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How to; Install Greddy Profec B Spec II in an R32 GTSt

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  • How to; Install Greddy Profec B Spec II in an R32 GTSt

    This is a much more simplified version of Greddy's online manual, or Greddy's instruction manual that comes with the unit.

    Difficulty ; if you have the user manual and have no real understanding of your stock turbo system, difficult.. Otherwise this should really help cut down time!

    Tools;
    Wire cutters or scissors > for cutting the hose
    Jubilee clamps or zip ties > to make sure nothing pops off in the future!
    Pliers
    10mm socket or spanner > to place unit on the steering pump reservoir bracket
    Box knife or exacto blade > to splice rubber grommet on firewall
    1 3/16th's (4.7mm) hose fitting > Helps speed the process up

    Here are the contents of the box.



    Step 1.
    -Locate FPR (Circled GREEN in photo)
    -Locate the VAC hose from the FPR to the Intake Plenum and install the 3 way splitter. (Circled RED in photo)
    -Add the LONGEST hose to the 3rd nipple and zip tie each end TIGHT.
    -Ensure there are no restrictions in the tubing, ie crimps or folds.



    Step 2.
    -On the newly added line, splice in your Filter (Circled GREEN)
    -Make sure it's on right! (Black o-ring towards unit)



    Step 3. *Will be easier if you remove your airfilter/airbox and MAF to get to actuator*
    -Locate your wastegate actuator (Circled GREEN)
    -Locate the hose at the bottom. (Circled RED)
    This hose runs from the actuator to the compressor housing.
    -Use your pliers to bend off the clamp and pull the hose off the ACTUATOR.
    -Leave the hose attached to your compressor housing.



    Step 4.
    -Take your hose fitting (3/16th's, 4.7mm) and put it in this hose and clamp it.
    -Take the shorter, 6mm hose and tap it onto this fitting and clamp it. DONT CUT IT YET




    Hard to see but simply, it was the hose on the actuator, spliced to a new hose.

    Step 5.
    -Mount your solenoid -Easiest place is on the steering pump reservoir bracket and its cushioned with rubber mounts so the given mounting bolt is no longer needed.
    -Size up the tubing that you just fitted to see how much you need to cut off.

    ***REMEMBER, THIS TUBE GOES TO THE 'NO' on the solenoid****
    Install on 'NO' fitting





    Step 6.
    -Take remainder of hose (Should be quite a bit)
    -Fit this hose the the Actuator nipple at the bottom where you firstly removed the hose to the compressor housing. (Circled RED)
    -This part is tough; put some spit on your finger tips and rub it on the nipple (LOL) itll make the hose slide on slightly easier.
    -Zip tie/clamp this nice and snug and run the hose up to the solenoid

    ***REMEMBER, THIS TUBE GOES TO THE 'COM' on the solenoid****
    Install (cut if you need to shorten it) on the 'COM' fitting




    Step 7.
    -Now that the hard part is done, reinstall your maf and airfilter before carrying on. Trust me, do it lol.

    Step 8. - running the tubing / wiring inside the cabin
    -Firstly, locate the rubber grommet on the passenger side firewall
    -Then go inside the passenger foot well and locate it there as well
    -Use your exacto or blade and carefuly make an incision on the grommet large enough to pass your Vac tube and wiring looms.
    -Poke a screw driver through from the inside and see where it is on the outside.
    -Take your wiring (small white connector goes through the firewall! not the black one) and put it in from the outside, pushing it, and the screwdriver back through as a guide. If it gets a lil jammed up, push it with a flat blade, CAREFULY, from the outside and through the grommet.
    -Keep checking you dont damage the wires or the connector.




    Step 9.
    -Do the same with the Vac tube.

    Step 10.
    -Take up the slack from the engine bay and push the wiring under the center console (easily slides under the vents)

    Step 11.
    -Find a good place to mount your Greddy unit
    -I chose here, after seeing a member mount one there as well. Really easy to read without having the steering wheel in the way, also easy to select between Hi/Lo settings without the need of a remote switch. Plenty of room in behind to mount it, so no worries for space.
    (wish i did a write up for this )

    **-If you want to mount here, simply remove the trim and pop off the two blank off caps (Rectangle things that should have buttons in them) and then dremel off the center ribbing then sand down. It fits PERFECTLY snug.**



    Step 12.
    -Run the POWER and GROUND for your unit.
    -No pics, but i used a pretty nifty idea...

    Power goes to cigarette lighter (orange wire) and ground goes to shifter mount bolt. Power to cigarette lighter (at least in my case) is ran by turning on headlights (either DRL or running lights). So now whenever i turn my headlights on which illuminates my dash, it illuminates my Profec unit too looks like it was always meant to be there!

    Step 13.
    -Install wiring to unit and Vac tube to unit.

    Voila, it's now installed and ready for operation..

    ...... But before operation, please read the following to save yourself some grief..



    Continue to next POST!
    Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
    www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
    Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
    Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

  • #2
    Taken from; http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how...b-spec-ii.html

    >>>Definitions and things you need to know before you start:

    SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).

    GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.

    START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).

    WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).

    LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower by when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO 4%.

    PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set knob until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.

    LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.

    Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.

    Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.

    Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.

    The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:

    1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.

    2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.



    The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
    1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
    2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
    3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
    4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
    5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
    6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
    7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
    8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
    9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
    10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
    11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.

    Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.
    <<<<

    Enjoy!
    Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
    www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
    Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
    Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Briliant post. I remeber trying to go off pics and instructions on a mazda forum when I did mine. This is MUCH better. Thanks for the work nelsonmxmarc!
      -Josh

      1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
      1990 Skyline GTS-R

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks man! Just tryin' to pay it back for all the tips and tricks i've learned here in the last month or so.

        And i know what mazda forum you're talking about! LOL i used the same one!

        Feel free to PM me anyone, for further info or pics / details!
        Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
        www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
        Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
        Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

        Comment


        • #5
          i have a SARD TRIGGER EBC. it has "IN" and "OUT" fittings, not "ON" and "COM". the unit works when turned off (lol) and is at stock boost. when tured on, and is set to desired boost level, the boost goes beyond the set level when driving.

          any thoughts?
          1966 Pontiac Beaumont | 1972 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-X | 1990 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type-M
          1991 Toyota Celsior C-Type Supercharged | 1991 Toyota Cressida | 2008 GMC Acadia

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          • #6
            Great DIY Marc, helped me out for today's install.

            Pic of the "NO" hose

            I had to use a small hose clamp on the hose going to the compressor housing
            Regards,
            Ken.

            Bayside Blue '89 HCR32 RB22 "MORE POWA"
            http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-project-cars/49160-kens-1989-babyzilla.html
            Blue '14 Mazda CX-5 - GF's Grocery Getter
            White '10 Mazda 3 - Daily Driver

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