Caliber's R32 GTR Project

[FRRACER]

The side skirts are wet sanded and need a cut polish before going on, but I got some new parts in the mail.

3.2L surge tank for my upcoming fuel setup, some 1/0awg, 4awg kicker wire and a circuit breaker for the battery relocation, and lastly some dealer option rear mud guards from feast (upon test fitting it need some modification to fit)

Are these genuine nissan items or are they fibre glass copies?

[caliber676]

They're fiberglass replicas. I'm gonna end of taking them off and either remolding them or scraping them for a diffuser or genuine ones

[MattiasJacobs]

Got my Os Giken R3C clutch, looking good.

That clutch came out of my car! Lol

[S13Jordie]

so I picked up a set of cusco bar ends.

where did you pick them up? cusco directly?

[caliber676]

Got them from frsport.com

[FRRACER]

Are they that bad? poor fitment? The original ones are very very rare, been trying to get some for years.

[caliber676]

They fit perfect. They're genuine cusco products. Exact same thing that's on every one of their cages

[caliber676]

updating a few things, fuel system almost done just have to get the finishing touches done on the flex lines, install them and then cover the base with carbon kevlar (hopefully that endeavor goes well)

so i got the hardlines all plumbed, except for in the engine bay, made some brackets to fit the feed and return lines as well as the brake line.


had a hell of a time bending the -10an (5/8) hardline for the pump. Flex lines would have been easier but i like the look of hardline more.



picked up kevlar/nomex hardline instead of regular stainless. All cut and ready to go in when after i cover the base. basically using flex line on anything going through the body and at the engine bay.


bought a set of the new HKS hipermaxIV GT coilovers, got custom ordered spring rates so they're getting made now. Also grabbed a r34 coil conversion kit from Rightdrive, hoping that they're less problematic than the r32 coils and will hold the suspected power.

[caliber676]

Just received my new hks hipermax IV GT's, had them made with custom spring rates 8kg and 9kg. Hopefully the new hipermax line is a good one, the build quality looks top notch. Planning to put them in tomorrow.

[sb119]

picked up kevlar/nomex hardline instead of regular stainless.

The kevlar/nomex are the black soft lines right? Not covers over the hardline? Did you use stainless steel or aluminum for the hardlines? I'm going to be starting the fuel system on my own car soon and I really like the hardlines and your build in general!

[caliber676]

Sorry, your correct. I meant to say flex lines. The hardlines are aluminum, I would have preferred stainless but the cost of equipment for bending and flaring would have been ridiculous. The hard lines are really not any cheaper after buying a good bender and flaring tool but I feel looks much cleaner and I suppose saves some weight vs stainless braided. I tried to avoid stainless braided at all costs as I hate the look so this was my replacement. Let me know if you need any help with your setup I'd be glad to help with what I can

[sb119]

I agree the hardlines look way better. I've built a few fuel systems but always with flexlines so I'm looking forward to working with hardlines. I'd really like to use all stainless hardlines but you're right, the cost is prohibitive. Did you buy your aluminum tubing in rolls or in straight lengths?

[caliber676]

They came in rolls, straight lengths weren't long enough. If you roll them on the ground with a piece of plywood over it, they will get pretty much dead straight. Better than spending good coin on a tubing straightener for a few pipes.

[caliber676]

Got the rear subframe back in, coilovers in too, glad to see everything still fit fine with the control arm shortening.

[johnny510fi]

Are you sure you should be using aluminum piping for brake lines? "Brake lines should always be fabricated from Bundy tubing having a wall thickness of 0.028" minimum. Brake line pressures can and do exceed 1000 psi. On no account should copper, aluminum, or commercial fuel line be used, despite the fact that they are easily available and appear to be easy to work with. Pure copper tubing work-hardens and becomes very, very brittle- especially at flare fittings. Under the cyclical loadings seen from brake applications, and in the presence of moisture (and possibly high concentrations of chlorides, if you live in a road salt area), they will almost certainly fail. They will tend to crack and fail right at the flare, generally with little or no warning. (Copper also catalyzes the auto-oxidation of fuel, the mechanism of sludge formation. Copper should never be in contact with fuel.)" quoted off the Internet from a quick google search. Are these lines certified to be used as brake lines? Just curious.