Project Modworks Monster R32 GTR

[r32_nate]

pull the cover off the back of the pump and measure the OD of the gear. IIRC, standard is 81mm and N1 is 77mm.

Thanks Ill try that tonight and see. Fingers crossed its an N1 and save me some moneys lol. this build is getting pricey.

P.S. Anyone have any rough estimates what its gonna cost to have the crank work done for spine drive? I dont think its much more involved than the regular collar press. Also, is my crank the "short" nose?

[bobbo]

Yours is long. LUCKY!

[NoLimit0596]

Your oil pump it N1 because has 8 phillipe screw vs oem only 7 and exhaust manifold get major exhaust leak too. Good luck with your build

[r32_nate]

Yours is long. LUCKY!

Sweet I was hoping for that! so im still gonna likely do the spline drive set up... gonna be a shame to mill down a long nose lol

Your oil pump it N1 because has 8 phillipe screw vs oem only 7 and exhaust manifold get major exhaust leak too. Good luck with your build

Can anyone comfirm this? I measured and its a 77mm OD gear

[xcye]

Your crank looks to be a R33 or R34 OEM crank.
Your Oil Pump is definitely a N1 oil pump.

Sweet I was hoping for that! so im still gonna likely do the spline drive set up... gonna be a shame to mill down a long nose lol

Can anyone comfirm this? I measured and its a 77mm OD gear

[Boostedgtr]

Anymore updates on this beast?!?!

[r32_nate]

Anymore updates on this beast?!?!

Not much, ordered a full OEM gasket set, Full ACL Race bearing set rods and mains, and ordered my Manley Spring and Retainer set. So I can get the head built in a few weeks. Also might have my wheels sold and a few other things, So Hopefully ordering bottom end stuff soon.

Just waiting on parts and in a few weeks ill be taking the block and crank ot be machined hopefully. Ive decided 100% on the spool RB spline drive crank set up too.

[bobbo]

Who's doing your engine work for you?

[r32_nate]

Who's doing your engine work for you?

likely sussex engine re builders or armstrongd\s for machining work and crank, the rest ill do myself.

[bobbo]

Both good choices. Armstrongs being a virtual legend would be my first choice. If your considering coming this far Nova Automotive in Dartmouth has a very long/good reputation aswell.
Plus if you're venturing this way you can always stop by for a "refreshment".

[r32_nate]

well its been a while since my last update, sorry guys, my grandfather has been in the hospital lately and not doing so well.

on an upside, have had some garage time to keep my mind off things, and have accomplished a fair amount. I checked the block, the deck is straight, and i honed the cylinders. The block looks awesome, and is ready to be built once i get it hot tanked tomorrow and paint it.







I ordered my pistons and rods from raw brokerage, black friday sales on the cp/manley set was a no brainer. I also have ordered my acl race bearings, full gasket set, and my springs/retainers like i mentioned above.

all i have left now is arp head studs and the spool rb spline drive oil gears i have decided to go with (along with the machining work required to fit it). I should be able to finish ordering parts soon, and start rebuilding. I also got my hands on a precision 6265 for a damn good deal and might have that for the spring.

ill update with some painted pics tomorrow if i get it done in time.

[r32_nate]

progress...

we instilled the manley springs and titanium retainers as well, started to set the valves but had to stop because I need a inch pound torque wrench to set the caps to the right spec. Having a hard time turning the cams because they are all new parts, and higher spring pressure. Anyways I should be able to finish up tomorrow.

[r32_nate]

So I learned a very important lesson last night... for anyone who doesnt know, cam caps are not interchangeable between engines.

I installed my PonCam B's last night, and when attempting to set the valve lash, realized that I couldn't turn the cams at all. I bent a screw driver trying to pry between the bolts of the cam gear. I thought maybe it was the pressure of the stronger springs causing this, but when the cap bolts were loosened off just slightly from the 8ftlbs torque spec, they turned, just with lots of pressure. It seemed strange but still smooth, so figured maybe thats just they way they should be. I tried dropping the torque to the minimum suggested to 6.7ftlbs, and still wouldnt turn.

After dealing with this for a while, i finally posted on GTRC facebook asking for advice or if its normal for this set up, and a good fella chimed in and started asking questions. Finally when he asked if the caps were backwards or out of order, I mentioned that they were form another RB26DETT because the stock ones for that engine had damaged bolts. I then learned that each rb26 has a different tunnel bore for the cams and that the other caps might be too tight, causing the cams to bind. I cut the old cam cap studs that were damaged, switched the studs all around and used the old ones, springs free as a bird.

Something to keep in mind for some that may not know this.

-- Now on to setting the valve lash. Started a bit last night, but my headache was so bad at that point i quit for the night. Seemed like every time we found the biggest feeler gauge that would fit, then moved on to the next, if we came back we would fit a few sizes bigger. The numbers kept changing. I think I was just too frustrated to think straight. Gonna give it another go tonight when Im home from work.

[r32_nate]

just a small update, started painting some things tonight. ceramic coat black is done, head will be ceramic coast cast iron color. need more tape.







I also have a quote request into precisionshims.au for the remaining 6 shims I need for the intake side. basically need 3x .118 and 3x 119.

[r32_nate]

Valve shims have been ordered from RHDJapan.com. First time using them so I hope all goes well. All I have left now is head studs and the oil collar and im done buying things lol.