RB26 Rebuild

[curtisgoodman]

yeah just had a look not to badly priced on Ebay... well i'll go that route if it takes to long the other route... my builder doesn't think i'll need a/m main hardware because i wont be pushing the engine that hard (bet he never thought the tensioner bolt would break either )... but i want to be able to push it harder as i go and not have to worry about the bottom end... If there's any other modifications or other supporting parts, internal or external, that would give me piece of mind for big power while it's apart let me know!

Thanks

Curt

[jdmtypes]

Hey Curtis, what kinda of max power are you looking to get to in the big grand scheme of things??? Start there then figure out what is required to get that HP number. I have been told my motor wouldnt handle more than 700 the way it's built now, bottom end included. We have pretty close to the same set up, if you have been told different fill me in.

[curtisgoodman]

With what i've put into it there's no reason my bottom end couldnt handle 800hp @ the crank not that i'm aiming that high but always over build... all arp hardware will keep it together, proper balancing of the rotating assembly (as well as blueprinting), all forged internals, Ati race dampner, tomei oil pump, all oil galleries widened, oil drain back head mod... everything put together should rev to 8000rpm safely and support a lot @ the crank... if anyone has different to say post it...

Curt

[curtisgoodman]

Small update

The head is almost finished from Alec's Automotive, minor gasket matching new exhaust guides, decked and ready to go... the piston have arrived & have been measured, gapped & weighed, cylinder walls have a new crosshatch hone on them, waiting on new ACL Race bearings to go in before the bottom end is re-assembled. Injectors are out getting flow tested just a precaution myswell check out more components to make sure they're doing their job properly. New tomei metal gasket kit should be @ Ztune for monday, besides that everything will hopefully be running in a couple weeks or so... fingers crossed for round 2 on engine break-in. Pics on new install to follow.

Curt

[Dragon Humper]

That gold bolt had zero markings on it (except that symbol) to tell you it was anything other than a plain ol' Grade 5 crapass bolt that's only good for bolting on valve covers and intake mannies. By the way it broke even a Grade 5 would have stretch before failure. It had a major flaw in it (carbon inclusion).

Had no business being where it was, shame on Nissan.



Jon.

[curtisgoodman]

small update

Engine is coming along nicely should be @ Z-Tune for friday at the latest... all parts have arrived, port work has been completed, new valve guides installed, 3 angle valve grind done, polished valves. Cams, springs, lifter buckets need to be installed then the long process of shim under bucket fun! Bottom end will be together hopefully today. Then off to Z-Tune and see how long after that... can't wait to break it in again :-P

Curt

[Joker]

Damn man. I feel for you. I just read the whole thread from front to back. I started off with the:

1. Oh sure everyone is building the beast, but then as the parts list started getting better and the pics started coming. I had a smile on my face.
2. Then the tuning started and the smile turned into a grin.
3. ... Then the look of horror.
4. But the f*ck the GTR post never came, just oh well, s*it happens. Lets get her back on the road.

Awesome build Props to everyone helping out by posting, the guys at ztuned sound great!

[curtisgoodman]

4. But the f*ck the GTR post never came, just oh well, s*it happens. Lets get her back on the road.

Not quite sure if you missed a couple words in there but i get the jist of it.

Yeah Joker thanks for the post it wont be long before i'll have her tuned to 1 bar again then 1.6 bar a week after that with water methynol injection then we'll either see some great numbers or sh*t hitting the fan lol... whatever i can wait a bit longer, it's been away longer then in my driveway but that's the Skyline GTR way nowadays

Thanks for all the support guys keep the posts coming and i'll get the pics rolling in!

[tokes]

You're not the only one , I had my GTR die with 600 KM's on my built motor due to shop error. Owned the thing for just about 2 years and put 3500 KM's on it.

[Eber]

Bump.. Any news?

[curtisgoodman]

Nothing new still waiting on the engine to be put back together... there was some scoring on the top part of each cylinder wall, worse on #1 & #6 not near the rings but in 2000km's we're trying to diagnose why so we can avoid that happening again... i'd hate to see it at 10k km's if at 2k it was bad... besides that the injectors went out for testing and a couple had inconsistancy's in the spray pattern so there being shipped back to the manufactor for full testing so i can get a matched set. The head work is almost done couldnt get a hold of my machinist this morning so i might have another update later on. As of Friday the bottom end was ready to put together they just wanted to go over cylinder walls again regarding the scoring then it'll be together. As soon as the engine is done you'll know about it and it'll be on its way to Ztune to be reinstalled.

Pics of cylinder walls



I'll have more by the end of the day!

Stay Tuned!

[malibusst]

hey curt, what type of pistons are those??? ive had problems with CP's and wiseco's as the thrust side of the pistons tend to " wander " and scratch the cylinder wall... the common fix to this problem is to machine the sides of the pistons ABOVE the rings on a taper... in other words, put a taper on the pistons, about 8 degrees, all above the first ring...

[curtisgoodman]

i'll chat with my machinist today and tell him that info cause i bet thats exactly whats happening. Thanks for bringing that up!

[jdmtypes]

hey curt, what type of pistons are those??? ive had problems with CP's and wiseco's as the thrust side of the pistons tend to " wander " and scratch the cylinder wall... the common fix to this problem is to machine the sides of the pistons ABOVE the rings on a taper... in other words, put a taper on the pistons, about 8 degrees, all above the first ring...

Is this on all CP & Wiseco pistons or is it hit an miss??? Could it be claim on warranty if you know it's a problem from manufactuer??

[malibusst]

it usually all depends on how the block was machined or how the motor was run... but ive seen it all too many times with CP and Wiseco. No warranty is implied by Wiseco or CP...