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  • BNR32 Oil Pump Drive Issue

    Great thread on this problem along with the good pics and the fix over on the HybridZ forums today. Something all owners of early R32 GT-R's should be aware of. This looks like a very serious issue that everyone with one of these early RB26DETT motors should check.

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99168
    1991 Case 580K 2WD Extendahoe (aka "Brutus")
    2006 Ford F350 SD PSD Crew DRW (aka "Monster")
    2006 Kubota F2880 60" Mower & 51" Snowblower (aka "Buzz")

  • #2
    Did some further research on this with FAST.

    Following are the crank part#'s.

    12200-05U01 - used in RB26DETT's in the R32 from 89/08 - 93/02
    12200-05U02 - used in RB26DETT's in the R32 from 93/02 on and
    also used in the R33
    12200-05U03 - used in RB26DETT's in the R34

    It also looks like the xx01 and xx02 cranks are superceded by the xx03 crank as well.

    So from this I think we can assume that if you have a GT-R that was built before 93/02 you need to check the oil pump drive and make sure to upgrade it when you have the motor apart.
    1991 Case 580K 2WD Extendahoe (aka "Brutus")
    2006 Ford F350 SD PSD Crew DRW (aka "Monster")
    2006 Kubota F2880 60" Mower & 51" Snowblower (aka "Buzz")

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    • #3
      Thanks for sharing the useful info

      Just to clarify, my car has an xx01 crank (90/03), so either an xx02 or xx03 crank will drop right in, or would I need to modify anything?
      Dave

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      • #4
        I assume so since Nissan supercedes to the xx03 crank - but we really should check with someone who has done this - probably Sean?? At the least I think you would also want to upgrade/replace the oil pump at the same time. If the xx01 crank is not damaged, it would probably be less expensive to get a new collar made up for the oil pump drive rather than buy a new crank - depends on if you have access to a good machinist I guess. The other thing to consider is that every time you change a crank, you are going to have to install a new set of main and rod bearings as well. The bearings in these engines are toleranced and are likely going to be different sizes depending on the crank you get (see FSM for an explanation of this).
        1991 Case 580K 2WD Extendahoe (aka "Brutus")
        2006 Ford F350 SD PSD Crew DRW (aka "Monster")
        2006 Kubota F2880 60" Mower & 51" Snowblower (aka "Buzz")

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        • #5
          from what i remember i do believe it drops right in.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by icydude
            from what i remember i do believe it drops right in.
            ^^based on the last RB26DETT you worked on right?

            "Life's too short to drive boring cars!"

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            • #7
              http://forums.gtrcanada.com/viewtopi...167&highlight=
              - Denis

              Any donations to the Human Fund would be greatly appreciated.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JZ
                Originally posted by icydude
                from what i remember i do believe it drops right in.
                ^^based on the last RB26DETT you worked on right?
                yeah that right no back a while ago when this was brought up one of the realy guru's said it.

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                • #9
                  I have a new crankshaft in my R32GTR 600 GBP which dropped straight in. The Oil pumps are the same and you can visually check for wear on the drive if reusing the old one.

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                  • #10
                    I have posted this a number of times. The early R32 crank drive is about 1/2 the width of the late R32 or R33 crank.


                    Oil pumps and revs kill RB's. Dont over spin it. Use a good pump. Use a wide crank drive.



                    Sean Morris



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                    • #11
                      I would imagine that it's quite the job to replace the crankshaft, is there anything else that should be looked at/replaced while it's all apart? I'd hate to have to do that twice.
                      Dave

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                      • #12
                        Replacing the crank is rebuilding the engine. You can do it on the cheap, but the RB is not a cheap motor.

                        At least new rings, new bearings, new gaskets.

                        I can't say I have never done a quick and dirty rebuild, but only because I was very time limited.

                        Nismo bearings, Tomei metal gaskets, Tomei oil restrictor, ARP head studs , ARP main studs. Put a good oil pump on it. Watch #6 cylinder and it will be very, very strong.

                        A setup like this was in Nicks car last time. 550 whp and it wasn't at all stressed.
                        Sean Morris



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                        • #13
                          You are best to change the crank as they wear on the Thrust surfaces of the centre bearing. Also people do not have good results with Re ground cranks

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                          • #14
                            Is this strictly a 26 problem, or do the 20s suffer as well?
                            -Josh

                            1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
                            1990 Skyline GTS-R

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                            • #15
                              Just a 26 issue. Read that some where on this site.
                              1989 Skyline GTR

                              "Want to Race? Save it for the track!"
                              www.victoriamotorsports.ca

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