NO power when cold.

[ToroGTS]

Had this issue for awhile, just can't spot the cause..... Car lacks all power and barely moves at even full throttle while below full operating warmth, although if it builds positive boost, takes off right away while cold.... second it reads full warm it gives one final minor jerk as timing corrects and all is normal.... real pain in the butt come September temperatures.

For example flooring it 1000 to 3000 rpm you only move like 10 kmh, second you hit boost you jerk forward with all normal acceleration.... car is not driveable like this, until full warm. Specifically the issues is that timing is pulled to 6 deg btdc, hit boost or get to full warm, back to 25+ btdc as usual.

I've replaced or done trouble shooting on CAS, Knocks, water temp sensor, replaced ecu, checked base timing, MAF.... only thing I can think of is TPS, which is normally adjusted and sweeps fine....

Should also mention, that on occasion it will start and run normal for a minute until something is 'detected' and timing is pulled, becomes sluggish ect... no codes have been thrown....

advice??

[h4X6]

hmmm this is kinda normal... mine does the same thing... it makes the car stupid rich to help warm up etc... best to just warm it up and not drive it till its close to normal operating temps...

i was able to compensate all that due to having nistune so i have a bit better drivability if needed when cold

[Skym]

That's what I do, as was the old way of warming a car up (around 55 degrees with Nistune). Then drive a few km carefully until at operating temp (above 80 degrees C), drive normally. 80-90 degrees C is operating temp range.

Also I don't like driving with cold oil temps, as oil is thicker and can struggle to get to bearing surfaces. Some car manufactures (BMW is one) have a rev limiter that raises as engine warms up and doesn't allow you to over rev enigine due to cold oil temps, so it's obvious car manufactures know the problem exist's. Also have been TV adverts from oil manufactures about the problem and the excessive wear it can cause.

ECU does run richer and pull ignition timing to match engine running richer, until set coolant temp or rev over 3000rpm. All of that is adjustable via using Nistune.

If have hot cylinders, cold coolant it can crack the block, head. ECU runs engine richer to drop cylinder temps and gradually runs leaner as engine warms up (coolant warms up). Also adjust's rpm to suit to induce more air to match engine running richer. Colder the coolant, higher the idle rpm.

If engine has breathing mods it needs more ignition timing, adjust fueling to suit. It's a common problem found on many engines that are untuned.

[ToroGTS]

I'm hunting down an appropriate tune right now... This problem seems unrelated, I believe some kind of sensor or wiring issue. Literally just started randomly one day, and this is NOT normal warm up enrichment or timing pull... this is severe, timing pulled so far that the engine barely runs at all. I'll figure it out.......

[Skym]

Jerk can sometimes be related to faulty TPS. Drop in voltage tells you TPS is on the way out, but it's not always the case when TPS fails. Or have intake airleak somewhere (BOV flange gasket, intake piping, FMIC has small hole in it, pressure testing will tell you).