Oil flow and warmup routine

[Skym]

I was wondering if anybody has timed how long the oil takes to get from oilpump to turbo's, etc, when engine is cold and hot (thinner, thicker oil). Some say 10sec and some say 30sec.

Also I was looking at engine diagrams of other cars engines and oilpressure is taken between oilpump, oilfilter. So what the oilpressure gauge shows, probably doesn't mean engine is fully lubed.

With warmup routine (opinions vary), some wait till oil pressure is up and then drive car -

http://www.econofix.com/QCOLDPRB.html

I remember a car manufacturer (might have been BMW or Mercedes) have preset revlimits in red on revcounter that disappear as engine warmsup.

The routine I use on my car (my mates use the same routine) is to warm car up in stages. Like warm engine up on the spot until half way on water temp gauge (around 9 minutes), then drive to warm up tranny, diffhead, etc. I've had no problems doing that way. I've seen racecars (on and off airjacks), warmed up using a similar warmup routine.

I'm interested in what your views/opinions are on oilflow, warm up routine.

[kelaog]

Honestly the best way to warm up a car is maybe wait 10 seconds for the oil to flow through the engine, drive gently and stay out of boost until the tstat needle moves. Then boost a little and that should warm up the car. As long as you're using a properly weighted oil for the season you shouldn't have a problem. I rarely let my cars sit more than 1 minute after a cold start. Just 10-20 seconds should be plenty of time to oil the head/turbos.

Letting it sit isn't exactly good for the engine. Just wares down your piston rings. =/

I was wondering if anybody has timed how long the oil takes to get from oilpump to turbo's, etc, when engine is cold and hot (thinner, thicker oil). Some say 10sec and some say 30sec.

Also I was looking at engine diagrams of other cars engines and oilpressure is taken between oilpump, oilfilter. So what the oilpressure gauge shows, probably doesn't mean engine is fully lubed.

With warmup routine (opinions vary), some wait till oil pressure is up and then drive car -

http://www.econofix.com/QCOLDPRB.html

I remember a car manufacturer (might have been BMW or Mercedes) have preset revlimits in red on revcounter that disappear as engine warmsup.

The routine I use on my car (my mates use the same routine) is to warm car up in stages. Like warm engine up on the spot until half way on water temp gauge (around 9 minutes), then drive to warm up tranny, diffhead, etc. I've had no problems doing that way. I've seen racecars (on and off airjacks), warmed up using a similar warmup routine.

I'm interested in what your views/opinions are on oilflow, warm up routine.

[love_boost]

depending on the temperature but usually allow around 30 seconds to a minute of idleing then i drive gently and stay out of boost until it is at aperating temp.

i think it is just a matter of personal opinion. when winter driving i let my car run 10 or so minutes before driving it.

[kelaog]

haha yeah ,sorry I live in BC. If I lived somewhere where it was -30 I would probably let it idle a bit longer as that oil is gonna be thick!

Like I said, use a proper weight oil for your weather and drive it gently. These aren't race cars so no need to treat them like one :P

depending on the temperature but usually allow around 30 seconds to a minute of idleing then i drive gently and stay out of boost until it is at aperating temp.

i think it is just a matter of personal opinion. when winter driving i let my car run 10 or so minutes before driving it.

[Skym]

Thank you for sharing your views/opinions.

I was thinking that engine is reving above preset high idle that is controlled by ECU if you drive car. Higher rpm's = more damage/wear, especially when piston hasn't expanded to seal cylinder. That's what was interesting about a car manufacturer using a revlimit that raises as engine warmsup.

I read one opinion that said 1/4 on temp gauge is enough temperature for cast pistons to expand and seal cylinder.

[kelaog]

That would depend on the scale of the gauge.

1/4 gauge on a gtr could be 40 degrees but on an audi be 80.

The engine also retards and advances timing depending on temperature remember. You're right about the piston /ring expanding into the seat properly. That's why I suggest boosting hard until you've reached operating temperature. But to warm it up, drive it lightly.

Thank you for sharing your views/opinions.

I was thinking that engine is reving above preset high idle that is controlled by ECU if you drive car. Higher rpm's = more damage/wear, especially when piston hasn't expanded to seal cylinder. That's what was interesting about a car manufacturer using a revlimit that raises as engine warmsup.

I read one opinion that said 1/4 on temp gauge is enough temperature for cast pistons to expand and seal cylinder.

[Andrewc]

Excessive idling will just damage your piston rings anyways.
When the car is cold stay low on the rpm's, and out of the boost.
Driving gently is a much better way to warm up an engine/drivetrain than letting it sit and idle.

This differs between cars/temperatures obviously but as a general rule excessive idling = not good.

[BrianV8]

here is a tangent to the question, wondering if anyone else has this issue. I have my car tuned to a leaner factor to get the most amount of power possible. When the car is cold it runs so lean it bogs, and as soon at it hits 160 degrees and the thermostat opens its like a switch flicks and the fuel and power comes back. I always thought a cold motor would run rich not lean?

[love_boost]

it most likeley is running rich. mine bogs to when it is cold.
but i think it is more the incorrect timing. i think if you advance the base timing a few degrees it will get rid of the cold engine bog.

[Skym]

Warmup tables work off coolant temperature.

I guess there's other things to take into account when engine is warming up, like oil is not lubricating properly until oil is up to operating temperature. Bearings, piston rings could be affected due to oil being not up to temperature with anything above normal warmup idle rpm. Also reving engine when cold could affect oilpump drive tolerences.

There were TV adverts on oil not lubricating until it's up to operating temperature and how not being up to operating temperature can damage engine parts.

[BrianV8]

yeah i agree i'd never bag on a cold motor.

And no mine is definalty going lean, air fuels barely display on my narrow band and egt's shoot through the roof until it hits that magic 160 degrees then it richens up, drives good, egt's fall back to normal.

[nissanconvert]

the above is common on numerous skylines dont know if a way around it

[love_boost]

the above is common on numerous skylines dont know if a way around it

moving the base timing around can take that away, i think retarding it takes that away, i played around with it and thats what happened. no more bog but now i changed it back and got the bog, no one i know has that problem either

[BrianV8]

yeah just curious, motor is done anyways couple months i'll have a healthy one going in and finally make some big power numbers.

[Skym]

Cold start, etc settings are usually wrong when engine is modded.