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HICAS Delete

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  • #16
    I have to read about this mod. I don't get what's so wrong about hicas beside high-speed turning which barely never occur in street-driving mode. ( from what I understand from hicas)
    Last edited by cobrAA; 01-03-2012, 07:48 PM.
    Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

    http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/54899-ontario-cobraa-detailing-group-buy.html

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    • #17
      correcting your rear wheels to compensate is not very good for drifting haha

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      • #18
        S13 subframe anyone? Im about to do this myself. seems like a cheap option.
        (O - O) S K Y L I N E (O - O)


        1990 300zx- Rb25 swap in the future
        1991 R32 coupe- Rb25 and a money pit.
        2006 Porsche Cayman S- Im growing up.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by jschrauwen View Post
          If you're looking for a complete HICAS Delete kit, I have one BNIB available.
          http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ342534980
          Not to burst your bubble but that same kit is on sale directly from AMS at 299$ atm.
          R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
          http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565

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          • #20
            the drift works kit works great. the only thing i have a ps leak i tried connecting the lines that go to the rear together but not sure on the thread does anyone know? thanks
            1990 Nissan Skyline GTR

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            • #21
              Originally posted by DarkCaporaL View Post
              Not to burst your bubble but that same kit is on sale directly from AMS at 299$ atm.
              http://forums.gtrcanada.com/sponsor-...rakes-etc.html
              Thank you for that.
              Kijiji ad amended - http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ342534980
              http://www.300zxclub.com/picture.php?albumid=60&pictureid=4972

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              • #22
                I think I read somewhere that if you eliminate the p/s lines to the hicas solenoid you'll burn out your p/s pump ...opinions?

                also read something about removing the "fins" from the back of the pump to prevent the burn out from happening...opinions?

                Originally posted by frankiman View Post
                1 - block the hicas's exit from the power steering pump, delete the pressure lines altogether
                2 - block the hicas return line from the frontward selenoid to the p/s reservoir
                3 - deleted frontward selenoid and all hydro lines going to the back actuator
                4.1 - you can open the actuator and weld it solid from the inside, then realign the rear end
                4.2 - you can delete the actuator by replacing it with a hicas lock bar, then realign the rear end
                4.3 - you can delete the actuator AND the tie rods / tie rod ends by replacing the whole thing with an Hicas eliminator kit, , then realign the rear end
                5 - take the gauge cluster off, remove the hicas warning light's buld
                6 - remove the hicas ECU from the trunk
                7 - win
                1991 Nissan Skyline GTR (main)
                2007 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4 door (baby wagon)

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                • #23
                  This might help you.
                  sigpic

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                  • #24
                    thanks!!
                    1991 Nissan Skyline GTR (main)
                    2007 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4 door (baby wagon)

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                    • #25
                      From my understanding the rear impellor delete can be unnecessary; I just looped the lines in and out of the solenoid and IIRC, that line goes to the PS cooler. Win-win in my book, since its a lot less hassle.



                      See the top left line going to the solenoid? It goes through the cooler. Mind you this setup will make a lot of pressure in the lines so you better check for leaks. But maybe my pump will grenade after running 2 years like this? We'll see.
                      1992 BNR32 SKYLINE GTR

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