Have you tried cleaning and resoldering the MAF? (sorry if this has been asked already)
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Hesitation/Sputtering as well as Engine light flickering under WOT
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Have you swapped any fuelling parts since its doin that? Is the car properly tuned? Ive swapped my fuel pump for a bigger 1 and my FPR so i'm running extremely rich, under 10 on boost. My GTR sputters like yours on low boost, dont want to go faster.... I'll be at the tune shop tonite!
Hope it is just that!My sky got 99 problems but to find bitches ain't one
Once you go sky; Parts you're going to buy...
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Eff your MAF
Get a new one. Sometimes they're just too far gone.
Find a compatible part. Google just the Nissan part number, find out what cars your stock MAF came in and go get one from the wreckers.
My 95gtst uses the same MAF from a 1995 Nissan maxima cost me 35$ -after taking my stock one out 5 separate times to clean, re-solder, change plug wires etc etc. haven't had the 3000rpm hang-up since I replaced it.
Good luck01 Chevrolet Maliboom-boom (winter BEATER)
93, 94, 96 Toyota Supras
95 R33 GTS-T
04 R44 Raven1 helicopter
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I agree, sometimes MAF can't be fixed. MAF on my car was like that. A way to test MAF is put multimeter on pins and blow on hotwire to see if the voltage output is correct. Should tell you if MAF is working or not. Also if cleaned with carb cleaner it can damage the hotwire, etc. Should only use CRC MAF cleaner.RESPONSE MONSTER
The most epic signature ever "epic".
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Originally posted by R3217 View PostIve cleaned and re soldered the MAF 2 times.
I wanna find a MAF where i dont have to get a tune, is my only option trying to find one from a gts? or what else works with the R32 GTS01 Chevrolet Maliboom-boom (winter BEATER)
93, 94, 96 Toyota Supras
95 R33 GTS-T
04 R44 Raven1 helicopter
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Alright thanks for the info! so best bet is to go to a shop and get the codes and go from there?
How come it ONLY does it when it warms up, my idle will be around 1000rpm then bounce up to 2000rpm, i even think it was idling at 3k one time! then it will bounce to 1000rpm again.
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Lazy o2 sensor = idle can go up (lean), down (rich). Unplugging o2 sensor should make it stop. But make sure engine isn't running lean afterwards with wideband due to leaking intake manifold flange gasket, as if flange is leaking bad enough it can cause similar up and down symptoms (o2 sensor adjusting to intake manifold airleak), fuelpump problem, etc.Last edited by Skym; 08-29-2012, 08:49 PM.RESPONSE MONSTER
The most epic signature ever "epic".
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WELL. I HAVE A SMALL PROBLEM. this guy sold me this EXACT car telling me that it was the TPS that needed to be fixed. right after he told me that it had never bogged on him before.... isnt this just odd. SO. I guess i will be the one to fix this thing now because it seems like he just got tired of dealing with it. so now i need your guys help. i replaced the O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF, opened it up, checked all the soldering, replaced the TPS (that had nothing wrong with it BTW) Pulled all the plugs and coil packs, cleaned the coils and replaced all the plugs, not just 2 of the 6 like the last owner, AND we gaped them to .8mm instead of leaving them however they came -_-. so now im stuck trying to fix this guys mistake. so any help will be AWESOME considering he just gave up, and bull sh*t his way out of it by lying and telling me that it was a 2 minute job to fix it. so, "R3217", thank you, VERY much, for your complete lack of honesty. its just fantastic to see that there are such good people in this world.
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He said he fixed it knowing that when i test drove it, it wouldnt bog until 20 minutes after it warmed up which would be about half way home. he claimed the reason he was getting rid of it was because it was impractical and couldnt afford the gas :P my mistake for trsuting him :P oh well. i got a great car, now i just gotta fix one thing and it will be good as new ish.
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