My New Project - BNR32 GTR..... Slightly Bent.. In Newfoundland

[frankiman]

the bolts you'll need are M12x1.5 instead of M12x1
but you already have those bolts on the R34 setup, just reuse them, they are not 14mm
you can keeo the HKS lines at the front because the there is a hardline going into the caliper, which you'll need from the r34 setup
but at the rear the soft line goes directly into the caliper, thus the HKS lines won't work,
you can go to an hydraulics shop and have them make braided lines of roughly the same length, AN-3 size with M6x1 banjo fittings and bolts at the end
basically, copies of the stock rear soft lines, but SS braided

in my case, since the hydraulics shop i went to didn't have the exact fitting i needed, i had to use mutltiple fittings and adapters, hence why my rear lines look like this

[RhdHybrid]

Different pitch on the threads.... Not a big deal. From what I can see in the pictures there are no hard lines on the front spindles or callipers, So I might have to make something up as you did for the rears. As I'm working in Sault Ste Marie, the power train is being shipped to Brian's Autobody. I haven't actually seen it in person yet, but the seller provided nice video's of the compression test, as well as the motor with the current newspaper on the motor. Good to deal with so far.

Any idea on where to get a set of front rotors?? Looked at AMS, but was wondering if there was a cheaper rotor. They have a nice 2 piece on there, but with our roads and what not, I wouldn't mind a one piece if such a thing exists...

Thanks for all your input so far.

[cschepp]

Ok if your looking for a decent rotor get the part # for a r32/33/34 vspec brembo blank rotor and that should be cheaper, one piece and work awesome for you. I have done some research in the past on this and heard that you need to change the rear eh rake assembly to a 33 setup or z32 whichever is easier. Tapping the hole bigger can be a pain in the ass and is permanent, many people said to stay away from that but it's and option. The bolts on the r34 are much finer in the rear and will need to changed.

Now my big question, are you changing the master? In my eyes to achieve the full effect of the performance upgrade I would grab a r33/34 brake master which will change the brake bias and possibly help with your stopping power.

Anyways it looks great and keep up the work man. Looks like your on the right path.


Oh shoot and one last thing.... Did the r32 tunnel not suite the r34 trans? Do you find it to be a much bigger unit? Also I have heard that you could use a r34 trans cross member if you don't want to modify the 32 one. And I'm not sure if you know this but what is the gear ratios difference between the 32/34? Is the rear diff change a must?

[RhdHybrid]

Hey Cschepp, I'm not changing the master cylinder... yet, I was actually thinking about putting in a manual brake proportioning valve for the rear, that why I can dial it right in. But this is all up in the air, as I'm probably just going to try it, see how it feels. Go from there.

The Tunnel mods were in the Nismo 6spd conversion manual, I know the 6spd Trans is 20mm longer, thus pushing the transfer case back 20mm, this is the main issue from what I could see, I think the tunnel mod by the firewall are just for a thicker bell housing. I don't want any rubbing, I pounded everything back just a little more then Nismo recommended.

On the rear Diff, the R32 GTR final drive ratio is 4.11, while the R34 is 3.54. So I have to change the final drive set in the rear at least. I'm still exploring different opinions to control the Active diff in the VSpec. Finding the hydraulic unit is the tough part, I could run it with a microsquirt or something that does rpm versus throttle position or load... But my plan as of now is to just switch the ring gear and pinion.

[Xeno-Vibe]

wow the word "Jackpot" comes to mind. :|

[frankiman]

on my pictures of the front brake, i had custom SS braided lines instead of hardlines going into the front calipers, because i did not have the stock r34 front hardlines

the brake master cylinder on R33/34 is 1-1/4'' instead of 1" on r32/z32
it doesn't change the brake bias, but only reduces the pedal effort for a given brake pressure

and a proportionning valve will not work if you want to keep the ABS system
it only works on direct systems

[cschepp]

That's great to know thanks man.

[RhdHybrid]

Great info, there are a few R33 Master cylinders on ebay, is there a difference between the Vspec - GTR - GTS master cylinder. Also there are some non-ABS master cylinders on there to, Whats the best one, Obviously I'm thinking of removing my ABS as it is more of a pain, does anyone have there ABS removed?? Whats the feel like??

On the Front Rotors, I'm just going to order some AMS 2-piece ones. Saving for a Tomei Arms turbo kit there now... one thing at a time.

[frankiman]

if you want to go non-ABS, get a non-ABS 1-1/4" master cylinder, it will save you alot of trouble with the brake lines, you'll just have to remove the ABS unit then

about the front rotors, call Perry Auto Laval

http://www.perryautolaval.com/performanceeng.php

i just bought 1-piece DBA rotors (great proven quality) at 160 each there
ask for Alex, and demand the same R33 GTR rotors Francois Thériault got

[RhdHybrid]

Hey Frank, just checked out the Perry Performance website, Looks like top quality gear. I'll give Alex a ring tomorrow when I get a chance to order up the front Rotors, probably some front pads also. Depending on the cost of it all, I might just order the complete front and rear. Thanks for the heads up. Greatly appreciated.

I'm going to do abite more digging on the master cylinder. It isn't ike they are hard to get.... Not like the hydraulic unit for the rear diff... LOL

[RhdHybrid]

Update # 14

So a week after the shipment left Virgina, it showed up at the shop. However, I haven't got the brokerage bill yet.....


This weekend I managed to get the engine off the pallet and on the stand in the garage at home.


I started to stripe down the motor, removed all the cut hoses and cut wiring that I don't need anyway. The Intake manifold came off as I'm replacing it with a Greddy 2-Piece.


I then removed the turbo's and manifolds to replace them with some stainless units.


So after a pile of Tweeking and "minor adjustments" I got the turbos mounted and Back on the motor.



I'm thinking of cutting up the dump tubes and making them open dump.... but I haven't decided. Other then that, I have to make a trip out to the car to get the old harness and coolant tube for the new motor. Need to order up some intake gaskets, and a few odds and ends but all in all I think it was a great purchase.

Lots off work left yet....

[frankiman]

so a 2nd R34 engine + 6sp getrag swap on GTRC !!
this must be heaven


congrats!
its looking awesome^2

[Willis]

Sweet build. Looking at the first few pictures of the car I didn't expect a build like this. Nice job!

[NismoS-tune]

Great info, there are a few R33 Master cylinders on ebay, is there a difference between the Vspec - GTR - GTS master cylinder. Also there are some non-ABS master cylinders on there to, Whats the best one, Obviously I'm thinking of removing my ABS as it is more of a pain, does anyone have there ABS removed?? Whats the feel like??

On the Front Rotors, I'm just going to order some AMS 2-piece ones. Saving for a Tomei Arms turbo kit there now... one thing at a time.

tires really easy to square off now. Always locks up if I slow down with much force.

[RhdHybrid]

Update #15

I have been pretty busy lately and haven't had much action on the old car scene...... But I did get my Tomei top end gasket kit from Darryl @ Right Drive and my ARP Headstuds from the Brian's.

I wasn't going to tear the motor down as it looked clean and appeared to be low milage, but with work being busy and no time to work on it anyway, I thought I would take the time to at least pull it apart and do the basics. Plus if i want to add some Arms Turbo's later, Tomei recommends that you do the head gasket.

So here is the start.


Valve Covers off



The Plugs had the oddest burn on them, they were almost brand new, with a Redish hint to them.... A friend said the engine ran Torco Accelerator. Or it is a additive to Japanese fuel. Either way, hope you can see it in the pic.




And that was about it, I marked the intake manifold, Intake Plenum, Exhaust Manifolds, and Turbo's for Port Matching, but didn't take any pics. But I will tomorrow before I start cleaning everything up. Once the head is off the intake and exhaust ports are getting done as well.

Oh ya, Thanks for the opinion Nismos-tune on the brakes, I'm going to leave my ABS alone for now. It seems like just another thing that doesn't really need attention right now, with the power train build on going. Leave that for another round of mods. LOL