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I wanted to add my own opinion on a few things.
Don't, repeat: DONT cheap out on a turbo manifold. When the cheap one eventually (when, not if) cracks it will be a huge pain to take it off and get repaired. Those cheap turbo manifolds also have awful wastegate locations. The exhaust has to make a complete 180 degree turn to even go in the direction of the wastegate, completely opposing the direction of flow from the runners. You will experience boost creep.
Coil packs - I personally would look into new OEM's before buying the cheaper ones. The cheaper brands are hit or miss, some better than others. The OEMs in your car are likely 15-20 years old. New ones are the bomb. Believe it or not a new set can be had for around ~$430. If you run enough boost and power later down the road you can always add a kenne bell boost-a-spark.
Throttle body - Bigger is not always best. A bigger throttle body may be desired/required, but I found a much larger one to only decrease pedal resolution. What I mean by this is it takes less throttle to get more air into the engine and the response to pedal inputs dropped.
Turbo recommendation - I would look at precision 6262/6265 billet journal bearing turbos if you are on a budget. They will get your goal and leave lots of headroom.
ECU - If you are taking it to someone to tune it, find out what they do in fact tune and what they are familiar with. Those will probably be much better options.
Fuel pump - I'd look into the aeromotive stealth. It flows 340lph, and doesn't drop off anywhere near as significantly as the walbro does at increased line pressures. The walbro 255 doesn't flow much more than factory at high line pressures. Also, the aeromotive pump is a straight drop in for an excellent price.
Don't, repeat: DONT cheap out on a turbo manifold. When the cheap one eventually (when, not if) cracks it will be a huge pain to take it off and get repaired. Those cheap turbo manifolds also have awful wastegate locations. The exhaust has to make a complete 180 degree turn to even go in the direction of the wastegate, completely opposing the direction of flow from the runners. You will experience boost creep.
Coil packs - I personally would look into new OEM's before buying the cheaper ones. The cheaper brands are hit or miss, some better than others. The OEMs in your car are likely 15-20 years old. New ones are the bomb. Believe it or not a new set can be had for around ~$430. If you run enough boost and power later down the road you can always add a kenne bell boost-a-spark.
Throttle body - Bigger is not always best. A bigger throttle body may be desired/required, but I found a much larger one to only decrease pedal resolution. What I mean by this is it takes less throttle to get more air into the engine and the response to pedal inputs dropped.
Turbo recommendation - I would look at precision 6262/6265 billet journal bearing turbos if you are on a budget. They will get your goal and leave lots of headroom.
ECU - If you are taking it to someone to tune it, find out what they do in fact tune and what they are familiar with. Those will probably be much better options.
Fuel pump - I'd look into the aeromotive stealth. It flows 340lph, and doesn't drop off anywhere near as significantly as the walbro does at increased line pressures. The walbro 255 doesn't flow much more than factory at high line pressures. Also, the aeromotive pump is a straight drop in for an excellent price.
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