Need help asap!

[Skym]

Check coilpacks.

I ran NGK PFR6A-11 (11 = 1.1mm which is stock gap and NGK PFR5A-11 is stock sparkplug for RB20DET) regapped to 0.8mm with hybrid factory turbo (bigger than factory turbo) at 12psi (270hp at engine) and went as lean as 13:5.1 when on boost (lean = higher cylinder temps, so PFR6A worked with heatrange, but was suggested to use PFR7A).

NGK recommend to change heat range every 75-100hp or when engine runs leaner or richer.

[yanay]

im running a bkr6e-11 gapped at .8 pulled the coils and they all look fine..

[knate]

just for the bigger turbo? im trying to just get it running well enough to make the drive to calgary for tuning

Just be careful remember when your using a bigger turbo vs. a smaller one, at the same boost level your bigger turbo is flowing more air. More air needs more fuel to prevent leaning out

[yanay]

yeah i have realized that.. not sure where to go from here..

[Skym]

Nistune for stock ECU, Deatschwerks 550cc injectors, Deatschwerks 300plh fuelpump kit, Deatschwerks hardwire kit (for fuelpump), New Nissan fuelpump cap O-ring seal, Z32MAF, Z32MAF plug / tail or Tomei Z32MAF plug / tail.

Hybrid factory turbo on my car made engine produce 20hp more than stock turbo at same boost level. Normally it would produce 250hp with breathing mods (3" exhaust from dumppipe, modified stock BOV, podfilter), stock turbo. That's without touching intercooler.

My cars engine was way to lean with that small turbo upgrade (13.5:1 A/F ratio) and ECU obviously detected knock, compensated, as it went down to 12.85:1 A/F ratio on next dyno run. Also pulled ignition timing, as torque curve shape matched how much ignition timing was pulled.

[yanay]

alright.. Last night i went through and found a leak on my turbo manifold and fixed it. my vacuum pressure is around 13.5/14 inhg im wondering if thats normal. i took her for a drive last night and now it seems my maf has gone funky because im hitting my limiter at 2500 rpm but the idle has smoothed out quite a bit.. earlier in the day i took it for a drive and when i stopped it dropped idle to 200-500 rpm and started puffing black heavy.. than died out and when i would fire it up it would sit at about 500 rpm and if i revved it, it would go up to about 3k than just drop with zero throttle response and die out

[yanay]

i have a wideband and adjustable fpr coming i just would really like to narrow this down and get it running good before the new gear shows up.. as well i checked the coils and they look replaced fairly recently. i just bought the car a couple months ago. but i did a wrap of electrical tape around them to be safe

[Skym]

Vacuum, my engine has around -8psi (last time I looked) at idle. Also idle rpm might have been slightly higher than stock 650rpm, but under 1000rpm.

If engine fails to hold idle, it can be engine running too rich (lazy o2 sensor can do this, as slowly fluctuating o2 sensor makes ECU make engine stay rich for too long), TPS not sitting on idle contact (tells ECU to switch to idle tables, etc and if it doesn't engine stalls), CAS base ignition timing is out, AACV is leaking, has failed, dirty due to carbon / oil deposits from blowby gas, aftermarket BOV is adjusted incorrectly (especially with atmosphere vented BOV that can make engine stall when driving, etc), ECU has gone into limp mode (internal problems with ECU like EPROM chip has dislodged from main circuit board or EPROM socket, etc) and can't access ECU via Consult when it does this. Knock maps don't affect fueling at idle.

But in your case the exhaust manifold could be leaking thus lazy o2 sensor is picking up that it is and ECU running engine rich. If engine wasn't running lean due to exhaust manifold leak (o2 sensor protect's engine by running engine rich), I would say to unplug o2 sensor before starting engine to check if it's o2 sensor. ECU ignores o2 sensor input and uses fuelmap, idle tables, etc only when o2 sensor is unplugged. It's just checking everything and eliminating the causes.

[yanay]

the 02 sensor is uplugged right now because i dont have the wiring diagram for it.. i have 3 brown wires on the harness and 2 white and one black on the 02 sensor

[Skym]

I guess can eliminate o2 sensor as a cause.

Engine manual (ECU pinouts for o2 sensor wiring) -

http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131170/CATID=24/SUBID=273/page=1/products.html

From what I understand, stock o2 sensors are NTK/NGK with Nissan stamped on them and can find install information here -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/oxygen_sensors/installation/index.asp

This PDF on page 12 (Nissan 3 wires) for o2 sensor -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/pdfs/Universal_Instruction_Sheet_11-16-04.pdf

[yanay]

You have been very very helpful and i really appreciate it. I have a couple more questions. I went and bough a new maf and pigtail today for a s2 rb and realized my car has a s1 maf on it.. The car ran great before the Turbo swap.. So I'm quite confused. I'm fairly sure it's a s2 (no igniter) any thoughts?

[Skym]

I gather the MAF is the same on Series 1 and Series 2 R33 RB25DET (part number, sticker colour on side of box part on MAF), as there's only one option in tuning software for R33 RB25DET MAF.

From what I understand, on Series 2 R33 RB25DET they moved the igniters (to fire coilpacks) inside ignition module to each coilpack, so ignition module on back of engine is smaller -



They did this, so can shut of each coilpack via Consult (Nissan's handheld diagnostic tool), ECU to check for faulty coilpacks. The old way on R32, Series 1 R33 is removing coilpack cover and unplugging each coilpack and the coilpack that doesn't affect engine is faulty.

[yanay]

Yeah I understand. But now this maf won't work on my car?

[Skym]

Check wiring to MAF plug, as I think that's where the MAF's are different.

[yanay]

i have checked my wiring over and over and cant seem to get it right.. anyone have a picture of their wiring that could help me.. i have tested my wiring checked it over and over and gone by the pictures and write ups with zero luck