Law of Murphy at Play for This Daily Driver BNR32

[louis110]

You're supposed to pull the rubber pads off the pedals and drill the new pedals on. I'm not sure if I'm going to use the sparco pedals though, I think I'm going to buy the carbing pedal set instead.

The pfc has a tune on it already for a stage 1 gtr, but I'll probably take it to cam @ lightspeed to get a custom tune later down the road.

[bellis_GTR]

No info on the no start yet?

[louis110]

No info on the no start yet?

no checked the fuel pressure the other day and it's well within spec. I'm going to change the ignitor anyway and see what happens. I was talking to a guy and he said he experienced the exact same thing with his Mazda, and finally someone suggested he change the ignitor (although he was still getting spark) and his problem was fixed.

[bellis_GTR]

I guess if you've tried everything else why not. I think I asked before, but you checked over the mafs? Gave them a clean? Checked the cas?

[louis110]

I guess if you've tried everything else why not. I think I asked before, but you checked over the mafs? Gave them a clean? Checked the cas?

Haven't checked the MAFs, but I swapped them and cleaned them out last summer. I changed the CAS and still no joy.

[Xeno-Vibe]

I used to work for a rust proofing company and let me tell you, Krown is not great. This essentially is how they get you to keep buying, you gotta do it every 6-8 months or it will rust out faster then it naturally would.

When the liquid hardens and turns to gel it makes it easier for the salt to get into enclosed crevasses (door panels, quarter panels and rockers) and rust out your vehicle from the inside. If you take off the plastic plugs, you'll probably see it starting to rust bubbles form around the hole after the first winter.

Also had a friend who worked at Krown and his boss sprayed a corvette. You aren't supposed to spray fiberglass, needless to say, the paint was peeling off in minutes and the owner was furious. Didn't even get his $200 back.

[louis110]

I wish I knew this earlier! Luckily the car is in Alberta now where it's dry and they don't salt the roads.

[louis110]

Got my car running again! I changed the spark plugs and it fired right up. Ironically it's always the simple stuff eh?

Unfortunately this leads to another problem. The old spark plugs had less than 10K on them, but when I took them out (although still able to spark) were a little charred with oil residue around them. I had a guy with a fair bit of experience with RBs and SRs take a look. An inspection into the cylinder showed build up of oil sludge at the top of the pistons. After a test drive to clean out all the crap built up in the engine, the oil cap was removed to inspect the crankcase, and leaky piston rings was ruled out. There was a lot of oil blowby at the crank case breather port, but no oil was found in the turbo charge pipe.

[louis110]

Holy cow, it seems like it's never ending with this car! Now that the car is back on the road, the battery light has come on and the hicas light flickers. The battery is sitting at 12V or less during driving, and isn't taking a charge from the alternator. I'm led to believe that the alternator is pooched, but the strange thing is I hooked up a battery charger for 2 hours, the battery will read 12V at idle. The battery is a brand new Duracell with North American leads. Should I change the alternator or is it something else?

[BRN32]

Have you checked the fusable link from the alternator to battery? May have become weak with time and pooched, if it still tests ok, it'll be the alt.

[GTRADDICT]

The voltage reg could also be the bastard. Get a load tester and try it when the car is idling. 20$ and tells you a lot!

[newalliance123]

Where did you get those Valve cover and Cam cover bolts? I've found a source for the coil pack cover bolts but I still can't find the cam cover and I'm missing the top two long ones...

[louis110]

Have you checked the fusable link from the alternator to battery? May have become weak with time and pooched, if it still tests ok, it'll be the alt.

The voltage reg could also be the bastard. Get a load tester and try it when the car is idling. 20$ and tells you a lot!

Thanks for the tips guys. How would you test the fusable link?

Where did you get those Valve cover and Cam cover bolts? I've found a source for the coil pack cover bolts but I still can't find the cam cover and I'm missing the top two long ones...

I got them from dressupbolts.com thru Joe @ PHR. The coil pack bolts I got are too short and need a lot of persuasion to hold the cover down. The two long bolts for the cam cover are good though.

[BRN32]

Just remove it and test it with a multimeter or pull on the clips, if it is fried the wires will pull out of the casing much like mine did after hooking booster cables up wrong, lol!

[louis110]

After shopping around for a new alternator, the most cost effective route was buying a rebuilt unit from auto dream for $200 vs $1000 for a brand new one. It was my first time changing an alternator and good god what a pain in the ass it was! After 3 hours and lots of cussing I got it in.



Where the alternator used to be. What a pain in the ass to remove and install!


In, finally!


While I was under the hood I installed new upper rad bushings and a carbing aluminum rad panel care of Daryl.




The car runs and is finally on the road! The car has a couple of leaky injectors and is running rich though. Nothing a fresh tank of gas and a good tune can't solve.