BEST ECU TO USE ON RB25DET?? Help please!!

[Nate]

So I'm trying to find an ecu to use on my rb25 swapped r32 I am currently working on.

My mods are:
550cc injectors
Front facing intake mani
Big fmic
Z32 MAF
Arp head studs
Equal length turbo mani
Gt2540-46t hybrid ball baring turbo
Poncams
Stock internals
Stock flywheel
Splitfire coil packs
Possibly oil cooler
Walbro 255lph pump
Meth injection
Catch can?

Also want to retain vct


Please help as I have no idea what to do when it comes to ecu's and which is the easiest to install!

[steveo1502]

Who's tuning it?

[Nate]

I have no idea yet.. Need to figure out management and a good tuner

[steveo1502]

Find a good tuner, and use what they prefer.. Don't do what I did... I found a cheap haltech and took it somewhere that deals with link, they gave me a shitty tune, this was 2 months ago, it's getting tuned again on Monday, someone who prefers haltech, hopefully this one goes better

[Woodly]

You are still running afm, so you could use a Nistune. If that's not what you're looking for, go with tuner preferred

[Nate]

Power FC?

[kengeroo]

I will be pulling the following out of my car in a couple of weeks... haven't come up with a price yet..
Power FC L-Jetro out of a 95 r33 GTR
EL Type Hand Commander 415-A030
Z32 MAFS x 2
black datalogit box + usb serial converter
HKS EIDS boxes x 2

[ToroGTS]

Nistune type 2 board..... but honestly you want good results go standalone with speed density (MAP sensor).

[Skym]

ECU's are application specific, so buy a ECU to match the mods on engine.

If engine is stock or lightly modified Nistune would work.

Once you start changing intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, etc for competition, a aftermarket ECU is needed that can run crank trigger for ignition, ethonal content sensor, individual cylinder fuel, ignition trim, onboard boost control, etc.

With a front facing intake manifold, meth injection, a ECU with individual cylinder fuel, ignition trim is handy and can run a GM methonal content sensor to adjust the tune to suit the fuel. So a plug in aftermarket ECU like LINK or ViPEC, the model that fits in stock ECU case (or have to buy or make a adaptor loom for the standalone). Make sure it has 6x ignition, 6x injector drivers.

A ECU that was used on the Group-A Skylines was Electromotive -

http://www.electromotive-inc.com/product/total-engine-control/

Or Motec for some racecars or stock ECU on older group-A racecars (stockish engine configuration with cams, etc).

LINK, ViPEC are becoming popular too on dragcars, racecars, etc.

Look at the ECU and the features it has, then price up additional parts like a boost controller, traction control, etc and you'll find out they are around the same cost or more than a ECU with those features.

[Nate]

All very good points skym, thanks for the input. I will more than likely be going stand alone with a map and all that. Thanks a ton. Which would you guys say is the best stand alone system for the mods I will be running? Any idea of the horsepower I could expect to safely run from this set up? I know of an AEM series 2 for sale with all sensors, wiring specialties harness, and some other stuff for 2000$ I may pick up in light of all this new info. I have also heard mixed opinions in regards to MAP sensors VS MAF due to map staying the same, and maf adjusting to the air qualities such as mountain driving vs city, ect ect.. Any thoughts? Appreciado my friends!

[Dragon Humper]

Not true....while in boost its all the same, temp and pressure gives you the same air whether you are at sea level or 2000m. Vacuum is the same. The only part that would be skewed a tiny little bit is the transition point between the two. Atmo...or WOT...or unplugging the vacuum line will read 2.5v at either sea level or 2000m. At that elevation it should be more like 2.4v (on a 2bar MAP). But thats a tiny portion of your entire array of load points.

I road trip all the time from Kamloops to sea level and narry an issue with running rich at high elevations...or lean at sea level. I run a Djetro with the 02 feedback turned off and moniter with a standalone wideband and an EGT guage.



Jon.

[future_R34]

Link uses oat sensor with the map sensor to make these fuel compensations. I'm currently Saving up for a link G4+ pnp.
They seem to be perf for what I'm planing on for future mods. Goal is 450whp. That's a $2200 ecu and then you can spend more on knock ad ons etc.

Like what people mentioned before, find a tuner and try the ecu system they work with, or get your ecu and then find a tuber(which may be harder)

[Skym]

All very good points skym, thanks for the input. I will more than likely be going stand alone with a map and all that. Thanks a ton. Which would you guys say is the best stand alone system for the mods I will be running?

You're welcome.

Link, ViPEC ECU (same ECU, both made by Link but I think ViPEC has more additional software features) has barometric adjustment for altitude and IAT (Inlet Air Temp) sensor for adjusting to hot, cold conditions and maps to suit hot, cold conditions.

Also with Link, ViPEC ECU, can run a low oil pressure rev limiter (with oil pressure sensor to suit). Basically if engine oil pressure drops to set pressure, the ECU can automatically engage a rev limiter to prevent you reving engine (oil pressure rises as revs rise until relief valve on oil pump opens). If oil pressure drops to 0, the ECU will switch the engine off. Neat feature to help save engine or help to prevent major damage.

Motec is a cool ECU if you can afford it and the fee you pay to open up all the features the ECU has to offer. Motec ECU can measure shock damping with sensors to suit, clutch slippage (engine vs driveshaft rpm), etc. Top pro level stuff for circuit, drag racing.