Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Car wont start!!?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Car wont start!!?

    Today I was driving around, and I hit a bump. Not even a huge one, and right after the car turned off. I thought at first it was the battery disconnecting, so I pulled over. After that it wouldn't start again.

    The car cranks, but will not start..... Im thinking it has something to do with fuel. But have no idea where to start looking.... Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Try checking fuel pump fuse, and CAS connectors, if it is loose it will crank but not start. Good luck!

    Comment


    • #3
      Alright, so the car starts now. But it is running rich (around 10.4 on AEM wideband). The engine smelled like gas when I turned it on today. Friend said it could be leaky injector, but I was wondering if it could be anything else?

      Thanks

      Comment


      • #4
        Stock ECU can go into a safe mode where it runs rich, etc. I think it does this when the EPROM chip gets dislodged. You'll know when it's in this mode, as Consult doesn't work.

        Check that ECU plug and other plugs are seated correctly.
        Last edited by Skym; 05-09-2011, 08:16 AM.
        RESPONSE MONSTER

        The most epic signature ever "epic".

        Comment


        • #5
          Ty Skym. Always so helpful!

          Comment


          • #6
            Alright, car is stilling running rough. Havent been driving it, very high a/f ratio (around 10.2/3). I changed the plugs, checked ECU, and nothing.

            Could my ECU be possibly damaged?

            Comment


            • #7
              try cleaning your maf and your aac valve
              Check out Top Tier Imports. Sign up today! http://www.toptierimports.com
              http://www.youtube.com/user/TopTierImports?feature=mhee

              Comment


              • #8
                Don't know without looking at it. All I and others can do is suggest what it might be and you check, tick it off the list.

                If there's airleaks behind MAF (crack in rubber piping inbetween ribs or under intake hose clamp, loose intake hoseclamp) the engine can start stuttering.

                Can unplug MAF to check MAF with stock ECU (can idle, rev up to I think was 2500rpm without it) and if problem disappears you have found the problem. But would need to clear MAF error code on ECU by unplugging battery, stomping on brakes, etc after you plug MAF back in.
                Last edited by Skym; 05-13-2011, 08:24 PM.
                RESPONSE MONSTER

                The most epic signature ever "epic".

                Comment


                • #9
                  So just unplug the maf and see if it will properly rev up to 2500 rpm? if not then its a maf problem?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Unplugging MAF before starting engine and then starting engine should be more than enough to see if it's a cause of the problem (need to clear MAF error code afterwards). If you unplug MAF while engine is running, engine should stall.
                    RESPONSE MONSTER

                    The most epic signature ever "epic".

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Car wouldnt even start with the MAF unplugged. Kind of confused, I checked my O2 sensor and its covered in carbon and looks to be the stock one, could it maybe to bad? How about coolant temp sensor?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That's odd. Can start engine without o2 sensor, MAF plugged in. I think TPS, coolant temp sensor, knock sensors are the other sensors you can start engine without being plugged in (haven't tried TPS, etc, but heard you can).

                        Have you checked voltage at battery, as it sounds like it might be too low. When battery is low on voltage, it can crank but engine won't start and then eventually get a beep sound from dash (if the beeper hasn't been removed), warning light on dash (I think it was HICAS warning light) saying there's not enough voltage. Change battery, problem solved. From what I can remember, it does this when voltage is below 12 volts.
                        Last edited by Skym; 05-19-2011, 12:09 AM.
                        RESPONSE MONSTER

                        The most epic signature ever "epic".

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Did you check for vaccum leaks?

                          I dont know the setup of the RB20 specifically, but your issue would sound like a blown off intercooler piping on an RB26.
                          R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
                          http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Having the same issue guys. Car died last night outside my house. Symptoms were quite similar to if you ran out of gas. Car stayed on long enough for me to make it onto the driveway.

                            Fuel pump fuse is fine, fuel pump still primes, new spark plugs, new loom, new coilpacks, I've checked the CAS wires, MAF has been cleaned + resoldered before, brand new battery,

                            Car now will crank but won't turnover.

                            Any ideas?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I would say check your Intercooler piping if all is intact change your igniter pack

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X