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Before you undo everything make sure you are getting fuel to the rail. Remove a fuel line maybe around the filter if it is easy, put line into a bottle or something and crank it, just to make sure you have fuel up to the injectors. If you have been cranking for like 20sec the plugs should be soaked in fuel if it was a spark issue.
As long as the resistance is similar across all the injector and none of them read overload. Also you won't hear them ticking unless you are using a stethescope.
Just think of how much quicker you will be the second time around.
LOL I do have a stethoscope actually LOL....Hmmmm....Go Nursing! Ill try again using that, but IIRC they click loud enough to be audible without using it no?
LOL. Anyways, there is fuel to the rail. I think I may have solved the problem, or at least figured it out. These are supposed to be 10W10ohm resistors I bought. Now, upon testing them with my multimeter, I found that at 20ohm resistance mode, it registers as 1 on the left of the LCD. I switch the knob to 200 and still says 1 on the left of the screen, but the decimal moves. I then switch it to 200K, the decimal moves and this time it reads 10. Now my understanding of this is that it is 10,000ohm of resistance...which obviously isnt what is needed.
On them, the say, 10w10KJ.....but I remember the packaging saying 10W10ohm...
Where else could I find these resistors locally, like a nationwide store or soemthing? Or what type of store would carry these so I can wire 'em up tommorow and see
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Ok....still wont start....rewired everything with the correct resistors, and still not gettin any gas. Tried both stock and chipped ECU.
Now....I really dont feel like swappin injectors again because its a pain in the ass....is there a way to test the ECUs becuase if its not the ECU, its the injectors.
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Why wont these spark plugs start smelling like gas!!!!
Try starting fluid. If is purely a fuel delivery issue it should fire and die. If it doesn't, you have fuel/spark problem, timing problem or a major engine problem. If it doesn't fire and your are confident that there should be know reason for internal engine damage look for unplugged/damaged sensors or back to the ecu.
If you know somebody else with the same engine, close year and if they are willing you could try your ecu in there car.
Well I cant just use any ECU with the gTR injectors. I havent officially confirmed theres spark, but I made no changes to that system, nor the CAS so I assume in the 4 months its been sittin there it hasnt changed. I will tommorow remove the rad and CAS and check for spark and injector clicking.
I would think that a stock ecu would at least start a car with bigger injectors, but i may very well be wrong.
It is important to know if you have spark or not. If you don't injectors are not an issue, if you didn't touch the ignition system directly some sensor could still be unplugged. Checked all your fuses?
OK im in the garage right now, I just pulled the rad and CAS and twisted her with the plug out and grounded. To no surprise, I have a spark!!! I also hear the fuel pump primiing and can feel the pulse when the pump kicks in the the FPR.....NO INJECTOR CLICKING.....
I think the injectors I bought dont work. I bought them from Avery, he seems like a good guy and is on SON and other forums as well. However, I dont think he actually said whether or not they actually worked.
At 9:00pm EST I Plan to pull out the GTR injectors and resistors and throw the stockers back in since they still have thier respective O-rings on and test with the stock ECU again. It is currently 8:10pm EST so hopefully I get an answer or something by then!
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Thanks
you should be able to read your voltage by putting one terminal on the one side of the resiter and the negative terminal to the other side. that will tell you the voltage drop across just the resister.
If you take it from each side to ground and subtract the 2 it owuld have the same effect, but take you 1 extra step. Not including the math. And with how bad at math I am, if I can avoid it, i will!
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