Is ~400whp realistic with this?

[cschepp]

Dude I could give you an absolute smoking deal on stuff! Including a driveshaft that is awesome and professionally made and extremely lightweight. If your interested let me know. Just remember I have had this all in a r32 and is wired and ready to rock. If someone doesn't buy my setup well it's plain and simple it will go in my ne t car. Although you are maybe low on funds this would be a chance to get verything with a low km motor and trans that you'll need to make 500whp and that will be reliable

[Supraclean]

Dude I could give you an absolute smoking deal on stuff! Including a driveshaft that is awesome and professionally made and extremely lightweight. If your interested let me know. Just remember I have had this all in a r32 and is wired and ready to rock. If someone doesn't buy my setup well it's plain and simple it will go in my ne t car. Although you are maybe low on funds this would be a chance to get verything with a low km motor and trans that you'll need to make 500whp and that will be reliable

This, Dude if I had cash Id be jumping on what ever Cschepp is selling. Dude has sold tons of stuff without hassle. Hell if I had the money I would buy his stuff but I dont.

Make it easy on yourself and get a 25.

[BongRips]

I would but like you, I won't have the funds for it, otherwise I would. Just gonna work with the 20 for now til it goes

[cschepp]

Thanks supraclean I appreciate that. And ya I gave him a good deal but sometimes people aren't in the position to buy. Most people don't understand the trouble of the build until they go do it themselves. But to each their own. Mines drop in and drive

[trickey1991]

DUDE!,

Throw a good T3/T4 turbo, a fuel pump(even a gtr pump) , 750CC injectors, FMIC and cam and i can almost guarantee you will make 400WHP .. a guy we know made 430whp on that setup..I plan on making 350whp on that exact setup minus the cam.. seriously 20's are sick (sure you need to spend more money) but theyre reliable and pretty bullet proof.

I would but like you, I won't have the funds for it, otherwise I would. Just gonna work with the 20 for now til it goes

[BongRips]

Well I already got the t3 I purchased thrown on, once that goes I'll be looking at upgrading again obviously, but that shouldn't be for a while. The forum I got the turbo off of, ppl are running it on their 20s and 25s with 350-400whp so I know the turbos not holding me back, just everything else haha. Anybody got an idea of what a compression test would run me and where to get one (my cars at a shop called western turbo, I'm assuming they'd do it?)
I won't be doing cams as I can't afford it in my build budget right now (a huge bill came in from the debt collectors that I forgot about, whoops...) But my list is the same as that just with 650cc injectors as I don't plan on making more than 400whp for quite a while and 650s will easily work with my goals.
@trickey, are your buddies using an adjustable fpr or what kind of fuel pump are they using? I'm going for the DW 300+LPH pump and I've been told by my tuner that I'll need it to regulate the flow of my higher flowing pump and people on this forum and others say stock is fine

[trickey1991]

my buddies all use Walbro pumps , however I've heard good things about the DW pumps. What kind of turbo did ya buy? hope its brand name?

Compression test. = Canada Tire, Buy a manual compression gauge, do it yourself. With a RB20DET believe your looking for 140 or higher across the board


To do It:Copied

To check compression manually with a gauge, all the spark plugs must be removed. The ignition coil must then disabled or the high tension lead grounded. If the engine has a distributorless ignition, the ignition coils must be disabled to prevent them from firing. The throttle must also be held open.

The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole.

The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders.

The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specifications (always refer to a manual for the exact compression figures for your engine because they do vary from

the ballpark figures quoted earlier)

[BongRips]

Naw, its a brand I've never heard of before but it was only $500. No one I talked to has had to replace the turbo yet, but the oldest one is only 2 years old with 30k. If I got that long I'd be more than happy, plus 1 year warranty is good too. And I've heard you can get cheap turbos rebuilt when they go by a reputable turbo dealer and it'll basically be as good as name brand for cheaper, true? And my neighbor who used to be a mechanic for the city doing turbo work on the buses before he retired said that he was surprised that it was a good quality turbo for the price so I'm not too worried about that

[trickey1991]

well thats good..but seriously do a compression test yourself , dont pay someone to do it buy the gauge, then start charging people to do compression checks on their cars

Naw, its a brand I've never heard of before but it was only $500. No one I talked to has had to replace the turbo yet, but the oldest one is only 2 years old with 30k. If I got that long I'd be more than happy, plus 1 year warranty is good too. And I've heard you can get cheap turbos rebuilt when they go by a reputable turbo dealer and it'll basically be as good as name brand for cheaper, true? And my neighbor who used to be a mechanic for the city doing turbo work on the buses before he retired said that he was surprised that it was a good quality turbo for the price so I'm not too worried about that

[trickey1991]

i love that song..lol

lol..... pass the dutchie upon the left hand side.... Seriously though... You may be able to achieve close to 400 hp with what you are gonna do, but reliablilty doesnt sound that promising.. Its tough enough to keep our cars reliable with just gentle mods.. Your going to have to make a few extra changes on top of what you mentioned, as per the above mentioned, cooling is *key* and so is the prevention of your oil making love to your coolant, . Dont forget to think about your drive line, traction and upgraded braking. Good luck with the decisions and funding of your build!

[BongRips]

I work 70 hour weeks as or recently, my spare time has been spent driving and resting haha. I don't mind paying $50 or $100 for a compression test, if it is that much.

[danwit]

I work 70 hour weeks as or recently, my spare time has been spent driving and resting haha. I don't mind paying $50 or $100 for a compression test, if it is that much.

Canadian tire is THE WORST place you can bring your car. If your gonna pay for a compression test take it to a reputable garage.

[BongRips]

I was just suggesting crappy tire as it's right across the street from me haha