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  • Stalling is becoming a big problem

    Hey, i posted a little while ago about my car having some stalling problems, i have a 1993 R33 GTS-T , ive been told that the cause of my problem is the aftermarket HKS BOV, anyone know what i need to do to fix this or even a temporary fix or any help at all would be greatly apreciated as this stalling is causing me a lot of grief. thanks

  • #2
    For your stalling problem there are 2 ways to fix it with out going back to recirc
    1/ raise your idle by 100 RPM, by adjusting the throttle cable
    2/ HKS EIDS http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175

    my car used to stall all the time, I raised the idle a bit and it has not stalled once since then

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    • #3
      you can run blow trough set-up, put the maf near the intake manifold, and run the bov near the turbo outlet, whis willmake the maf read the amount of air in the piping and not before the turbo, since you are not recirculatin ganymore, this will give you so much more drivability and a quicker response.

      this is what i am doing on my big turbo rb20det.
      Alexandre Canuel
      PERRY AUTO LAVAL
      PERFORMANCE & RACE- OEM
      REPLACEMENT
      450 662 8886

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      • #4
        Ok. Well, you can usually get rid of the problem with a re-tune. I've never heard of raising the idle through the throttle cable, but you can do it through the idle adjust screw. There's a great "how-to" in the tech section.

        What exactly are the symptoms of your stalling? When does it happen and under what conditions. A lot of the time, a small boost leak can even be the problem.
        -Josh

        1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
        1990 Skyline GTS-R

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        • #5
          i had a '' cut-out'' problem for a while after doing AIC,HKS KNOCKOFF BOV and adding an intake filter.....first my car would cut out anytime no matter how i was driving it so i changed my bran new maf for sum beaten up cleaned and re-saudered one ....fixed part of the problem.....but now my car stalls coming to a stop sign OR at idle i really think cleaning the intake and throttle might solve the stalling if not BOV adjustment might be the issue....keeps us posted....still havent figured my stalling/cut-out issue lol!

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          • #6
            my stalling is still an issue, i cleaned the MAF and didn't seem to do anything, it stalls when im slowing down for a stop sign, red light, or even just to turn a corner. It happens most often however when i give it a little gas and the turbo has a chance to spool up. Its starting to really bug me and yeah lol i really appreciate any help you guys can give me and i appreciate the help you've been giving me already lol thanks again

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            • #7
              pull all the plugs and check the condition of them, if they are all dark means your running rich, which would mean a boost leak, also check all over for a boost leak first.

              money says its your bov once you push in the clutch does it normally shut off?

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              • #8
                Check out the stickies. There's a great post on checking for boost leaks (great if you just installed the new BOV. Who knows right?), checking the TPS, and some other general cleaning and maintenance things you can do for free. Also you should be looking into a retune. Not saying your BOV isn't causing all the problems, but it's good to get the free and easy stuff outta the way first.
                -Josh

                1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
                1990 Skyline GTS-R

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                • #9
                  I just got used to keeping it alive by bleeping the throttle lightly when coming to a stop.

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                  • #10
                    is your car an automatic? (mine is an auto and i have the same issue. but like M13, i have just got used to heeping the rpms up)


                    also, i've read somewhere that it is an issue of the engine getting too much air from the free-flowing pod filter. when your RPMs are low (coming to a stop, etc) and you let off the throttle, the fuel is significantly reduced, but your filter is still sucking air. Dont believe me? let your car run and stand by the pod filter when someone else turns your car off. you will hear it still sucking air.

                    anyway, ive heard the fix is to adjust the throttle idle screw a tad.

                    (ps. i have a HKS SSQV vented to atmosphere and i have never had issued with stalling when it blows.)
                    1966 Pontiac Beaumont | 1972 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-X | 1990 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type-M
                    1991 Toyota Celsior C-Type Supercharged | 1991 Toyota Cressida | 2008 GMC Acadia

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                    • #11
                      no mines a standard transmission, and I've tried adjusting the idle screw a tad and still stalls, I've been getting better at noticing when the rpm's drop and i quickly give it a tap of gas to bring it back to life, but id rather not have to watch and do that.. lol

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                      • #12
                        im pretty sure its ur maf, i had the same problem. It was a headache looking in wats wrong XD if u can start up ur car np then i dont think its fuel related but if u have a problem while ur driving and its stalls or stalls in idle im pretty sure itsthe maf, i replaced my maf with a used one and never had a problem since =D but try switching the maf if it doesnt work well my bad =(

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                        • #13
                          If revs drop below idle rpm and don't recover, then TPS is not adjusted to touch idle contact / pin inside TPS or is faulty (low voltages). Turning aircon, etc on and driving around on flat ground (carpark), or going up a fairly steep hill and suddenly stopping can confirm if TPS is the cause of the rpm needle dropping below idle rpm and not recovering.

                          When TPS gets older or you release throttle quickly, thrash car (foot to the floor), etc, wears the track on circuit board out quicker and bends the idle, WOT pins inside TPS. I've been through 2x TPS on my cars engine. It's one of those routine maintenance parts that should be done at same time (every 40,000k-60,000km) as o2 sensor. Nissan dumped the TPS and went with fly by wire on newer Nissan's.

                          When MAF fails (first thing that failed on my car), engine revs at 1500rpm when engine is warm and ECU has MAF error code. But MAF sensor could be dirty due to oil based filter element or MAF has bad solders inside square box on MAF, which could cause ECU to select wrong load cell on fuel, ignition maps.

                          When ignition module fails the engine cuts out after 10 minutes of driving and won't start for another 10 minutes or so (ignition module cools down).

                          When CAS fails engine can randomly stall and have CAS error code on ECU. Also engine can be harder to start when cold or hot.

                          Atmospherically vented BOV is another that can cause of stalling with MAF equipped engine. But tightening BOV enough can sometimes fix the problem, but introduce flutterdump (compressor surge) problems.
                          RESPONSE MONSTER

                          The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                          • #14
                            where can someone get a replacement TPS?
                            1966 Pontiac Beaumont | 1972 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-X | 1990 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type-M
                            1991 Toyota Celsior C-Type Supercharged | 1991 Toyota Cressida | 2008 GMC Acadia

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                            • #15
                              Nissan.

                              If you wanted a fly by wire setup to replace TPS, I think it was Motec M600 ECU that has fly by wire feature, but isn't cheap.
                              RESPONSE MONSTER

                              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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