Knock in rear

[Skym]

The "certain speed" is 80 km/h.

I noticed the rear moving below 50km/h, but that might be the over 90 degrees with steering wheel.

A GTR is alot quicker through the corners and more stable in the rear without HICAS, same with GTS. But need to dial the understeer out with swaybars, as the factory understeer does catch you out if not expecting it (more so with GTS that has the swaybars setup for understeer).

[bobbo]

Very rare you'll be in excess of 80 km/h in any corner on an auto x course.
If you want to be fast in auto x I'd say the Skyline isn't an ideal platform. Too fat and heavy.
On a road course, with a decent driver and set up its formidable.

[future_R34]

I like the HICAS, but hate the noise. See how it goes..... Autocross would be easier with it tho.

[bobbo]

The "certain speed" is 80 km/h.

[Skym]

If turn steering wheel over 90 degrees or above a certain speed the HICAS ECU engages the HICAS to prevent understeer. You don't realise that until you remove HICAS and encounter the understeer when turning 90 degrees at the lights or go around 90 degree plus corner where the car doesn't want to turn in (exactly how Nissan show it happening in the factory catalogues). Can dial the understeer out via swaybars or tweeking other settings.

[bobbo]

I don't like the HICAS. I notice on longer corners when you've get your slip angle you can feel the "twitch" when hicas engages. It's unerving.

[99_SI]

Knock in rear

No I don't , saving up money to get the tomei kit....leaves the factory set up ...although heavy ...but can be used in the future ...if the rack is busted internally you might as we'll remove it. Last year at the track I could actually feel it working ....not sure if it was helpful with my shitty china tires... Realistically I would like to fix the camber all around first and get proper rubber before locking/removing anything.


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[bobbo]

I'm still using the HICAS... for now.

[future_R34]

Yes you have it all right terry , just get a lockout kit...and take the bulb out


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Lol I took the check engine light out of my old civic cause I removed the cat. Guess I'll do the same on this old girl. Do you have a lockout on your car Andrey?

- Rob, I believe you told me you have a lock out already, what was your fix for a HICAS light?

[99_SI]

Yes you have it all right terry , just get a lockout kit...and take the bulb out


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[bobbo]

R33 is an electric servo motor.

[future_R34]

Front what I know about HICAS, the old style was pwr steering lines/ fluid from the front and used electronic valves to turn the back,
I thought our cars where just the electronic servo motor in the rack. Plus the HICAS computer in trunk, and it uses angle sensor on the column.

[99_SI]

Knock in rear

Yea it will , I was gonna get a tomei lock out kit which locks it out electronically as we'll. in your case I would ....hmmm tough call... can get a lock out bar and just take out the bulb...not sure what it will do your p/s up front because I think it works in conjunction with hicas...


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[future_R34]

No play in the links/ball joints. It's inside the rack. Seems to be around where the servo motor attached inside. Everything outside it tight, just the clunk inside when it gets a quick punch or like when u drive over a crack/small pothole.

I may get a lock-out bar over the winter, if so will it set off a HICAS light?

[Skym]

On R32 you lube the outer balljoint via nipple on the diff side of the outer balljoint. But if have alot of play, have to replace the arm with balljoint on rack side and inner outer as I think Nissan list it as (I might be thinking of front steering rack) on the hub / wheel side (requires a puller on side facing fuel tank, hammer it from the other side with rod to remove it, but have to remove the lubing nipple on the side before doing that). Most recommend to remove hub and use a press, but have to replace hub bearings, etc.

I used a cheaper aftermarket balljoint and had not problems so far, but factory is best and lube them.