Originally posted by gtrjon
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Lucky gtr part 2 !!!!!! Back wit more !!!
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Originally posted by evilgtr View Post264's,N1's,yellow jackets your set up is turning into my identical set up haha thats awesome great find ! cant wait till you get it on the dyno
boost
engine spec
dyno number
octane of gaz
865 whp RB32 , R32 GTR , THE LUCKY GTR *SUMMER DRAG BEAST*
2013 Rams Laramie LongHorn 3500 Crew cab *Daily Driver*
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boost 1bar: (14.7PSI)
engine spec: RB26 CP pistons, eagle rods 1mm overbore
dyno number: 302WHP
octane of gaz: 91 shell
turbos twin: -5 (300crank hp each).
500whp seems high for N! turbos unless you have an RB30 I guess?No build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
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Originally posted by Bruizer View Postboost 1bar: (14.7PSI)
engine spec: RB26 CP pistons, eagle rods 1mm overbore
dyno number: 302WHP
octane of gaz: 91 shell
turbos twin: -5 (300crank hp each).
500whp seems high for N! turbos unless you have an RB30 I guess?1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost
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Originally posted by gtrjon View Postno he doesnt have a rb30. i dont think is 500hp is too dreamy. how did you only make 300whp!? 300whp is basically stockNo build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
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dynapac or something, hub dyno. I don't think it's the type that reads really high/low and wrong. hoping to see 500whp at 1.5 or 1.6 bar this summer, we'll see.Last edited by Bruizer; 04-18-2011, 12:46 AM.No build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
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dynopac/hub dynos read the highest of any out there. maybe someone else can chime in but this doesnt sound right to me at all. and if you made 300 at 14.7 psi bumping up to 22.05 or 23.52 will not jump you 200whp. rule of thumb is 1psi increase of boost gives you ~10whp. Unless your modyfing something else.1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost
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3 months ago modified magazine (maybe 0-60) Il find it, tested the same car on 5 different dynos to break the dyno reading myth of high/low and how tuners could modify the parameters to give inflated results. Believe it or not the Dynapac hub dynos were the most accurate (not surprising when you consider formula 1 teams transport these dynos for testing their cars) the mustang dyno read the lowest but wasnt as accurate. So the truth is that Mustang dyno's read low but a dyna pac reading is the closest to the actual cars output,make sense ? We all pretty much new this though, get your car tuned on a mustang and you will be between 9 - 13 percent lower then your actual cars true output. But run it on the dyna pac and that will be the most accurate reading you will get.
Sorry to get off topic
The scary thing was how easy it is for the tuners to manipulate the parameters without you knowing to give you a higher number. I called Cam almost immediatly after reading this and he talked to me in depth about how tuners do change things to "inflate" dyno readings. He runs his parameters spot on."LAG is the time the guy beside you thought he won"
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I still can't see how you made 500whp on N1s lol seems nuts. Most people need -5s to do that. Maybe you have N1s with lemans internals?
Originally posted by evilgtr View Post3 months ago modified magazine (maybe 0-60) Il find it, tested the same car on 5 different dynos to break the dyno reading myth of high/low and how tuners could modify the parameters to give inflated results. Believe it or not the Dynapac hub dynos were the most accurate (not surprising when you consider formula 1 teams transport these dynos for testing their cars) the mustang dyno read the lowest but wasnt as accurate. So the truth is that Mustang dyno's read low but a dyna pac reading is the closest to the actual cars output,make sense ? We all pretty much new this though, get your car tuned on a mustang and you will be between 9 - 13 percent lower then your actual cars true output. But run it on the dyna pac and that will be the most accurate reading you will get.
Sorry to get off topic
The scary thing was how easy it is for the tuners to manipulate the parameters without you knowing to give you a higher number. I called Cam almost immediatly after reading this and he talked to me in depth about how tuners do change things to "inflate" dyno readings. He runs his parameters spot on.No build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
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Bruizer, haha Im in the same boat all I know is it did it but Im still not %100 sure what they are,thats what I was told when I bought them. I havnt looked at other N1 dyno results so not sure where they should be"LAG is the time the guy beside you thought he won"
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This is pretty much what R34 N1 aka -7s aka SS would fetch on a good tune and correctly reading dyno I think.
SAU and GTROC seems them in the 400whp most often when closing in on 1.2 bar
99 R34 GTR non-vspec
Unopened engine. Done approx 70K.
100K service done with all OEM parts, including water pump, timing belt, bearings and seals.
Adjust Cam gears
Garrett -7s
Stock injector
Stock fuel pump
Stock air box with high flow air filter
Stock intercooler with full HKS hard piping
Nismo fuel regulator
Spitfire Coilpacks
Iridium spark plugs
EVC 5 boost control
Power FC
Stock dumps and manifolds
Full NISMO WELDINA NE-1 Exhaust De-Cat
Koyo Radiator
EXEDY hyper multi twin plate clutch
Tuned @ Racepace
Pulled 288.7 RWKW @ 18.2 psi, on BP 98. Just under 400whp
Bought Sard 700cc and Bosch 044, but told no need to install them as I had -7 only. Stock injectors cycle duty @ 98.8%. Knocking rarely exceeds 25 under the sun. Feels hell a lot better to drive.
Dyno
No build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
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