Skyline GTR build/project *lots of pics + document

[cobrAA]

Josh, don,t forget the pic of how 265 fit up front

Oh and which sway bar you went it?

[cobrAA]

BTW, I thinnk you bought an ebay heater hose kit hen and you had leaking problems right? How did you fixed the issue?

[archaeic_bloke]

@CobrAA I haven't had the chance yet to swap the tires front to back! sorry, been busy lately, but I will do it soon!
my heater hose kit came from a guy on here, I forget who it was, but no thats not where it was leaking. I HAD a coolant leak from one of the banjo bolts on the rear turbo backside, Haig @ Autoworx fixed it for me a few weeks ago, no leaks anymore.

@GTRJon: k so I accidentally hit post before I was finished writing it! LOL thats why gtrjon (down below) is asking for numbers, because when he posted that the only picture up was the first one that says mustang dyno. sorry buddy!! lol

K so this is replicated from my website: http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/...o-400-whp.html

and heres a video clip: http://youtu.be/Ai4zBWfqt7g

http://youtu.be/Ai4zBWfqt7g

I dropped the car off at ACSP in Laval last night to give Pat enough time at his own pace to take care of the little things that needed to be done before we could tune, and he agreed to call me up when it was ready for the dyno so I could be there to setup the boost controller and watch the whole thing.

During the day Pat rewired my Fuel pump with a new relay to supply 13 Volts constantly to the pump. This helps to make sure fuel will always be where it needs to be, and helps to prevent against a short in the old wiring harness for the fuel pump.

Then he had to weld in a bung for his Wide-band O2 sensor, socket my ECU to accept the new tune and lastly install the bigger 660 cc injectors, which were apparently quite difficult to get inside the oem fuel rail, but he managed.


The Dyno at ACSP is a Mustang Dyno, one of the lowest reading dyno's on the market. This is because the power is recorded by whats being delivered through the tires, and onto the "rolling road". The Mustang Dyno gives the most accurate real world reading of power and torque but the downside is your numbers end up looking a little conservative compared to other dyno's that read at the hubs, which always read significantly higher because there is no rolling inertia from the wheels, and zero slipping. On the Mustang Dyno there's the possibility that the wheels will slip sometimes on the rollers and you can see blips in the torque and power curve, but these are easy to spot as they will both dip sharply at the exact same time, and only for a brief second until the wheels get traction again.

He put the car in position, and locked it down with chains and straps, put the giant blower fan in front of the car so that air would still be moving through the intercooler and radiator and got started with programming the ECU.

First thing to do was have a quick check through the systems and make sure everything was all good. Given the all clear from diagnostics he started by adjusting for the bigger fuel injectors, with a few light pulls at the lowest possible boost setting of 15 PSI the car was producing an astonishing 320 wheel horse power! (whp). He was a little shocked at how much power it could put down with so little tuning effort, so he got deeper into it, adjusting the fuel and timing maps from A to Z, he checked every cell and made sure it was a Super safe tune.

I made it clear from the beginning that my goal was not power out right, but more reliability. What good is power if you blow the engine in a week! So he continued to refine the maps and eventually got up to 360 whp in 3rd gear, we were all amazed that 15 PSI was able to hit such good power numbers, and the power curve was smooth as hell too! He had tuned a stock GTR with mods similar to mine that morning, except running oem turbos and at the same boost level that car was making 20 whp less, so thats the difference the 2860R-5's make at 15 PSI, 20 whp

He explained to me that we dyno tune in third gear because it provides the best resolution, he also explained a little bit about pulling the ignition timing some ten degrees or so, but a lot of the technical jargon is lost on me at this point.

With the low boost setting complete it was time to raise it up to the target max boost setting we planned of 18 PSI, after some fiddling around with the Blitz SBC-R we managed to land exactly at 18 pounds, he did a few pulls in third and ironed out the kinks in the maps, we then let the car cool down for a few minutes before seeing how much power it could put down.

We went up to fourth gear this time because fourth has a direct one to one (1:1) gearing ratio so it gives the most accurate power output readings, and since the tuning was essentially done, it was now time to see what this thing could really do! we watched the numbers climb just north of 400 whp before we maxed out the stock air flow meters at 6,750 RPM, damn we were all a little disappointed because this engine just wanted more! and it was willing to give us more too! we just ran out of room on the MAFs. Oh well the point was made, and the tuning complete. Pat figures that if we didn't hit the MAF limit so soon, we would have seen a max power output of 415 whp, which is an immense amount of power.

So, because I wanted a print out with a nice graph, we went back into third gear and he did one big easy pull and laid down 390 whp with 303 ft-lbs of torque on a relatively smooth curve, and he reminded me again that these numbers are really conservative and don't really mean a whole lot compared to other Dynos.

He handed me the keys and my buddy Mitch (who'd stopped by to say hello) and I went for a few quick pulls up and down the street. Mitch's car develops north of 500 whp and is a monstrous machine so he was warning me about being careful when driving this car until I get used to the new power level. Essentially it's more than double the power I've been used to handling so far.

In first gear, I let out the clutch and we were away... boost comes in pretty early and hits full near 4,650 RPM. At 1.2 Bars (18 PSI) in first gear, theres not much of anything left in my brain, sheer and utter violence as the car accelerates into oblivion, its only describable as warp speed! before I knew it I was already at 7,600 RPM!! Time to shift, Drop it into to second and the madness begins all over again, all the way up to 7,800 RPM this time we're already doing well over 120 km/hr!! Into third gear now its just mind boggling, its so hard to process all the things around you at that kind of speed, the G-force from acceleration makes it feel like theres an elephant sitting on your chest, and I let off the throttle as we approached the end of the road.

Quickly turned the car around and went even harder back down the street, we stopped back at the shop and Mitch and I were both just sort of giggling nervously, its a Lot of power, and will definitely need some time and practice to get used to.

Feeling very satisfied that all my hard work had paid off, and the tune was perfect, I shook hands with Pat, thanked him for a job well done and parted ways.

[gtrjon]

numbers ?

[archaeic_bloke]

Srry for messing up the posting process GTRJON lol, I editted the OP so hopefully everyone understands what happened hahaha

[DJ]

Power curves following eachother nicely!

[DarkCaporaL]

Nice work Josh

[frankiman]

congrats josh

how did the boost curve look like? steady once it hit 18psi ?

[archaeic_bloke]

Thanks guys! '
I didn't get a print out of the boost curve, I don't really care about the specific numbers all that much to be honest. but the information is good to see, I asked Pat about the boost curve when we were tuning, he said the Blitz SBC-R was perfect, Full boost by like 4,600 rpm and it holds rock solid, it comes on pretty quickly too.

I'm gonna fiddle around with the SBC soon when the weather warms up a bit (for some reason its lightly snowing today? wtf...) and see what happens if I raise the gain, maybe I can get the boost to come full sooner, Blitz recommend a gain setting of just 5 for GTRs where an SR20 motor they reccomen a 50! so I set mine at 5 for the tuning session and I'll see what happens if i raise it up. Also still want to program in a few more boost settings. as it is right now we just set the max boost for the tune at 18 PSI and the SBC holds that no problem, but I wanna put one setting for 15, 16, 17 and 18 PSI so I can adjust it incrementally and see if theres a noticeable difference in the boost settings when driving.

Love!

[archaeic_bloke]

okay,

So a bit of an update... I blew my ACT Clutch... I did a full write up on why it happened and all the damage with lots of photos here: http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/05/...mic-fused.html

but basically... the light weight flywheel caused there to be too much heat and the whole assembly fused together and broke!



You can see more of the damage...







For the time being, I have replaced my setup with a new oem flywheel and a Stage 3 Bully Clutch. Bully is a Canadian company based out of Ottawa, so I was able to get the clutch for my car in less than a week. They also offer 90 day warranty which will cover my summer time use, and they've assured me it will be able to handle my car no problem. So far I can say the clutch feel is very light, and the heavier rotating mass is noticeable through a now slower engine response, but it holds the power well. Haven't had the chance to really drive it hard though as I'm still under the break in period for another 350 km's.

[frankiman]

and another ACT clutch bites the dust
good ridance

how much was the bully?

[LuckyGTR]

single plate c dla marde bro

[LuckyGTR]

shoulda went TWIN plate setup bro

[archaeic_bloke]

The bully was $650, I know for the power level I'm running most people suggest a twin plate, but at twice the price of the Bully and the longer wait times, I had to go Bully. They say it will handle my power level, and so far it's doing well. I'm now at 350 km of the 500 km break in period, so almost done break in.

Ok so I got something new today... I came across a decent deal on the auctions a few weeks back for a Cusco brake master cylinder stopper brace, Adam delivered and I received it in the post today. I installed it right away.


It's not as easy to install as it looks like it would be, because its in such a cramped area you have to remove the strut tower bar, the throttle cable and the fuel filter in order to get enough room to turn the wrench.



It's braced on 3 points on the chassis, and after about an hour I had it completely installed. I was skeptical as to how much of a difference it could possibly make, but from even just adjusting the screw which applies pressure on to the cylinder, you could see the cylinder moving quite freely, which tells me normally that cylinder is probably fairly loose. So I do expect to feel a difference when braking.

Here's a pic I took few days ago, thought it looked nice.

[bellis_GTR]

sexy, great job