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  • RB26 Rebuild

    Hey everyone new to the site and new to the GTR scene, own a '91 GTR w/ 140,XXXkm's been driving it to work regularly until one day... drove to work like every other day, had full boost car was great like always went to go out for lunch had zero boost wouldnt build and wouldnt pass the zero on the stock gauge but idled with no problems. So was digging into it after work (boost leaks etc...) and was troubleshooting for boost leaks and the engine started making some metal on metal clickity clackity noise which started shaking the engine and during this time would idle up to 800rpm (while shaking) then down to almost stall then pick back up again to 800rpm... clicking was constant and loud. I shut her down and am in the process of ripping the engine out for a full rebuild. Poor GTR she'll be receving a forged internal rebuild!! I'll be taking some pictures when i get home of what i have done and will post later the parts i'll be purchasing.

    If anyone has had this problem before let me know what you found!!

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Update

    Car has been flat decked to Z-Tune and motor is being pulled out for re-build. Getting it torn down on monday and going to find out what went on the bottom end. Im sure i spun a bearing but we'll see. Then onto the parts list.

    ACL race bearings
    ARP recommended studs (ie. head, mains, c-rod, etc.)
    c-rods (tomei or hks)
    pistons (wiseco, mahle)
    Tomei metal gasket kit
    OEM rebuild gasket kit
    new timing belt
    Koyo Aluminum radiator
    new 02 sensors
    N1 oil pump
    N1 water pump
    Tomei oil pan baffle
    GT2860R-5 x 2
    Jun crank collar
    Fuel injectors (650cc+)
    Adjustable FPR
    Apexi powerFC (D-jetro + commander)
    A/M intercooler
    Adjustable cam gears
    Tomei exhaust mani + elbows
    twin electric fans
    nismo twin plate super copper mix clutch

    If anyone has experience with pistons and rods on their re-build let me know what you went with and what you think is a good choice.

    There will be more to add i gotta good chuck to spend so if anyone has any of these parts to sell in close to new condition PM me.

    Thanks

    Curt

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    • #3
      Mine was the guiney pig build at Z-tune. With all the issues involved you should be on the road in no time. I think tim could put one together with his eyes closed now.hehehehe. i can show you what to expect by looking at my car or talk to mcguiness about all parts involved. He still has my bill.

      Comment


      • #4
        As far as connecting rods are concerned I initially bought Eagles, then caved and bought Pauters. Turns out the Pauters had the same quality control issues with big end roundness as people have occasionally experienced with Eagles. Luckily for me the rods were being modified to accept 19mm wide SR20 rod bearings so they were being re-honed anyway. I have Wiseco pistons.

        I noticed that you don't have an ATI damper listed, it's money well spent. If you insist on using an N1 oil pump you should definitely upgrade. Aside from that, the extra $500 for a high-end oil pump is a drop in the bucket compared to the total project cost. Trust me.
        There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary and those who do not.

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        • #5
          looks good curtis. I'd go for the wiseco pistons though

          IF you need help let me know. I might be willing to drive up to squamish for a weekend.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks im glad to know im in good hands! I believe ill go with hks rods or tomei thought the money would be well spent in that area.

            And yes i have a ati damper at z-tune already, and for the oil pump whats the better upgrade JUN or is there something better?

            Im going to be investing a lot into this setup i want some more input on options...

            going to get the head port matched to the stock intake and tomei exhaust, 5 angle grind on seat and polished and notched stock valves (if any burnt going with full stainless valves), planning on a tomei cam setup with somewhere between 260 - 270 deg. at 10.15 lift, springs and retainers to go with.

            I'll go with the wiseco pistons (thanks Kelaog) any better cam options to go with the turbos let me know.

            Thanks guys the info is really helpful!!

            Curt

            Comment


            • #7
              JUN is good for the oil pump, nismo, HKS also, tomei has the highest flow but is strongly suggested to also use the tomei oversized oil pan. when it comes to oiling, it's a known weakness for the RB26 so it's a good idea to get a good pump.
              No build thread.
              1991 nissan
              El terror

              "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

              Comment


              • #8
                Tomei type B Pon Cams would be a good choice for those turbos.. Not too aggressive but streetable and designed with those turbo's in mind. I went with the TYPE a's on my setup becuase I didn't want any issues with emissions and stuff.

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the oil pump options Bruizer, i'll look into that for sure, and no worries about emissions in Squamish... more power for me!

                  Thanks guys i'll keep u updated and try and get my machine shop to take some pictures of the tear down to see what happened...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Youre getting the oil restrictor with the tomei gaskets, why don't you get the tomei$ oil pump. I've heard about lot of jun ones breaking. You may have to run restrictors for your bb turbos, ztune can handle all that.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Depending on how mechanically inclinded you are,

                      Oil restrictor (ghetto style)

                      Get a shop to weld the stock oil bolt shut, go buy a .35MM drill or something close to that size. 1/32 is pretty close. (1/28 would be bang on but good luck finding it lol) Anyways, drill a hole through the bolts you had welded shut... =] Happy restricting

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by kelaog View Post
                        Depending on how mechanically inclinded you are,

                        Oil restrictor (ghetto style)

                        Get a shop to weld the stock oil bolt shut, go buy a .35MM drill or something close to that size. 1/32 is pretty close. (1/28 would be bang on but good luck finding it lol) Anyways, drill a hole through the bolts you had welded shut... =] Happy restricting
                        Hes already getting a the restrictor for free with his gaskets mang

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Make sure you upgrade your rad while your at it. These things drop it like its hot

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Eber View Post
                            Make sure you upgrade your rad while your at it. These things drop it like its hot
                            They stay nice and cool up on my jackstands =\.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by kelaog View Post
                              They stay nice and cool up on my jackstands =\.
                              It looks fast, and cool!

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