Cleaning the MAF

[sidewazegtsr]

^^^

Oh yeah I forgot you said you were doing that. No prob for sure we'll hook up sometime soon and see if your new MAF makes a difference. I'm gona go to CT tomorrow and buy that spray cleaner and give it a try too.

[sidewazegtsr]

Well I bought a can of Motormaster Electrical cleaner today. Sprayed the crap out of the MAF and the harness clip.

Things seem a bit better and smoother now and there does'nt seem to be as much hesitation.

[Stevo_323]

where can i find the maf? a pic would help even more than just explaining

[got_boost!]

Ok. This is your second post like this. Again, glad you're asking questions, but is doing these things yourself really such a good idea with you current knowledge of the engine?! I suggest reading around a bit more and getting a feel for the car before you undertake any of these projects.

[Boyscout]

will throttle body cleaner work to clean the MAF? the can says its good for cleaning the air intake components.

[Stevo_323]

Ok. This is your second post like this. Again, glad you're asking questions, but is doing these things yourself really such a good idea with you current knowledge of the engine?! I suggest reading around a bit more and getting a feel for the car before you undertake any of these projects.

thats what im tryin to do, ive got a buddy whos gunna help me out, but id like to be able to atleast know what part were doing, yknow, that kinda thing

[Boyscout]

So I just cleand my MAF sensor and here are my 2 cents:

First off, I am a Mechanical Engineer and and pretty mechanically inclined. If you arent comfortable doing repair work on your car, then dont.

- I used Throttle Body cleaner (from Crappy Tire) and it worked good
- only a little black stuff showed up on the papertowel, but in the end it still runs better
- i opened up the connector hatch (4 screws) on the MAF. This was a mistake. i ripped all the solder connections.
- not such a big deal because i was going to open the top (square) hatch and re-solder them anyway.
- re-soldering the 4 pins was not too hard. just make sure your soldering iron doesnt touch the edges.
- took a while to clean all the black silicone off the cover. I used RTV sealant (the copper/orange colored gasket goo stuff) to seal it back up.
- took about 1.5 hours, which included the test drive after it was done.

any specific questions, please PM me. I will be glad to help

[Rb25DeT NYC]

I know where the coils are, I also do not know where the MAF's are. I think his question is a good one. I have always owned mustang's, corvette's, ect..

[DrMango]

I know where the coils are, I also do not know where the MAF's are. I think his question is a good one. I have always owned mustang's, corvette's, ect..

MAF are the little round black peices at the intake. flange on one side for the intake to mount and round on the other.

kyle

[donk_316]

Are you guys just cleaning the protective metal grates or the actual sensor?


You know you can cut the mesh out right?...


The part that needs cleaning (if at all) is the little sensor sticking up in the middle.

[DrMango]

I hope to god thats common knowledge. If people dont know that already, sell your car and never try to work on another car again!

kyle

[Stinky_1]

FYI: Its not always a good idea to cut that screen out. You should know that its there as a last resort to keep junk from falling into your turbo and your engine. If you accidentally lose a screw while your intake is off you can guess where it is! My suggestion is to leave that screen on and clean it up good. The power gains from removing it are less than .5%.

Unless you have already indexed your spark plugs and tuned your ecu there is NO point to removing that screen. Just keep it clean and all will be well.

[Dread Specter]

FYI: Its not always a good idea to cut that screen out. You should know that its there as a last resort to keep junk from falling into your turbo and your engine. If you accidentally lose a screw while your intake is off you can guess where it is! My suggestion is to leave that screen on and clean it up good. The power gains from removing it are less than .5%.

Unless you have already indexed your spark plugs and tuned your ecu there is NO point to removing that screen. Just keep it clean and all will be well.

I just wanna add my 2 cents on this : don't remove your screen. It saved my engine and I'm sure it can save yours. I had an old HKS air intake filter, and one day I was washing the car and some water went through and wet the filter. Took the car out for a spin and about 1 minute after I had left, the water had weakened the old filter beyond safe limits : at 70km/h, the filter disintegrated and got sucked into the intake, clogging up at the screen and drowing the engine in the middle of a boulevard. If it hadn't been for that screen, that thing would've gone right into my engine and no doubt it woud've blown it into pieces. I tell you, DO NOT remove this screen, you never know how it might save you.

[gaskinracing]

thank the gods for this post!

I just started to have same symptoms, rev's out a 2500, high idle blah blah. Read this post and popped out my maf. "I thought it was supposed to be red...."

Grab the brake-kleen and pssst, nothing. It would seem that i use alot of brake kleen. oh well off the the crappy tire to get more.

[snowcat]

If you DO have to remove part of the screen to clean your MAF thoroughly (Heavy gunk buildup) only remove one of them. There are two screens on the unit and leaving at least one there will be the last ditch safeguard against engine damage.