Dyno result short 10hp

[clone]

Result 209hp goal 220hp(OEM)

My goal this summer was to get this beet up type m back to OEM spec, safe and reliable.
I wanted to learn how to get a skyline smooth running.
building power will come later.

first dyno was 194hp running lean, with spikes in the graph and belts flapping. "dangerous!!"
1. A new walbro fuel pump balanced out the air/fuel ratio
2. timing belt, tentioner, idler bearing,water pump, splitfire ignition coils, cam sensor, igniter,corroded wires to the ECU solved the spikes.
3. compression test 150 across
4. extras- 3" HKS cat back exhaust, 18" rims,hsd coil overs Apexi air intake

I am happy with the results. honestly I though the work I did would get over OEM hp.

The car is almost 20 years old but what else can restrict OEM power?

The only things I have left are:
-wires to ignition coils are old
-release bearing on clutch is making noise
-timing could be adjusted
-Could tune ECU for 94octain
-Plugs are OEM #6 should go to #7 for the splitfire's

Any thoughts

OLD DYNO RESULT
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NEW DYNO RESULT
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[clone]

wait wikipedia says:
GTS-t, Type-M – 2.0 L RB20DET turbo I6, 212 hp (158 kW, 265 N m)

I thought it was 220hp
mabey I am not far off

[Bugsly17]

Hp is a fictional, calculated number. Torque is what you want.

[clone]

max torque 188.71 what is OEM?

[cschepp]

Torque and rb should not be in the same sentence. If you want torque get a ls1

[clone]

ls1 camaro????

just want the car to run right..it feels good now..I'll get the new graph up as soon as I can get my ftp server to work.

[DreadedFist]

Factory rating is 212hp. Crank horsepower. In other words, assuming a roughly 15% driveline loss, you're making good power for an old car running bolt ons. Keep in mind dynos read differently. The dyno local to me would probably say you have 170 horsepower.

Don't put all your hopes in a dyno number either, dynos are a tuning tool. The numbers the put out can vary so dramatically between dynos that the true HP is anyones guess. Best way to calculate is to determine trap speed in a quater mile run. Don't get to focused on peak numbers either. Making more peak power won't make your car faster. Making more power at the RPM you're at right now will make your car faster.

[clone]

Thanks thats the answer I needed.
So with the 15% I am at 240 crank horsepower. I know that's not how you tune, but at least I know the car is running well.

[clone]

just posted the new dyno on the first Thread. What do you think. The curve is smoth. and A/F is I belive at the right point.
anything else I should look at?

[MKIV]

I'm guessing that's stock boost?

My old RB20 setup was similar to your as far as bolt-ons go, however I had GTR injectors and an Rb25 GTT turbo.

264whp & 227lb-ft torque @ 14.7psi
285whp & 234lb-ft torque @ 18psi

I kept it at 1-bar to stay safe, and the 264whp kept me happy

[Skym]

My car when stock produced around 160kw x 1.341 = 214.56hp or basically 215hp at engine. But stock cars can vary by 10kw x 1.341 = 13.41hp from highest to lowest when a few are tested back to back. It's due to things like internal wastegate actuators not being at the same psi, etc.

Stock RB20DET is restricted by intercooler, 2.5" exhaust from turbo, airbox, ECU tune to suit (into 10's with A/F ratio at peak hp, mild ignition timing).

Once you add mods like 3" exhaust from turbo, GTR FMIC, 550cc injectors, 255lph fuelpump, Z32AFM + Z32 AFM plug, upgraded clutch, boost controller, stock ECU retune with Nistune, PFR6A or PFR7A sparkplugs (depending on cylinder temps), around 330hp at engine (200rwkw x 1.341 = 268rwhp at 14.7psi) max, should be what it can produce. There's many things like intercooler type (tube N fin or bar N plate), exhaust design (bellmouth dumppipe or split dumppipe), etc that can affect this power figure (higher or lower hp and boost level than mentioned).

If add a Link, VIPEC ECU or similar with MAP sensor, IAT sensor, etc, then more hp can be extracted.

Stock RB25DET can achieve 240rwkw x 1.341 = 321.84rwhp (around 386hp at engine) with similar mods and a Link ECU at only 10psi.

RB20DET should use NGK PFR5A with 1.1mm gap at factory.
RB25DET should use NGK PFR6A with 1.1mm gap at factory.

Also that's UK hp, not US hp / ps.

[clone]

Yes I am runnning stock boost..

great info..I would love to make it 0-60 in 4sec or is it best to trade up for a GTR?

[Skym]

Stock boost is around 7-8psi. If running aftermarket exhaust, podfilter, etc, then it's not exactly stock anymore. With frontpipe, cat elimination pipe, catback exhaust (0.2bar x 14.5psi = 2.9psi increase in boost level with exhaust), BOV, podfilter (0.1bar x 14.5psi = 1.45psi increase in boost level with podfilter), can produce around 12psi, 250hp at engine (RB20DET).

GTR should be able to do it with enough hp (one GTR I know of had 700hp, did it in 3.6sec?). But not cheap.

GTS-T, not sure, as I don't know of anyone that's tried 0-60mph runs. With enough hp, removal of weight, maybe.

[needavdub]

I think your limiting factor for a sub 4 second 0-60 time will be traction. You don't need a crazy amount of HP to get that time if you hook up well enough. My 2004 STi could do 4.4 (off my Gtech, which proved to be fairly accurate) to 60 with only 330 AWHP, and that was having to change into 3rd to get to 60 (stupid short gearing). I sure there's plenty of GTRs that can do 4 flat or better.