Need help asap!

[yanay]

I am going crazy trying to figure my problem out but i need my car back! i blew up my factory turbo from pushing it on 15 psi (exhaust blades out the back). swapped on a precision 5252e w/ external wastegate modded turbo manifold 3" elbow and 3" intake. i had tried out another turbo before the precision and it siezed from the nut on the chra hitting the blades so i noticed no boost and pulled over and killed it. than instantly tried to start it again and it cranked with the odd pop from one or two cylinders firing so i towed it home and pulled out the plugs all which were soaked from cranking it..
i got my new turbo on and it still wont start now. it cranks and it just pops and wont actually start up.. it just starts to smell like fuel. any ideas on what i can check? how can i check my coilpacks?

[Skym]

Check compression (blown headgasket). Something might have gone into intercooler or engine (if on compressor side of turbo, but sounds like exhaust side for all three turbos???).

With ignition, check ignition module, coilpack loom, CAS (engine won't start without CAS), coilpacks.

[yanay]

Turned out the engine was badly flooded. Took out the plugs cleaned them than cranked it with the injector harness unplugged for a bit to clean up some fuel and than she fired up. but it runs like **** now.. i assume it just needs some new plugs on it. anything else i should check

[Skym]

Interesting. I was thinking it kind of hydrolocked the engine with headgasket failure (oil in cylinder which I think drops octane of fuel), excessive fuel from ECU detecting knock and injecting more fuel which made engine not start.

Change oil, filter if engine flooded. Fuel in oil is not good. Also retune stock ECU if you haven't, especially with aftermarket turbo, intake, exhaust from dumppipe, BOV mods, as it runs very lean. Check compression.

[yanay]

i have done compression and it was good all across the board. I changed the plugs last night and have a perfect idle clean sound with no hiccups.. yet to drive it. ( waiting for a day off to get it insured and registered.) Im doing a oil change on it tonight. its getting a tune soon. next big check i get it will have injectors and tune. i have a wideband and adjustable fpr on the way as well.

[yanay]

Drove the car last night and hit misfire under boost.. im guessing im gapped improperly.. they are all at .25

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Wow, should be 0.8. That should clear up the misfire.


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[yanay]

.025 **

[yanay]

drove the car today and it runs very good until about 10 psi than starts to misfire.. could that be because of to big of turbo

[knate]

Your going to blow up your motor if you keep driving it without getting it tuned....

[Skym]

Blow headgasket or ringlands.

Having the wrong sparkplug gap, heatrange can damage coilpacks (they crack along seam, arcs onto metal mounting bracket thus creating grey marks on coilpack under mounting bracket). If engine starts missing at higher rpm, then expect this to happen. On my car it was 4th, 5th cylinder coilpacks that failed, the rest were ok.

Smaller sparkplug gap is needed due to way coilpacks have been setup on ECU side. Factory tends to set coilpacks up for longevity (have to make sure it last's 100,000km or 3 year warrenty period), so when up boost level the ignition is not strong enough and breaks down (have to regap the sparkplugs to stop spark getting blown out at higher rpm, boost levels). If run a ignition AMP (HKS or similar) or upgraded, stronger ignition system, can use factory spark plug gaps. Or with Splitfire coilpacks, can play with settings on ECU for coilpacks, but reduces longevity of them.

This explains how to workout gap for NGK sparkplugs -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqpregap.asp?mode=nml

Most use 0.8mm, as that is what works for mild mods, boost levels.

[NickVantol]

how do you know how much of a gap to have on the spark plugs :s?


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[NickVantol]

my bad didn't see the link there lmao


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[yanay]

just for the bigger turbo? im trying to just get it running well enough to make the drive to calgary for tuning

[yanay]

Blow headgasket or ringlands.

Having the wrong sparkplug gap, heatrange can damage coilpacks (they crack along seam, arcs onto metal mounting bracket thus creating grey marks on coilpack under mounting bracket). If engine starts missing at higher rpm, then expect this to happen. On my car it was 4th, 5th cylinder coilpacks that failed, the rest were ok.

Smaller sparkplug gap is needed due to way coilpacks have been setup on ECU side. Factory tends to set coilpacks up for longevity (have to make sure it last's 100,000km or 3 year warrenty period), so when up boost level the ignition is not strong enough and breaks down (have to regap the sparkplugs to stop spark getting blown out at higher rpm, boost levels). If run a ignition AMP (HKS or similar) or upgraded, stronger ignition system, can use factory spark plug gaps. Or with Splitfire coilpacks, can play with settings on ECU for coilpacks, but reduces longevity of them.

This explains how to workout gap for NGK sparkplugs -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqpregap.asp?mode=nml

Most use 0.8mm, as that is what works for mild mods, boost levels.

i have .8 mm all across on my new ngks (2 days old) so i should check the coils to see if they are arcing? do you think i should lower my gap because of the bigger turbo? i was told its comparable to running a gt3076r