New symptoms. Wants to stall

[cschepp]

No a fair price for them is 150 usually. Maybe 500 for a brand new one. That would be a good deal and a great idea

[danwit]

Do you have an rb20/25/26? Where are you located? Your welcome to try mine (rb20) or my maf i your close enough to hamilton. I had the same problem you have and was lucky enough to be able to try a buddys maf. Car ran mint with the other maf so it saved me a lot of time and money truobleshooting the problem.

[Rides]

Hey guys, it's so awesome to have so many people care about other peoples dream rides. Here's what I did. I came home after work and took off the maf and brought it to my laundry tub and prepared to clean it. When I was removing the pod filters I noticed that the previous owner had over tighten the filters and crack the heck out of the maf. When I opened up the maf, there was definitely carbon built up or some sort of black residue. Only the one had it but the other maf was pretty clean by the naked eye. Took out my maf cleaner (I guess you can use off the shelf crappy tire ones cuz I did) and sprayed the heck out of it. I sprayed the meshing too, to clean it up a bit. I put a bit of plastic epoxy to seal where the crack was and let to dry. Hooked everything back up and disconnected the negative terminal to reset ecu. I also cleaned the connectors to the maf and cas. The waited for the car to warm up and took it for a spin (a long spin 1 hour) and the car is running very well. No stalls and no fluxuation during load and idle. Again, thanks guys for all the help!! I'm going to take it apart again on my day off while taking pictures to help others that have the same problem! Sorry for the long thread!

[cschepp]

Definitely waitin on solutions. I am going to clean my mafs tomorrow and stuff. Unfortunately I think I need some new plugs and coil packs. Please let me know what happened asap

[Rides]

The car runs beautiful. Cleaning the mafs worked. Just make sure to use a maf cleaner. Researched the web and found some horror stories on people using carb or brake cleaners. I didn't want to risk it and bought some maf cleaner at canadian tire. Cost about 10 bucks.

I will post again tomorrow after driving to work. It's a 20 minute drive in the morning so, it'll truely test it

[canadiancarguy]

Sometimes an air leak inbetween the MAF and Turbo inlet causes similar issues and makes the car run super rich (blue haze at low rpm). I have similar problems with my GTR (I used brake clean on my MAFs and messed them up). Also sometime they get coated with crap if you put new K&N filters and make the mistake of oiling them. (I also have done this).

[Rides]

Ya I read up on the consequences of oiling the filter. It has a chance to gunk up your maf sensors. I was told it's best to change filters frequently.

[GTRADDICT]

Ya I read up on the consequences of oiling the filter. It has a chance to gunk up your maf sensors. I was told it's best to change filters frequently.

Or go with Apexi filters. I believe they are dry filters. K&N would work on a MAP based engine.

[Rides]

So here an update on my situation. After cleaning the maf it definately made a difference. When slowing down the rpm stays constant and no signs of stalling. Sit at about 950 to 1000. Drove for about 30 mins to see if there were any reaction and nothing. Car runs very smooth. Close to my home, I decided to push the car a bit more and put a bit more boost into it, and when I let off and applied just a bit of throttle pressure, the rpm dipped a bit and seem to have no power. Almost like the air/fuel ratio wasn't balance for a bit. Maybe too rich for about 2 secs. When I pull up to my driveway, and got out my turbo timer was set to 5 minutes. 3 minutes into my timer, the rpm drop to about 300 and was just about to stall, but it picked back up before it did. I put the key back in and let it ran for another 10 minutes and there was no more stalling issues. So I just turn it off.

What should I look for in this case? Mind you, before I cleaned my mafs yesterday, the car was choking very severally. Stalled about 3x at idle and lost of power when under load, got home and stalled a few more times.

[DarkCaporaL]

Did you check for air leaks?

[GTRADDICT]

Did you reset de ECU?

[Rides]

No, what's the best way to check for leaks? And which lines should I check?

[Rides]

I had the negative terminal diconnected while cleaning maf, this resets ecu right?

[DarkCaporaL]

No, what's the best way to check for leaks? And which lines should I check?

You can either use a propane torch in the engine bay while the engine is running and run it near the lines. If the engine revs/sound changes then there's a leak where you just passed.

Or you can block off both MAF intakes and pressurize the system using compressed air through any other vaccum hose. You will hear hissing if there's a leak. This method requires a compressor though.

[Rides]

You can either use a propane torch in the engine bay while the engine is running and run it near the lines. If the engine revs/sound changes then there's a leak where you just passed.

Or you can block off both MAF intakes and pressurize the system using compressed air through any other vaccum hose. You will hear hissing if thi ere's a leak. This method requires a compressor though.

I will try the propane way first. So I just let the gas out of the torch and run it by the lines to see if there is any change in idle sound correct?
Thanks man will try that now.