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Project: Black Dragon

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  • Project: Black Dragon

    Well, I never thought I would do a “build” thread but here we are. Purchased the veh In late 2007, and basically sat on it until now, adding a few maintenance items along the way. I don’t think I am missing any key parts, and pics will follow.

    I just wanted to get an idea of what the community thinks. Ideally I would like to keep stock internals….(mainly for budget, but also to keep invasive work to a minimum.)

    That is unless anyone has any reason at this point why I wouldn’t.? (one member suggested I just replace the internals as I have already come this far). I am aiming for mid 500’s whp…(which I know will strain the stock internals as it is.) But, the engine is strong, good comp numbers. I am also experiencing a grind in my tranny under wot load from 2-3 and 3-4. I also notice a grind into first after extending driving periods (spirited or not). My question is that while I am getting the clutch etc done, would it make more sense to just replace the tranny with another 32 w/ less k’s? or try another route? All opinions are welcome. I am not a mechanic, but am fairly knowledgeable on this vehicle. That being said please pardon any glaring oversights I may have missed. That’s why im consulting the community. Thank you, mod lists are below.


    Current setup:

    GOOD:

    1991 R32 GTR 135XXXkms BLACK
    SPLIT FIRE COIL PACKS
    RSR CAT BACK EXHAUST
    APEXI POWER INTAKES
    OPTIMA RED TOP BATTERY
    C’S SHORT SHIFT KIT
    BLITZ SPEC R BOOST CONTROLLER (1300 DOLLAR JOKE)
    FACTORY RESTRICTOR REMOVED.

    BAD:

    CAR IS WILDLY OVERBOOSTING
    SAID OVER BOOST POSSIBLY BLEW MY REAR MAIN SEAL.
    BOOST CONTROLLER STILL HEADACHE AFTER HEADACHE HAS NEVER ONCE WORKED PROPERLY. (REPLACED SOLENOID AS WELL)

    Parts owned to be installed:

    2X 2860-5
    2X TOMEI EXPREME EXT PIPES
    MINES DOWNPIPE
    COSWORTH HEAD GASKET
    ARP HEAD STUDS
    CUSTOM DIVIDED Y PIPE
    PORTED STOCK MANIFOLDS
    OS GIKEN TS3B W/ FORK PIVOT ETC.
    INJ DYN 1000CC ID INJ W/ PHR ANODIZED BLACK HIGH FLOW FUEL RAIL.
    SS OIL LINES FOR TURBOS
    GASKETS FOR TURBOS ETC.
    NARDI SUEDE WHEEL
    OEM TIMING BELT
    N1 WATER PUMP
    IDLER/TENSIONER/PULLEY ETC.
    GREDDY TYPE R BOV W/ RB26 PIPING

    Parts to be purchased:

    FUEL PUMP (TOMEI, DENSO, BOSCH, ETC)
    ECU (AEM EMS, VIPEC, G4 ETC)
    RIMS/TIRES (R34GTR RIMS PROBABLY) POSS TE37,CE28N BRONZE).
    WATER/METH INJECTION
    CAMS/ CAM GEARS (TOMEI, HKS, ETC)
    SUSPENSION (OPEN TO IDEAS) NOT QUITE HKS HIPER MAX, BUT NOT KSPORT. Lol.

    If anyone has any other ideas I may have missed I would rather do it right the first time and have a car I can leave for awhile w/o tinkering too much. Thanks fellas. Visited the board almost everyday for almost five years, its nice to finally see some progress!

    Trevor.

  • #2
    sounds bad @s.
    Look for a good tuner near by you before you choose efi systems(electronic fuel ignition)or ems.
    People often buy one and fail to search who can calibrate their system and end up in a bad spot.
    If choosing AEM EMS please make sure its their sec gen.
    suspension is based on what you want to do with the car.Drift,Drag,Street,circuit?
    good luck
    You Love Japan and Japan hates you.Fck JDM

    Comment


    • #3
      for the grinding could it be possibly something to do with your short shift kit? if not i would say just pick up another r32 or even a r33 if you can find one as they are a little stronger. anything else your looking at 4k plus for a stronger gear set...
      1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

      Comment


      • #4
        I would say the grinding was caused from the shift kit and will only get worse, alot fo guys have trashed stock tranny in no time using a short shifter.

        What are you going to run for a oil pump ? also I didnt see a crank damper on there ?
        "LAG is the time the guy beside you thought he won"

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by gtrjon View Post
          for the grinding could it be possibly something to do with your short shift kit? if not i would say just pick up another r32 or even a r33 if you can find one as they are a little stronger. anything else your looking at 4k plus for a stronger gear set...
          33 is pull type no? The grind existed before the short shift kit but this could be exacerbating it further.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by actionbstard View Post
            sounds bad @s.
            Look for a good tuner near by you before you choose efi systems(electronic fuel ignition)or ems.
            People often buy one and fail to search who can calibrate their system and end up in a bad spot.
            If choosing AEM EMS please make sure its their sec gen.
            suspension is based on what you want to do with the car.Drift,Drag,Street,circuit?
            good luck

            thank you i appreciate the kind words... yes i am in the process of trying to find a tuner/shop to install, balance, tune everything.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by evilgtr View Post
              I would say the grinding was caused from the shift kit and will only get worse, alot fo guys have trashed stock tranny in no time using a short shifter.

              What are you going to run for a oil pump ? also I didnt see a crank damper on there ?

              i was going to take my chances on those.... but if you think it would be beneficial perhaps i should pick them up? if i remember the n1 oil pump is 2 something, and the crank dampers are around 500 no?

              Comment


              • #8
                sucks to hear you're having troubles with the SBC-R!

                a few of my friends run those and they've been rock solid so far! maybe the settings were just off? did you follow the instruction manual on how to troubleshoot overboosting?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Overboosting could be caused by many things. Wat boost and turbos do you have. If your -5s are installed they shud be running your stock actuator. But it also sounds like a controller issue. Wat is ur target boost? Also for ecus look at haltech this ecu was made for our cars unlike the ems.

                  The 33 trans is a pull and is easily converted with a drill and a tap. I would go for the 33.

                  If your pulling the motor look at getting a crank collar and doing an oil pump for sure.
                  1970 Ford Mustang Fastback -> Fully Restored with Built 351W Motor
                  1993 Audi S4 -> 2.2L Turbo at 22psi with a few extra go goodies
                  1992 Nissan Skyline GTR -> RB31.5/26 Being Built Now
                  1994 Audi S4 -> Fully Restored and Tastefully Modded, 2.2L Turbo with Hybrid Turbo GT3071/K26 at 25psi

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    thanks guys. the sbc was examined and installed by both manny at federal and radek at pur. both could not get it to work, and this is after replacing the solenoid. my only guess would be the car is messing it up, or the input/display, although i dont think that it the issue unless the board inside it is wrong somewhere. also to 4jo3... i was hoping to keep the engine mounted hence no oil drive alterations. its a street car essentially. the turbos in it right now also are stock.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      if anyone has any other input i would love to hear it? am i off base with a med to high 500's count with all parts considered? am i missing any key ingredients? I am not planning on bouncing the car off the limiter but i would explore the redline every now and again.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sorry to hear its runnning rough.
                        Darn those city folks and there flying machines!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by GodZillaa View Post
                          Sorry to hear its runnning rough.
                          lol... its not really running rough, just over boosts when your not careful. everything is great and the tranny is coming out anyway for clutch and rear main seal, so its not really a huge cost replacing that. engine, drivetrain is great. with these cars its always something haha.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I had that overboost issue once before after I just installed -5's as well...







                            ....Turned out that one of those small vacuum lines had split.
                            if you look at the top of each waste-gate on each turbo, there is a rubber vacuum line, diameter maybe is like 7.5mm OD or so.... trace those 2 lines, they will merge to one line, and follow it around.... it goes to a solid metal pipe, small diameter, and wraps around the back side of the engine, to under the intake plenum... if any of those vacuum lines is cracked (as mine was) you will see a sort of "limit-less" boost syndrome.

                            If you replaced all of those lines, check them again and again, you can also connect a pressure supply of like 4 PSI and just see if you get a leak, if you have a gauge and the gear to do so.

                            a vacuum line leak would also make it seem like your boost controller is not working properly... I'm almost positive you will find a cracked line, or that the system won't hold pressure.


                            This picture actually shows you that long black vacuum line, we bypassed all those metal pipes and just ran one simple vacuum line, because it was safer than waiting till the next one cracked... the boost controller solenoid would go right in the middle of the single line across the back of the engine.


                            here you can see them in red, don't ever buy those silicone hoses... oem rubber is way better
                            Last edited by archaeic_bloke; 02-24-2011, 02:23 AM.
                            The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I can't seem to find where you say what make those are. Sard? Samco? Autobahn 88?
                              Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                              Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                              Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                              Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                              Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                              White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                              Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                              start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                              lol

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