Bolt On Turbo

[Like_A_Sum_Bootay]

I'm pretty sure my stock rb20 turbo is on its way out so I'm looking to see if there is any easy bolt on turbos for the manifold and the downpipes that i can get that are worth upgrading from stock or if i should just rebuild/get a used stock turbo one till i can get a top mount turbo in the summer.

[Skym]

Short runner stock RB20DET exhaust manifold is best for boost response, low to mid hp gains. Longer runner exhaust manifold is best for mid to high hp gains with a little bit of loss of bottomend (suited to racetrack). If want better flow, port match stock exhaust manifold to ports on head, entry to turbo.

The rebuilt stock RB20 turbo's are called Hybrid turbo's. Stage 1 hybrid turbo is basically a non ballbearing VG30DET CHRA (Garrett TB03 CHRA) with machined stock RB20DET turbo compressor, exhaust housings. It uses parts from different turbo's, hence why it's called a Hybrid turbo. It's not exactly stock anymore.

Basic Stage 1 Hybrid turbo is good for around 360-380hp at 16psi with stock engine (higher figure is with adjustable camgears, Link ECU with map sensor). This turbo is very responsive after ECU is tuned to suit. Equal to HKS 25/30 in boost response.

Stage 2 Hybrid turbo has the same CHRA, exhaust wheel, but has a bigger T4E compressor wheel. It's said to surge and have to drive a certain way to avoid it due to exhaust housing A/R is a bit small. Should be good for around 400hp+.

The above turbo's look stock if you want a sleeper look to engine.

You could find a stock VG30DET turbo (Nissan Leopard, Nissan Gloria?) and use that, as the housings are similar (T3 exhaust housing), except VG30DET has a bigger exhaust housing A/R than RB20DET turbo. Later model VG30DET has a ballbearing version.

Also stock RB25DET turbo.

Ai-Reasearch? makes a T3 turbo that fits -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyEp5WHZu1E

What it drives like when drifting (has Tomei Poncams and I think cams are adjusted for more peak hp hence the lump in idle at 1:15+) -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKVqmzp1piQ

Other turbo's are Garrett GT2876R with T3 Ford exhaust housing, swinggate assembly. Or Garrett GT3076R which can be converted to external wastegate by changing exhaust housing.

Here's GT3076R turbo on a R32GTS-T in Canada with aftermarket exhaust manifold, etc -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_mibuiFSuk

Close to 400whp on I gather is pump gas. With Tomei Poncams or better fuel, easily over 400whp.

On racetrack -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ak1dJrSgJqo

[Like_A_Sum_Bootay]

Basic Stage 1 Hybrid turbo is good for around 360-380hp at 16psi with stock engine (higher figure is with adjustable camgears, Link ECU with map sensor). This turbo is very responsive after ECU is tuned to suit. Equal to HKS 25/30 in boost response.

Thats about what im looking for so how do i go about getting this done. Do i buy the other turbo and just swap out the parts or do i buy it already built?

[Tony-R32]

does the rb25det stock bolt right up?

[Skym]

You'll need for 360hp at engine (around 296rwhp) -

3" exhaust from turbo (including dumppipe)
Podfilter (Apexi or similar)
Nistune for stock ECU
550cc injectors (Deatschwerks - http://www.deatschwerks.com/skyline)
255lph fuelpump (Nismo, Walbro, Denso)
Z32AFM + Z32AFM plug (needs to be wired in)
Stock GTR FMIC or similar aftermarket FMIC
Boost controller (Blitz or HKS, Blitz if you can afford it or Gizzmo is a good cheap alternative)
Engine oilcooler

Send turbo off car or spare turbo to turbo rebuilder mentioned below. Turbo rebuilder changes CHRA (Centre Housing Rotating Assembly) to TB03 CHRA (I think it comes with new exhaust wheel) and fits new compressor wheel (balances CHRA). Then machines out stock compressor, exhaust housings to suit new compressor, exhaust wheels and fits them and then balances CHRA again to high rpm on bench.

Cost's roughly around $715 CAD downunder (might be cheaper in Canada). But is bolt on an uses stock intake piping, dump pipe, oilfeed, waterfeed, etc. To most it looks like a stock turbo unless you compare to stock turbo side by side and notice the wheels are bigger.

What you will notice is it reaches 0 on boost gauge at around 2500rpm and full boost of 12psi at 3500rpm (with podfilter, 3" exhaust from dumppipe, BOV mods). Peak power is at around 7500rpm (hits revlimiter) before ECU tune. Power at engine should be around 270hp at 12psi with those mods, stock ECU tune. That's up from 250hp at 12psi with intake, exhaust mods and stock ECU tune.

I think some use this place in Canada that builds hybrid turbo's -

http://www.cherryturbos.com/Hybrids.html

A/R is the Area of intake of say compressor housing / Radius of area where compressor wheel goes. By machining compressor housing to suit bigger compressor wheel your changing the A/R.

R33, R34 RB25DET turbo's bolt up. But need 90 degree elbow off R33, R34 R25DET turbo, as it's bigger internally with diameter than RB20 turbo 90 degree elbow. Not 100% sure, but I remember someone mentioning you need the water, oilfeed pipes from R33 RB25DET???

[craftz]

Whatever CHRA "Cherry Turbos" applies to your turbo he will try to supply you with appropriate fittings. The rb25 turbo that he did for me, the oil supply and drain fittings hooked up. Herman gave me the banjos for the coolant. I cut the rb20 banjos off and silver soldered the supplied ones on. Looks stock.

[dawgmode]

or just get a garret disco potato or a hks gt2540

[Nissan_Sean]

Garrett doesn't make any direct replacements for 20/25. HKS are 2000$ new. Rebuilding seems like best option.

Also, 25 turbos do bolt right up. No mods, you just need the compressor outlet pipe from any 25 turbo as skym mentioned. 25 turbo feels like a bit of an upgrade, still nothing crazy. NEO's definitley feel stronger than the reg 25.

Not many cheap upgrades as far as direct replace for these engines, those are your best options.

[dawgmode]

you just have to use a flange adapter and you would be good to go

[esh]

would it be better to get a hybrid turbo made from the stock rb20 turbo or from a rb25 turbo?

[Skym]

RB25DET stock turbo has a bigger compressor wheel (66mm on RB25 vs 59mm on RB20). That means a T4E compressor wheel (bigger) instead of the T3 60 trim is used in a hybrid RB25DET turbo. Hybrid RB25DET turbo can surge if you don't drive correctly (small exhaust housing A/R). Bigger A/R VG30DET turbo exhaust housing might help but lose the boost response.

For scary response, good boost response on RB20DET the hybrid RB20DET turbo is enough.

[Nissan_Sean]

Skym I've been looking for this info, can't find it anywhere. What is the turbine a/r and exducer bore of the 25 and neo25 turbo? I'm going to build a hybrid at cherry, I think a neo turbine would be better suited for the power I want.

Thanks for any info

[Skym]

RB25DET (R33?) Exhaust wheel 51x43 (same as RB20DET turbo)
RB25DET (R33?) .5 A/R exhaust housing (.4 A/R for RB20DET turbo)

I don't know the exhaust housing A/R for NEO RB25DET turbo.

[esh]

For scary response, good boost response on RB20DET the hybrid RB20DET turbo is enough.

This sounds like what I'm looking for

Skym you mentioned that the RB25 hybrid might suffer from compressor surge....would the rb20 hybrid suffer from the same thing, or would it be ok?

Thanks

[Skym]

It's like that on motorway in 3rd gear on and off throttle. That's with stock car + hybrid turbo + stock ECU retune. On road it felt normal (R32 I looked at before buying my car).

No, it's what I run on my car and is freaken responsive. Just lightly press throttle, car jumps forward quickly with not much effort and gets up to speed quickly at low rpm. At half throttle it's just wow. It's like stock acceleration but more violent (that's what response feels like on or off throttle).

Only time I have problems is when there's a airleak.