My 1995 GTR project thread.

[cortexx]

A single tial would be loud , i decided on them because they were for sale NEW from a GTRCer for a good price , they are made in the US and the company is easy to deal with if I need any parts or need to call them ( already had to thanks to canada post losing some of the parts ) . A Pair makes alot less noise than a single one due to the venting volume being evacuated by the 2 rather than 1. And i might go a different route for turbos later some time

The cams i already have are Tomei Poncam B's , im moderately over building everything incase I want more power later

[DJ]

I wasjust about to ask the same question, I would think that 1 would suffice.

[evilgtr]

what made you decide on the dual Tial bov's ? I have 3 BOV's that I switch out once in a while just for a different sound (they are all attached to there own I/C pipe so takes less then 5 mins) 1 of them is a 50mm Tial and its loud !! couldnt imagine having 2 of these it would sound like a screamer pipe hahaha what color is the 9lb spring ?

[gtrjon]

marvin at autodream can hook you up as he is a supertech dealer. dual springs/retainers ~500, bronze guides ~150, valve stem seals ~20, and then if you want to run big enough cams (anything over 10.4mm of lift i think they specify) tomei sells a shimless bucket set for ~ 450 that is nice. add cams on top of that and you can basically have a well put together head for around 2000 bucks with machining.

[nimblestix]

I had the head assembly to drop off this week also , they cc'd the combustion chambers to see if it's ever been machined before ( which it hasnt ) , and so they can work out the compression ratio and decide how much to skim it and how thick the head gasket needs to be to give me 8.5 :1 compression ratio. I'm still a bit indecisive on the head. I want to ditch the sodium filled exhaust valves because they are prone to snapping off using non factory cams.

I thought poncam b's would be ok on the factory valves but the increased trailing angle on the exhaust lobes with apparently add stress to them as them slam shut at a greater rate due to the extra duration so im going solid valves . not sure if i need to change the inlet valves too - they are already solid. I could always order a supertech head kit (phosphor guides , Nitrided inconel exhaust valves , titanium retainers , springs, stainless inlet valves and be done with it and sell the hks step 2 spring kit i have. More research needed ...

I posted elsewhere about oil pump choice , I think i'll probably procure a Tomei pump - it seems like the logical choice - these is so much debate on this subject it's almost impossible to make a solid decision based on any type of reasoning from points of view so i'm going to pay the extra for piece of mind..

I know i said i'm installing this all next winter but i'm excited as hell to get it running ..

Any idea how much the supertech head kit you spoke of costs? The only thing I didn't do for my build was upgrade much in the head, and I might pull it apart by mid summer to get it done. Im running first Gen B poncams.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[gtrjon]

what size cams do you plan on running? i was so torn during my build if i wanted to spend the 500 bucks on a set of valves but i came to the conclusion that the oem sodium filled valves are strong and will hold up with the proper valvetrain. keep in mind i am running decently large sized pro cams. 270 duration 10.25 lift. glad to see you came around to the tomei a few hundred dollars is definitely worth the piece of mind.

[cortexx]

I had the head assembly to drop off this week also , they cc'd the combustion chambers to see if it's ever been machined before ( which it hasnt ) , and so they can work out the compression ratio and decide how much to skim it and how thick the head gasket needs to be to give me 8.5 :1 compression ratio. I'm still a bit indecisive on the head. I want to ditch the sodium filled exhaust valves because they are prone to snapping off using non factory cams.

I thought poncam b's would be ok on the factory valves but the increased trailing angle on the exhaust lobes with apparently add stress to them as them slam shut at a greater rate due to the extra duration so im going solid valves . not sure if i need to change the inlet valves too - they are already solid. I could always order a supertech head kit (phosphor guides , Nitrided inconel exhaust valves , titanium retainers , springs, stainless inlet valves and be done with it and sell the hks step 2 spring kit i have. More research needed ...

I posted elsewhere about oil pump choice , I think i'll probably procure a Tomei pump - it seems like the logical choice - these is so much debate on this subject it's almost impossible to make a solid decision based on any type of reasoning from points of view so i'm going to pay the extra for piece of mind..

I know i said i'm installing this all next winter but i'm excited as hell to get it running ..

[cortexx]

Small update

Mostly parts collections. A few pictures because i know you guys always like pictures

First up is my Vipec ECU that arrived last week , this is whats in the box and i now need to procure a box to mount it in , might actually make one using some acrylic plate we use to make computer cases at work , ill figure that out later ...



Next up is The ATI balancer that i ordered from Summit Racing , ( only $509 atm ) . Its the one rated for 600-1000 hp , I chatted to the guys at ATI and this is the one they recommended for my build. It also came with an underdrive pulley for the waterpump to adjust for alignment for the drive belt. It's already balanced as a unit and although the machineshop said they needed it to balance the crank assembly I don't think they will be able to , have to chat to them tommorrow about it..



ALso from a forum member I grabbed a pair of Brand New 50mm Tial BOV's , these i plan to run vent to atmospherre as my vipec will be running a 3bar MAP sensor allowing me to ditch MAFS , the narrow band o2 sensors and all the recirculation pipes etc. Im going to run the 9lb springs they come with and see how well they work , need to fab some pipework to mount them , i'm favouring the turbo side of the engine to mount atm , i'll have to give that some thought.



So the short block should be in my workshop assembled sans the oilpump next week or so. The final spec for it is r32 block bored out 40+ to 87mm fitted with wiseco forged, coated skirt pistons , Carillo H beam rods with Carillo rod bolts , a balanced R34 crank kept in place by ARP studs along with ACL pro race main and end bearings. Everything is being blueprinted and balanced , should end up with a block capable of withstanding 10,000 rpm when i ram the budgie into first instead of third ( dont even think of telling me you have never done that ) !

[cortexx]

active engines in mississauga is

[RABBIT]

is mississauga engines doing the motor?
I wouldn't suggest reimax gears , my stock n1 gear had a tighter fit on the collar vs the reimax gear.Although it is made stronger..

Really? thanks for the heads up.

[DJ]

is mississauga engines doing the motor?
I wouldn't suggest reimax gears , my stock n1 gear had a tighter fit on the collar vs the reimax gear.Although it is made stronger..

[RABBIT]

Get Reimax gears or an HKS pump.

[cortexx]

I will not be porting the head too much , the head flows incredibly well for a factory setup , infact porting it will decrease response and low to middle end power if done too severely. I'll be port matching the intake assembly to head but wont be removing the hump in the exhaust ports , this leads to a slight decrese in exhaust gas velocity impacting turbo spool , if i was going large single and looking for huge power i would need to open them up . but not for my tomei twins.

I have HKS step 2 springs (single coil design) , the poncams b's are same lift as factory , increased duration on the exhaust mainly to increase exhaust pressure and spool the turbos faster . I just didnt want to use 17 year old springs on a motor that may see over 8000rpm occasionally . I was going to replace with factory springs but the slightly more aggresive rates on the HKS ones will handle the slightly more abrupt profiles of the new cams .

[frankiman]

will you get a complete port&polish of the head?
and what HKS valve spring will you get? everything will be for 9000rpm?

[cortexx]

Time to start posting pics again , this is the block thats going to be used for the forged shortblock build . It's tanked and magg'ed , ready for machineing now .


I discussed the usage of Mahle pistons with the builder and we decided to opt for a set of Wiseco slugs instead due to the machining needed to do to the mahle ones to clear the oil squirters . We agreed that if Mahle supply forged (and reasonably expensive) pistons for the RB they could atleast machine the skirts to clear the squirters . Mahle's fix was to remove the squirters , we both agreed there were certain benefits to leaving them in so Wiseco won the day (only 22 grams difference anyways) .

Also started to discuss the head a bit more , looks like looking at a set of manley or Ferrera inconel valves for the exhaust , the builder suggested ditching the sodium filled valves ( and showed me what they look like when they snap ) . But not much is going to be done other than poncam , cam cap studs , fresh set of HKS springs , manley valves (.5mm bigger than stock) , and a complete blueprint of the entire assembly. He said he will be measuring the whole assembly and machining the valve stems so that all the shims under the buckets will be the same size. Will make shimming the poncams a very simple job..

Still not really sure what oil pump I'm going to use , considering tomei , nismo , nitto or a trust one . I dont want to use a stock or N1 pump with this kind of investment in the rest of the motor..