Accu-sump good or bad and why ?

[evilgtr]

I want to get one but don't know of about them, there was a recent article in modified magazine were they fitted one to a r33 Gtr and I know alot of Australians run them as well as the S2K guys . What do you think about them ? Seems like another line of solid defense against the poor oiling of the RB..

[NismoS-tune]

When it comes to that, it's a great addon to a badass system but when you add up all the parts, it's best to go drysump. For a track car it would do well but pointless on a street car.
Oh, here's a sticky about oil systems on the GTR tech page. You are more than fine at your power range with the pump you have. Just respect the rev limits!

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tech/13754-rb26-oil-system.html

[evilgtr]

They are reasonably priced and you can buy the entire kit with what looks like all the necessary parts to install in on the Gtr ? In the article it looked faiy straight forward ?

I know it's not needed for a street car but wouldn't it be handy to have for safety reasons if you wanted to do the odd track day or auto cross ?

How much is a drysump system on a rb26 ?

[NismoS-tune]

I think an accusumps runs around $600. I believe it installs behind the seat or where the A/C compressor is if you want it in the engine bay. They do take up some room. You can get nearly $4K into an oil system pretty easily when going for badass, oversized sump, oil pump, accusump that is. I've seen dry sumps around $7000 for sure, I've seen cheaper. Dry sump FTW!!! IMO If you're worried about your oil system for a street car, get a good oil pump and cooler, watch the revs, most guys will do this. The ones who use larger sumps/pumps and accu are normally track guys who will do really crazy stuff. If you're going track, the best would be to go dry sump.

[Dragon Humper]

Here's what you want:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23900/10002/-1

It's the cheapest insurance you could ever buy. Plumb it in to the return side of your oil cooler and you are golden. Even if you spend $1000 on an N1 pump, the collar and a Trust baffle kit/sump extention you still could get a moment of oil starvation if the stars align just right.

Dry sumps are the ultimate but if you don't want to rev to 10k or race for 24hrs at a time, it's not really worth it if you can't put it together yourself (for about $1500 if you fab everything yourself, $8000 if some shop does it all).


This is a no brainer for the price, you can also pre-lube your engine after it's been sitting for a while by just flipping the ball valve handle.



Jon.

[evilgtr]

Jon thank you for the link I'm going to research that more when I have time, seems very similar to the Accu-sump ? Nismo-stune and Jon - the reason why I'm looking at extra insurance is because I'm questing whether or not my oil Pam baffle was installed in my build.. I think it got left out Fml. Is there any way to tell that doesn't involve me pulling the engine ? I have a bore scope so I can look through the oil pan plug if there is something definitive that will confirm this ?
I would like to try some auto x this summer but if I don't have a baffled sump to comets my oiling upgrades then I will not risk it. I don't know the limitations oft stock baffle but I dont feel lime doing another rebuild

[NismoS-tune]

An extra quart of oil and an N1 pump should be more than ok to auto cross. Most people don't use serious oil systems. The risk will always be there. Like flashing in a freshly built head, anything can happen... lol.

[Skym]

Some mount Accusump tank infront of radiator and have cable running to cabin to activate valve on Accusump tank, like in this thread (R33GTR show / dragcar, built by R.I.P.S) -

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/113131-rips-rebuilds-borg.html

Always slightly overfill my cars engine (RB20DET) with oil. From memory, was up to H mark on dip stick.

From what I understand, dry sump is better, as oil is removed from back of head (one stage), sump (one stage), etc by multi stage (4 stage??) dry sump pump and sent to tank. Then I think from tank to dry sump pump, then back to where oilfilter goes (via sandwich plate), back through oilfilter, engine oilcooler, engine. Then the cycle starts again.

R35GTR engine runs a semi wetsump setup and has a pump (main oil pump?) drawing oil from back of heads. You can run a drain from back of head, as engine tilts that way under acceleration, but I gather it's best to have pump to remove oil from head.

R35GTR semi wetsump setup interest's me, so if anyone has detailed info on this setup, would it be too much trouble to ask you to share it???

[evilgtr]

Hahahahahaha **** hey what are he odds of that ! What a piss off. So you feel n1 pump tome orifice and a extra quart should be sufficient to auto x or do the odd track day ? Gtr-dad was saying he did one hard track day on a stock engine and the next day had rod knock..

[NismoS-tune]

A 20 year old car could very well do that but a fresh rebuild could be different. Some people simply drove to the store one day and BOOM!

[evilgtr]

Good point good point, did you find your torque split controller for me haha ?

[jdms13rhd]

I am running an accusump on my ceffy I am in the middle of building right now. I think its a good addition to a build for any kind of track use. I was building my engine for only track use but changed my mind recently to take it on the street every now and then to show off and wash it ect.

Here is what I did to mine and a cost referance to show an approx price for a reliable set up imo.

1. Crank collar $200
2. crank collar install with grub screw $80
3. N1 oil pump $? Forget what I paid. Was a while ago. guess $280
4. I am going with a 1.4mm restrictor $30
5. -10 head drain $60
6. tomei baffle plate $160
7. 1.5qt Moroso $paid $200 at mopac.
8. Already had a greddy oil coller kit. So whatever one of those cost. Lets say $300ish
9. port match OEM oil drain. Cost is nothing
10. Smooth block castings. cost is nothing
11. Only thing I need to do is buy the fittings, valve and line for the attachment of the accusump to the oilcooler line and the head drain. I am doing a split on my head drain. one to each side in -10. Not too sure what I will pay for all that stuff. Random number $350.

Total: $1660 Not too bad

Im still not sure where I am going to mount the accusump. Im thinking to the trans tunnel in the pass side. :P

Only thing Id really like to do is build a new sump and pick-up. Might spend a few hundred on that if I do the work myself. Maybe less.

Dry sump is dope, but more expensive and is always a unique set up so things can always go wrong or be harder to do quick fix`s. Im sure if I was baller enough I would have done that but whatever. Some other day when I dont need money for house, truck, business, food and working at a work at home job. :P

[RhdHybrid]

That seems like a very nice setup for a reliable oil system for a track car, you hit all the points. In terms of the accusump, it is a worthwhile investment as it will definitely help out in the corners and the hard launch's, but it is in no means a answer to the "Early" RB26 oil system issue. But as many have said before, be mindful of the rev limiter.

For the price of the Accusump or the moroso, it is a great insurance for that split second or so starvation.

Ken

[jdms13rhd]

here is some good links on the accusumps for you guys to look over.

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-24-006/

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=13600

also nice to start your car on a oil primed engine great for new built engines.

[NismoS-tune]

The only issue I have with the accusump kit is that it's universal and not so easy to mount if you care where it goes or what it looks like. Someone could install in like the Borg car but in Canada where street cleaning is weak, rocks/coarse dust could cause issues. As for the back seat, I don't think there's enough hose included. If installed where the AC comp was, I guess you then deal with exhaust heat...

Moroso is the way to go. Mopac also sells hoses and all the necessary fittings.