Drift car advice

[BongRips]

Looking to build my car up during this summer, winter and next summer and was looking for two goals. Fast 1/4 mile times and a good drift car. Currently I am stage 1 tuned r32 gts-t (minus FMIC), and the car drifts nice already but would like more power to hold skids for longer. I know I'll need a bycas kit for the drifting, but what will I need to get a decent 1/4 mile time, say 10 or 11 seconds? Turbo upgrade, top mount manifold, 660cc injectors?, fmic, cams and gears, lightened pulleys, and what else? And what type of turbo, injectors and so on should I be looking for?

[604_R32]

10 seconds on a GTS-T? Is that possible?

[johnZ32]

possible? yes. easy to do (relatively speaking)? HA

[gtrjon]

drifting and 1/4 cars are completely different platforms!!! and your list of what you would need to hit a 10 or a 11 is far from complete!!

[BongRips]

and that would be why im asking. doing an rb25 swap too. i know they are completely different platforms but if i have the torque to do drag it'll be able to handle drift as it already has enough. basically i just want to know what i'd need to get to 11 or 10 seconds on the 1/4 and what ppl have done for drift mods (such as bycas, what kind of camber you have and drop, etc).

[Nismo_line]

if you have your car setup for drift then it wont do very good on the strip and vis versa. drifting you will need a new 2 way lsd, hicas delete, roll cage, lightening the car( if your serious about drifting and want to compete in dmcc), coil overs, camber plates, max angle kits, sway bar upgrade, strut bars, more go fast goodies and so on

[BongRips]

Well i guess drift it is then.

[Skym]

RB20DET in a Silvia can run a 10.42 1/4 mile (done in Canada) -

http://www.streetfire.net/video/240sx-wrb20det-1042_702340.htm

Engine is stockish (Stock cams + stock camgears, stock bottomend with mods, stock exhaust manifold, bigger turbo, aftermarket intake manifold, etc).

Here's his build diary (link doesn't work anymore)-

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/630659

When a R32 GTS-4 with RB24 stroker kit, etc runs a 10.1 or 9.883 1/4 mile, that 10.42 1/4 mile is impressive for a close to stock engine.

High 11's can be done with stock intake, exhaust manifolds, bigger turbo, metal headgasket, fuelsystem, ECU, etc upgrades in a R32 GTS-T.

With drifting you don't need much, GTR rear swaybar, suspension upgrade, Nismo LSD (as mentioned above) or similar, intake, exhaust, ECU upgrade (mates R32 driftcar). It's not about hp with drifting, but it helps. If can drift a Toyota AE86, can drift anything.

[Ghost]

drifting and 1/4 cars are completely different platforms!!! and your list of what you would need to hit a 10 or a 11 is far from complete!!

Agreed.

Also to drift you need to delete that HICAS. Already i'm amazed you can drift with HICAS at all seeing as how when drivers says yes to sideways, HICAS says no. Delete that and you'll find the drift control your looking for.

Like Skym said, look toward eliminating body roll (sway bars, front and rear strut bars), tighten/ lower/ tune your suspension (coilovers) and get an LSD (not required but it helps).

My buddy drifts his stock GTsT, all he has is strut bar (front) coilovers and HICAS delete... and he does it VERY well!

[trickey1991]

Precission t3/t4 55mm turbo

[Skym]

Was strange that my mate had HICAS on his R32 driftcar. But can drift with HICAS if movements are smooth, slow from left to right and vice versa, slow on throttle input. I would remove HICAS as makes rear more predictable and can be more aggressive with movements, throttle input.

Aftermarket LSD is required as stock viscous LSD doesn't last long (some shim stock viscous LSD or lock it, but aftermarket LSD is better). Also aftermarket LSD can be rebuilt. With stock viscous LSD you can only change the shims.

[S13Jordie]

id say just get coils and a dif for now. it doesnt seem you know what you want for sure. You should start small, get used to the car then gradually build it up as you go. cars arnt meant to drift so be prepared to replace small little maintenance components such as bushings and linkages as they will wear out.

just start slow.. there is no point in having a 400hp "drift car" and wrecking it first day out.

[BongRips]

LSD and BYCAS are first on the list then I guess, I got plenty of power to drift. Also sway and strut bars. What would be the differences between locking the stock lsd and getting an aftermarket one?
and @ Jordie, I got new upper control arms, king pins, tie rods and many more parts this summer so all of that will be good for a while. It's dropped on just springs right now and I know that coilovers are miles better so those are on the way too.
Also, I think my HICAS doesn't move as the light comes on after the first time I turn the wheels and stays on. I don't notice any adverse effects from this though as I can still corner and handle perfectly, even at high speeds >160. I am very confused as to what's causing the light to come on and can't figure out how to check it. I bought a consult cable off of ebay from a company called e-mance, but I got it and it didn't work and he tried to say that my OBD port isn't hooked up to my ecu, which makes no sense at all considering it's the original rb20 in it. And when I try to activate the diagnostic mode (by going forward, turning the wheel, and pumping the breaks or how ever it's done I don't remember) it won't come on because the light is already on. So that's another reason why BYCAS is first, plus I like how BYCAS deletes the rear ball joints for tie rods and such instead of the lock out bars or the Tomei kit

[Ghost]

Could be a couple things. Before I put my hub and AM steering wheel on my HICAS light never came on, now it does I I go up to or past 89 kmh. I think it migh have somethin to do with some things I removed from the column to make he hub fit. But I don't really know. I've hear that HICAS isn't active till a certain speed. So I believe that if the sensors are tampered with, when it becomes active I throws the light on.

I've also heard I comes on when there's possible a leak as well. Not goin to pretend I know alot about it, just from what I've heard.. I do know it's designed for optimal control while cornering, not going sideways.

Also to check for codes there's a screw on your ECU you turn to give you the code. Most people simply disconnect the light from the dash.

[Skym]

Search for what a 1.5 way and 2 way LSD do when cornering on internet. Locked diffhead means both wheels spin at same time. Shimmed is similar to I think is a 1.5 way LSD.

HICAS mainly works above 70km/h, but it also does understeer correction while entering corners at lower speeds (can feel it doing this, sort of like rear floats a little bit). First thing I noticed (after HICAS was removed) was the understeer in the same corners where HICAS normally would correct. Rear swaybar upgrade can correct this. I found out from reasearch that S13 HICAS? or S13 Non HICAS is 18mm? or something like that vs 16mm? for R32 GTS-T HICAS rear swaybar, but didn't get the chance to try it (tried a different alignment setting to dial it out, but didn't fix it fully). Or for drift, R32 GTR rear swaybar.

Steering angle sensor is behind steering wheel. Need a HICAS compatible boss kit (maybe you call it a hub?).

HICAS ECU looks at speed of car, steering angle.

Also HICAS light on dash can mean low fluid in powersteering reservoir, so worth keeping it.