Skyline GTR build/project *lots of pics + document

[archaeic_bloke]

i mean not necessarily for break in.... but just because my first oil change will be only 2000 km for start up... then i switch back to motul.

so today i worked overtime hours, and when i got home i only had a few hours left before bed, so i figured it just knock off the second turbo job... it was the same as the first, pretty un-eventufl, im super shocked i managed to get all 18 exhaust turbo studs our with out breaking or damage a single one!!

doesnt everything look better with as twins!? .... heh...heh... boobs

[archaeic_bloke]

more done today...

started off by replacing the gaskets on the exhaust side for the manifolds:


then i took off the fuel rail and injectors all to be cleaned up before re-installing.


much like the fuel rail the turbo inlet/outlet pipes are covered in corrosion...


so i tidied up the fuel rail. its now a silvery shiney piece


this is the rear turbo outlet pipe.. it was filthy, so after wire brushing it, and sanding it, i was able to get rid of the welding seam.... i want to bring it to a dull polish like my twin turbo pipe...







Then the insides of the pipes were covered in oil soot and sludge so i cleaned them all pretty good


and the last thing i did today was change this ...



into this...

blue is for water, red will be for air.


im not sure what to do with the intake manifold honestly.... im contemplating not even removing it, but if i do, i will replace the gaskets, and more then likely bring the manifold to a sandblasted grey finish, i just don`t have the time to do a good job on polishing it, and im not sure how much of a point there is to changing gaskets that don`t leak... anyone comment on that?

[jpdrift]

Looks good!! Now would be the best time to either paint or polish your intake manifold. My engine is out right now and it easier to take the manifold off now then it was last year when i polished it, just a thought.

[jdms13rhd]

@Sxybeast:
look at the rediculous engagement area... whats that like 4mm?


Yep! 4mm


heres the area that engages on the crank.. god its absolutley dispicable!


so my engine was essentially a ticking time bomb about to run out of fuse!! im SO lucky that i did something about this before it ruined my block and pistons and rods!!...

If you think you fixed the problem with an r34 crank, you need to take a look at this thread:

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/members-marketplace/t-fs-rb26-crank-collars-fits-n1-oil-pump-ect-proper-clearance-53698.html

I really like your pictures you have. If you dont mind me using them to show people, it would really help me describe the issues with oil pump to collar clearances. I am selling proper clearance collars if you are interested. Since your engine is out it would really cost you less than $300 to have a proper fitting crank. Then, you would also be able to see inside your new engine to check bearings and pump as well

[jdms13rhd]

also, about those screws backing off the oil pump. Almost every engine I have pulled apart had loose screws. Everyone should licktite them in when building an engine.

Yet another reason you should pull apart your bottom end and buy a collar while at it haha

[archaeic_bloke]

@JDMS13rhd - hey, feel free to use the photos, more than happy to share what i can, thats why i post so much stuff all the time, because when i was looking for answers, i woulda killed to find a thread like mine, this thread covers every single mod ive ever done and goes full well into detail, ive had LOTS of ppl thanks me after looking at this thread because it shows how to do a lot on the GTR.

and with regards to the crank, i had a look at what your selling, its a great product, and i fully agree with your arguments and statements you made about clearance, that is 100% the issue, its got very little or nothing at all to do with the fact that the drive is short/narrow. anyways i check with my micrometer (accurate to the thou) i measured first the diameter of the crank nose, flat to flat of course, then measured the inside diameter of my new oil pump, again flat to flat,.... i found to be no difference at all, they were 100% the excact same dimension... and i confirmed this when i tried to slip the oil pump onto the nose collar BEFORE installing it... it was like it needed to be press fit on.

but remember (to all who are reading this).... i started with a brand new N1 oil pump and R34 Crank straight from nissan.... manufacture date of less than one year ago or so now, so maybe in the very newest designs its like mine,

and the final point to make on this is the clear evidence of situation, theres not been a single person who wrecked their motor that went with a NEW crank and NEW oil pump... but TONS of instances to show people who fit the JUN collar to an N1 oil pump had engine failure.

that being said, for anyone who still needs to address this issue, i would do what you reccomend for sure... fitting a collar that is properly clearanced is the solution.

[jpdrift]

I am going to machine one up tomorrow and possibly make up a couple more to have if someone needs one. My stock crank has some play on my new N1 pump.

[jdms13rhd]

I`m glad you checked!
Nice build!

[frankiman]

hey josh, how did you block off the BOV recirc return on the pass side?

[archaeic_bloke]

after a big problem with me breaking the water lines, and the Z-tune oil lines were not exactly bolt on as they were described, anyway i went to tuboquip in montreal and they sorted it all out for me quite nicely,

it looks all like this, i had the entire water line replaced, just cause its better than old pipework


so then i bolted up all the turbo stuff and all the lines....


Then installed all the pipe work and such (and here Frankiman... you can see where i cut the recirc pipe out and capped it off):


then swapped over the vacuum lines here to the new ones, and instead of putting back those old quick spring clamps, i swiched them all over to regular clamps so theres much less likely a chance of one coming off. also installed my greddy sandwich plate and relocation kit lines...


and the same for the vacuum lines on the BOV's...


Then i finished a few other things and hoisted it up to get it to go back in:


and after many hours of manipulating the giant thing by myself... it finally sits by itself properly:


and got the tranny supported now properly:


and this is a photo for franki... the front jackstand i put on the front of the frame rails, and the rears i put here:

[xcye]

What are the part#s on the N1 pump and the R34 Crank you got?

@JDMS13rhd - hey, feel free to use the photos, more than happy to share what i can, thats why i post so much stuff all the time, because when i was looking for answers, i woulda killed to find a thread like mine, this thread covers every single mod ive ever done and goes full well into detail, ive had LOTS of ppl thanks me after looking at this thread because it shows how to do a lot on the GTR.

and with regards to the crank, i had a look at what your selling, its a great product, and i fully agree with your arguments and statements you made about clearance, that is 100% the issue, its got very little or nothing at all to do with the fact that the drive is short/narrow. anyways i check with my micrometer (accurate to the thou) i measured first the diameter of the crank nose, flat to flat of course, then measured the inside diameter of my new oil pump, again flat to flat,.... i found to be no difference at all, they were 100% the excact same dimension... and i confirmed this when i tried to slip the oil pump onto the nose collar BEFORE installing it... it was like it needed to be press fit on.

but remember (to all who are reading this).... i started with a brand new N1 oil pump and R34 Crank straight from nissan.... manufacture date of less than one year ago or so now, so maybe in the very newest designs its like mine,

and the final point to make on this is the clear evidence of situation, theres not been a single person who wrecked their motor that went with a NEW crank and NEW oil pump... but TONS of instances to show people who fit the JUN collar to an N1 oil pump had engine failure.

that being said, for anyone who still needs to address this issue, i would do what you reccomend for sure... fitting a collar that is properly clearanced is the solution.

[Joesteel]

Awesome build. I feel like an @ssh0le for not loving my car as much as you do. If nothing else you have motivated me to clean and protect it better. Cheers!

[archaeic_bloke]

@xyce - crank part number can be seen on a pic i posted of the new crank a few pages back, ...scroll back you'll see it. as for the N1 pump, i havent got a clue what the part number would be... sorry man.

@joesteel - hahah well thats good bud, at least im doing something positive in the world!


Well, ive had a number of questions via PM and on other forums so i just thought it'd be better to answer them all in the open:

1) the deal with the oil cooler is,i did install the sandwhich plate onto the block and the oil filter relocation part, but i will only be hooking up the oil cooler core AFTER the oil change (which is in 3 weeks) because i dont have enough oil otherwise... i know its a stupid little situation, but w/e....so for now theres just a hose looped around back to return the oil to block after filtering.
QUESTION:while on the topic of oil coolers, im thinking of installing the cooler core in front of the BOV's... any thoughts on that?

2) the intake manifold... i didnt polish it because i need this car running asap to get to and from work, so really im going to be running only 7 PSI of boost... untill about mid way through the summer, once i feel confident that there are no hidden gremlins, ill be buying a denso fuel pump, a new fuel press. regulator, 700cc injectors, Z32 maf's and either nistune, PFC L-jetro, or just a straight up remap at the local tuners. at which point ill seek a VERY safe tune at about 1.2 bar.

3) the rocker covers....once the car is running well enough, ill feel comfortable investing some money into the rocker covers, i want to get them painted candy apple red... not right now, but later in the summer. also an R34 engine ornament plate, and a true polish to all the pipework etc.


So... for today... heres what i did:

i wanted to take it easy in the start so i just took my time and installed the shifter, that stupid snap ring Circlip is quite difficult to put back with out a good set of snap ring plyers, i have some but they were too small!


ok, back to the engine now, i connected a bunch of vacuum lines, and replaced some more with new silicone lines, and more new clamps etc...


then installed the new ALT belt, and the new A/C belt, and bolted up the compressor


then the power steering new belt and bolted it all up and set the tensions accordingly


then put back on the newly painted front rebar (for those who asked me before, its not an N1 ducting bumper, its been cut, but very nicely and accurately so probably from japan.)


then i connected up all the rest of the engine harness wiring:


installed the rad fan and the koyo rad... shawheeet! check out those bling bling rad supports! hahaah


back under the car to hook up the speedo cable, the rear drive shaft, and the ATTESSA pump thing... i can't figure out how it feeds fluid through there for the life of me, so if someone who reads this DOES know how, please enlighten me! lol


and finally for today, since its really starting to come together now, i installed the upper and lower samco rad hoses, connected all my Defi sensors, and put in the first bit from the HKS intercooler hard piping kit... oh yah, those are the new vibrant performance silicone hose couplers, and new T-bolt clamps.

[frankiman]

about the oil cooler, i'm relocating mine to the passenger side (where the stock intercooler is on a GTS-T) because theres nothing there for GTRs
it depends on the lenght of your lines, but you can always have extensions made by Tuboquip which is what i'll be doing
check this out; http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-pro...tml#post361711
i got a couple questions;

why do you still have the A/C compressor if you don't have A/C anymore, that thing weighs a ton, trash it

what size couplers did you get ?
because my HKS hardpipe kit requires 80mm / 3,125'' couplers, and vibrant don't have any on their site, and i'm having a hard time tracking some down locally, i found Greddy 80mm couplers but they're 16$ a pop

about the rad shroud, i talked to haig about you the other day, since you got your koyo rad from them, and asked him if the oem shroud would still fit bolt on, he said no, but thats what you're using isn't it ?

[archaeic_bloke]

my lines are the shorter ones, designed to go either behind the front grill, or in front of the BOV's....

not ditching the AC... it still works totally! just need a re-charge and that high pressure line from you! lol , want to keep it 100% for sure lol

um my couplers i believe are 80mm, they came from Vibrant USA through Z-tune they were $9.45 canadian each... so ya, quite expensive.

yah, haig chopped the bottom off my oem shroud to make it fit... it does fit, i think what happens with haig is he has SOOO much on his mind sometimes he doesnt say/remember exactly what he did when and where... lol godly mechanic but waaay overworked.