Boost control problem!

[mistercrow]

Hello boys! I have a little problem with my boost controler i just installed. Ill explain in details what i did to make it simple.

Frist of all, I own a R32 GTS-T Type m, with the RB20det engine. I recently baught off RHDjapan a HKS Evc-s boost control and Splitfire coilpacks, that I installed at the same time.

The car was going #1 before installations and after the problem that occured was:

when i started the engine, my RPM was very high 2000 RPM up from 750-850 originally at idle speed. So i told my self, heh new parts gonna give it a min or two to set up, but after id say about 50 seconds, i got a rpm drop to 1000, then back up, the back down to 1000, then back up all of these up and downs had about 2-3 seconds inbetween each. I gave it a little gaz to see what would happen, braught the rpm from 2000 to 2200 and the car acted as if it was on a launch control, meaning that the rpm was going up and down +/- 100. *all tests where while car is on neutral*

How i plugged the boost controler: I cut the hose that was going from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold(if we can say) and put a splice in between with a air filter, that goes to the HKS boost sensor. Second thing i did was unplug the wastegate hose, put a piece to put 2 hoses together in place, added a hose that went from the original wastegate hose to the "NO" solenoid enterance (meaning that the compressor hose goes to the "NO" enterence). At the "com" solenoid nipple there is a hose that starts there and ends at the actuator.

I though it coulda been a vacuum leak , searched and found nothing, if you guys still think its a vacuum leak after reading my post tell me, ill plug the smoke machine.

I have also 2 little questions:
1- The NC solenoid hole, do i have to take the cap off or keep it clugged?
2- Could it be my splitfires that arent connected to spark plug properly? (doubt that one but might as well ask)

Please help me out.

[bobbo]

I didn't fully read your story but cutting the hose to the FPR is a big NO NO.

[BrianV8]

i have that same controller, and no boost controller will give you idles issues, you have another problem. The boost controller should be hooked to a boost only source. so vac leak impossible. No reason to be touch the fpr

[mistercrow]

then where would you take your source for the Boost sensor? And if my Boost control is plugged properly what other problem could it be?

[BrianV8]

your boost only source has to come from anywhere after the turbo and before the throttle body. Easy way i did it is just before the outlet of the turbo drill and tap a hole and put a nipple on it. Then your done boost only source

[mistercrow]

If you check here: http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech...-r32-gtst.html The second picture, its exactly there that i took my boost source, like it said in the HKS manual (Surge tank to fuel pressure regulator)... if its not correct ill change the boost source like yo said, but any clues what could make the idle high like that? can the spitfire's have something to do in there?

[nelsonmxmarc]

Boost leak perhaps? Old hoses tend to leak slightly when you mess around with them, mine did as well when i did the install in the link mentioned above.

Another possibility is that you didnt replace the coil pack harness in the correct order, leading the cylinders to misfire which could be construed as an elevated or sporadic rpm fluctuation.

Another thing to check is the direction of your boost gauge air filter. There is usually a direction indicated. Make sure it's in the proper way!

If you want a hand i'm in montreal as well, could always meet up!

[mistercrow]

Simple question: Lets say for example we leave the boost control alone and go towards the Coil, what if, the coil's werent in perfect contact with the spark plugs, what would happen then? because it has to have something to do with either the boost control or the plugs, because about 20 mins before installing everything the car was running perfect? and i treid some tests earlyer today, unplugged the FPR to Surge tank splice and put a normal hose in there, still the idle was crappy, bypassed the solenoid (without undooing the piece that makes 2 hoses come together. can a leak from the turbine to wastegate create a high idle and can the leak be big enough?) My next step will be to put all hoses back to origin, and see whats up.. but before wasting another 2 hours and a half to take out the intake, take out the coils and blablabla, id like advice! thanks yall

[Skym]

Ignition timing advances slightly as engine rpm, amount of air engine intakes rises.

No vacuum feed to FPR makes fuel pressure rise around 7.1psi and result would be engine struggling to idle, miss, splutter as engine should run richer (pull FPR vacuum feed off while engine is idling to see what I mean). Engine should run rough at idle, even with mild exhaust upgrade, as factory runs engine rich at idle. You should plumb boost controller, map sensors, etc off BOV vacuum feed, not FPR vacuum feed.

Wastegate on back of turbo should be closed open at idle. Internal wastegate actuator bulb requires boost pressure from turbo's compressor housing or boost source on intakepiping between turbo, intercooler to overcome the spring inside internal wastegate actuator bulb which pushes on rod and opens wastegate on back of turbo. The spring inside wastegate actuator bulb pushes towards front of turbo.

My car has had wastegate open at idle due to faulty wastegate actuator bulb spring and engine just felt weaker at lower rpm's and idle was normal. Also wastegate hat on back of turbo rattled at idle.

Boost controller reduces the amount of air reaching internal actuator bulb which makes it easier for spring to keep wastegate on back of turbo shut and turbo produces more boost. Boost is air forced in on top of what engines sucks in, which is vacuum. Hence why its called forced induction.

If you have played with ignition earths, it might affect idle quality, make engine idle higher. Some devices have to be earthed to ignition barrell (when running a certain feature like o2sensor reading on a device like a turbotimer) or to chassis if not running that feature. Not sure about boost controller, but I would check the earths.

Also check that it isn't earthed to earths on idle valves, etc.