor or not.

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