this worked amazing just did the removel step by step and it turnd out grate speed sensetive stearing is still operational no hevy stearing ether no need for non hicas pump as the hicas loop is just turnd into a cooling loop and the wire cut dose infact work the hicas light still comes on when you are lowe on psf and eny uther thing it coms on for sum one needs to stiky this i got so mutch yousles **** out of my car stearing re alinement is a must tho
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How-to - R32 GTS Hicas removal
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Just got a lock out bar from Feast Auto group, the setup is a bit different and I was wondering if I should just remove the lines from the HICAS back to the first solenoid (Where the electric clip is, about 2 feet back). Ill be going in my car tonight sp ill see what its like at the engine bay. If anyone has any info on the GTR HICAS delete please throw it my way
Thx everyone
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Hey everyone, ive been fighting with this for the whole night and im trying to find out how to get the tie rod ends out of the HICAS housing. Has anyone been able to do this? This tutorial statrs with them already out. One more thing, I have a 1991 GTR, do I need to do anything in the engine bay like you did or can I just stop where I first disconnected the HICAS lines where those two big banjo bolts are (About a foot infront of the rear subframe) Here are some pics of my predicament. Any help is appreciated, i need this done by Monday!!! :P
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First thing i did was put the lock bar on.
to do this, take the tie rod boots off both sides (cut the wire/cable ties) and get your shifters onto these. there around 27mm. crack them and then start undoing the one that came loose. keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. you will see a little stub between them, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it. you can now undo the other tie rod. inside the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn.
now that both are cracked, undo the rack from the car, the 2 19mm bolts above and the 2 brackets for the hicas lines (10mm). once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little and it makes getting the tie rods out of the rack a bit easier. now just unscrew the tie rods.
Last edited by Willis; 03-05-2011, 03:59 PM.
R32.4 GTR
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Ok I finally managed to separate these, you put a FLAT wrench on the chrome section (Ignore pictures above, i screwed it up) then put another large wrench on the big silver 'nut' and pull apart. Ignore the golden part.
My question though: Why do I need to go any further then the first solenoid about a foot infront of the rear wheels? Do I actually need to pull all the lines up to the engine bay and screw around with the hoses in the engine bay? When you think of it, with a functional HICAS system, the fluid goes down the lines, then stops at a dead end (The HICAS housing), with hicas removed, the PS fluid goes down the piping and stops of the dead end, which is now thosde two bolts you sintalled where the hoses used to be. Its all the same. No? Am I way off? Just a thought.
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Just want to confirm something, so from what I can see where are 4 lines going into this solenoid, the two gold ones close together at the top, (I assume) are the ones that ive capped and that go along the length of the car. So once Ive removed this solenoid and those two steel lines, im left with those two other lines, are these the ones i join together?
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Hey everyone, ok so update. In the end i decided not to touch my PS pump because it would be WAY easier to just loop the lines so the HICAS fluid now just goes in a small loop in the engine bay. On the solenoid there are four lines going in, two of them go down the length of the car to HICAS and the other two are the ones I will loop tomorrow. First pic is the HICAS bar, 2nd pic is the solenoid and 3rd pic shows the two ends that I will be looping with pipe and fitting tomorrow. Thoughts? I 90% sure these are the correct lines to connect after reading this tutorial.
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