telling a rb20 turbo from a rb25

[nelsonmxmarc]

The picture amnash posted is an rb20 turbo which is branded 16v
S1 rb25 is branded 45v1 and uses a ceramic exhaust and steel turbine wheels.
S2 rb25 is branded 45v2 on the turbine housing and 4iu on the exhaust housings and uses ceramic exhaust wheel with a nylon compressor wheel.
Rb25 neo #1 is branded 45v2 on the turbine housing and op6 on the exhaust housing and uses ceramic exhaust wheel and a nylon compressor wheel. (same as a s2 rb25 turbo but with a bigger Exhaust housing).
Rb25 neo turbo #2 is branded Garret on the turbine housing and is steel exhaust and turbine wheels.
And if u happen to come accross one branded 45v4 that is a vg30det turbo which uses steel wheels also.
S1 and rb20: capable of 14psi safely
S2 and neo #1: capable of 12 psi due to the nylon wheel
Neo#2 and vg30det: capable of what ever u want throw at them I'd imagine due to steel wheels but don't know when they run out of effiency.
Hope that helps
-Ryan

Spot on.. Finally, now lets sticky THAT so people can stop asking what the difference is b/w S1/S2 etc.. It's been covered in a number of threads, 99% of which i wrote that exact information in but we keep disregarding it as a sticky or FAQ info.



Adam, that is an RB20 turbo.

[nelsonmxmarc]

ya it will be steel if its a rb25 neo turbo

Edit: just noticed there is a second page with this statement DOH! lol

No. This is NOT true. The only NEO turbo with a steel wheel is a garrett variant. These are on the late model GTT's.. I had a Neo, it was NOT steel wheel.

[Tony-R32]

Rb25 exhaust wheel is not steel...nevermind my comment on the rb25 neo turbo it's been clarified in the posts before this.

Further more you better hope it's a series one rb25 turbo if you plan on bumping up the boost, as the series 2 aren't good for more than 12psi.

As stated a billion times on this forum, running the rb20 trubo or any ceramic turbo between 14-16 psi for any period of time is not smart. I wouldn't go higher than 12 personally but thats my opinion.

This is all information i've read searching the same topic on this forum.

[beacher1B0]

Without using Housing #s. You can tell by the Compressor Outlet Elbow. They r different. Its hard to explain but Ill try.
A RB25 Comp Outlet Elbow has a indent on the forward most bolt. About 3/4 inch deep. Just enough to get a socket on the bolt. The RB20 turbo has a indent that is hardly there.
Also, RB20 turbo has a boost/vacuum nipple on the Comp Housing of the turbo, R33 S1/S2 do not have a nipple on the housing or elbow(unless someone put one in), R34 Neo has the nipple on the Compressor Outlet Elbow.

[Oakville]

whenever I see this user post, I open the thread just to read his post. good for a lol

[Skym]

From what I can remember from what I was told, 16V2 for example is basically a part number Nissan use to find out what engine turbo is related to and year when it was fitted to that engine. The V2, V3, etc refers to years from start of production for say a R31, R32, R33, etc. Although could never get my head around what the 45, 16 means.

[redrocket]

you want a stock rb turbo to last? keep it under 14psi and dont peak it every time you drive. invest in an aftermarket turbo if you want reliability and to run higher psi. your buddys lucky he isnt picking exhaust wheel peices out of his cat yet. p.s. dunk your exhaust wrapped elbow in some warm water to shell out that wrap.

[trickey1991]

wish i had a "like" button ahah

whenever I see this user post, I open the thread just to read his post. good for a lol

[BongRips]

I believe you're right about it being ceramic. All RB motor's turbos are ceramic.