RB26 Rebuild

[curtisgoodman]

i also ripped off the oil cooler and lines used sea foam cleaner to flush everything out so its all ready to be re-installed... going to be using some of the old fittings for the new setup so at least everything is clean and in a ziplock bag

[curtisgoodman]

today soldered the last two battery terminals on... 4/0 welding wire and 4/0 battery terminal connectors a little over kill but oh well its what i had laying around... after solder cooled heat shrunk it and ran the loom up to the heat shrink and zap strapped it at the end... im really happy with the results... on the other end under the hood im using a bussman power distribution box with a 125amp fuse... the box is kinda cheap looking i may need to look into another better style one but it will do the trick for now... ill snap a photo of it and let you be the judge... so to clean up all the wires and positive connections that normally attach to the battery we basically just cut them all and soldered them together into a 4/0 connector which worked out pretty good...

[curtisgoodman]

i found a crappy picture of it... but u get the idea

[Bruizer]

lookin good lookin good!

Sea foam cleaner good for debris in cores like bearing materal and stuff?

[curtisgoodman]

its just something i had on hand thats safe to use on everything... its a cleaner lube... i just sprayed the oil cooler almost full then shook the heck outta it upside down with the ends plugged then blew a crap load of air through it... best i could do i suppose... i would assume there shouldnt be to much in there being that its after the oil filter... then again i had balls of metal in my turbo restricter so what do i know right lol...

[curtisgoodman]

Just ordered a set of 3" vibrant boost couplers in black and one 2-1/4" black coupler... i already have t-bolt style clamps for them aswell

[Bruizer]

Vibrant is good stuff. I think I have a mix of vibrant and HPS. The Vibrant don't come in metric and the HPS had so many options. You'll like them anway.

[curtisgoodman]

which ones did u need to be metric? i got the 3" for the hks hardpipes and the 2 1/4" for the rear piece... I have a funny looking mid pipe that i got for a good deal when i blew up a stock boost hose... still need the fourth hks hardpipe then i can put the stock twin turbo pipe back on...

[Bruizer]

Technically they're all metric but you can get away with some sae couplers. I think it boiled down to wanting red couplers at one point.

[curtisgoodman]

so got some pics of the oil line work we did today... here we are setting up the second piece to connect... wrap with electrical tape cut then install the red piece make a mark so we know if it backs out any when tightening



tightening down the other side



installed



here we see the line going to the accusump on the bottom and tee'd off returning to the engine from the oil thermostat then on the side the two going to and from the oil cooler and the top coming in from the oil filter



shot of the line going from the accusump to the oil cooler passing by the headlight

[curtisgoodman]

that was a big part of what was left to accomplish before the turbos and exhaust parts come back from toronto... im glad thats outta the way... now just little stuff left to do then just waiting for turbos.

i found the earls fittings and line to be very good quality and easy to work with, it was the first time ive used the products and id use them again anytime.

[curtisgoodman]

another shot of the lines all installed down to the sandwich plate on the block

[Bruizer]

What the heck are those 2 huge cylinder things? filters?

[curtisgoodman]

lol one is... you can't just look at the pictures The black and silver unit is my new canton racing oil thermostat, lets the oil heat up to 100 degrees celsius before circulating to the oil cooler on the passenger side (I was having issues with cold oil forever because 1 i never had a thermostat installed and 2 the 9 row cooler setup worked to well). The other blue round thing is a canton racing CM billet filter housing, inside it is a 8 micron high flow oil filter cartridge with no bypass built in (Didn't want anything ever bypassing my filter ever, also wanted better filtration) filters at 15gpm. A stock say fleetguard oil filter filters at 20 microns (size of a white blood cell approx.), 8 microns is the half the size (size of red blood cell approx.) and a human hair is 70 micron for reference... so now my oiling system is probably as good as it can get besides going dry sump... the only other thing that would be nice is an extended sump otherwise i have everything else done.

tomei oil pump
head drain back mod
drilled out oil returns in head and pan
nismo sump baffle
tomei head restrictor
oil cooler and thermostat
high flow oil filter
3 liter accusump

[Bruizer]

Interesting info there. I wonder how my hks sandwich acts... supposedly thermostated. I like what you did though! How much it run you?