think I just killed my engine!

[Smilez]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2sdDmjqMV0

what's it sound like?

[DreadedFist]

Rod knock? Where you thrashing it hard when it started doing it?

[markc32]

does sound like a knock...does it make that sound at 2000 rpm n above when u rev it?

[Smilez]

does sound like a knock...does it make that sound at 2000 rpm n above when u rev it?

yes and I'm pretty sure it happened when I accelerated away from a lights, but my music was pretty loud.

[BenC]

Definitely sounds like a bearing spun. Is this a rebuilt motor?

[Smilez]

Definitely sounds like a bearing spun. Is this a rebuilt motor?

no.
how do I tell if the engine is rebuildable?

what's my worst case scenario?

[NismoS-tune]

no.
how do I tell if the engine is rebuildable?

what's my worst case scenario?

Worst case scenario would be $7000 cause your block is bad lol. You case, I'd guess at most $3-5k will get you a decent build to get 400whp safely and reliably. You could go into the big boy builds if you have lots of cash in the piggy bank. Anyways, best case, you need new bearings and a machine, maybe some piston rings, crank collar while you're there, gaskets.

[gtrjon]

deff sounds like knock. new bearings/ machine work here you come.

[Smilez]

it's stupid question time, since I've never been in this situation before.
this means, pulling the engine and rebuilding it? ideas of cost?

[gtrjon]

yes you must pull the motor and rebuild it. ive spun bearings on two honda motors and i am in the process of building my gtr right now. depending on damage you will need new rods (you might be able to get away with 5 of them but i always went with a new set) new bearings. and your crank might be scared. machine shop for a new hone. head gasket etc.... ballpark 2-4k?

[NismoS-tune]

your crank might be scared.

Ohh, that's bad, no one likes chickenshit cranks. Better get rid of it or take it to a shrink.

Worst case scenario would be $7000 cause your block is bad lol. You case, I'd guess at most $3-5k will get you a decent build to get 400whp safely and reliably. You could go into the big boy builds if you have lots of cash in the piggy bank. Anyways, best case, you need new bearings and a machine, maybe some piston rings, crank collar while you're there, gaskets.

That's a ball park based on possible damage.

[markc32]

if its a rod knock then its just bearings on the con rods and prolly messed up the crank....if u spun a main bearing then a lot of work maybe need to fix ur block...or a new block if not fixable...good luck man

[JNS Performance]

Here is my old GTR when the motor went.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RR5tms4qjs

[archaeic_bloke]

searail FTW...lol jks.


as for that sound... sounds like knock to me too.
you can get away with doing a ultra cheap rebuild... but the point is, while the engine is out, there are some parts that are just WORTH changing at the same time, because the parts are cheap and the labor is SO much easier while engine is out, such as gaskets, heater hoses etc.

I would say at the very least buy an R33/R34 crank... you can get a new one for $600 USD from nismo parts .com... or find a used one on the UK or Aussie boards (they go cheaper there then here but shipping might kill the deal)

don't machine you'r old crank its a waste... too many band-aids on old crank is a bad idea.

if u just wanna make it run again and do the very minimum possible... something along these lines might suffice:

- R33/34 used crank $400 (prices in canadian... best prices ive ever seen.. for cheapest options)
- new bearings *mandatory* $350... ACL race series... best bang for buck.

that would get you running for under $1000... assuming you havent damaged your block or rods....


if u can afford it, do the following while the engine is out also:

- new oil pump (anything is better than 20 yr old oem)
- new water pump
- Timing belt, idler, tensioner,
- full gasket kit to replace all engine gaskets and seals
- heater hose kit to replace all heater hoses under manifold
- replace vacuum hoses with new rubber ones


if u have even more money... its worth it to upgrade the turbos if ur still running stock turbos..


I'd start with pulling the engine out first.... remove the oil pan, and see what u can tell from the bottom before you pull off the head...maybe even see if u can't do a compression test first before removing the engine, that way if you know the ring seals are still hlding >150 PSI on all 6, you don't need to touch the head, or pistons... and as long as the bottom ends of the rods are ok, you could totally leave rods and pistons in the block and just do crank and bearings.

[GTR-Dad]

Sorry to hear it....
I've got a crank with a crank collar and set of Wisco pistons if you need them. Misc parts that may or may not help, but you're welcome to sift through what I've got. Price will be GRTC member friendly.

Dan