Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

RB26 longevity

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Originally posted by Skym View Post
    If want to keep stock engine, at least fit a metal headgasket, ARP head studs and keep engine hp under 100hp above stock hp level, keep boost levels down under 1bar (to reduce blowby).
    I figured I would have to change the head gasket. What thickness is good for a stock engine? Good catch on the studs. My studs aren't that old/used but my point is to add longevity mods to my engine. I'll do a little more research on studs.


    Originally posted by Skym View Post
    Then derestrict engine via fitting full exhaust from back of turbo's, play with camtiming to suit, ECU tune, electronic boost controller (to drop boost level), engine oilcooler (Nismo or similar size). Or could remove stock heat exchanger and run a bigger oilcooler core, but not sure if stock oil pump is good enough (high enough pressure) to run a bigger oil cooler core (N1 oil pump is higher pressure oil pump). Could shim the stock oil pump pressure relief valve so stock oil pump is higher pressure (don't think it's a good idea to do that, as something could go wrong).
    I want to remove the stock oil heater/cooler. I'm very interested in doing an overhaul of my cooling system. I suspect that the RB26 has by-pass lines and/or other paths that help the engine warm up to promote better emissions. I'm not concerned with warm-ups so I might do a lot of removing and/or welding of certain lines. My logic behind that is to ensure that coolant is concentrated inside the engine and radiator.

    I think the NISMO oil cooler comes with a thermo-sandwich that will replace the stock exchanger... I dunno. I'll have to look into it.

    Originally posted by Skym View Post
    Nismo or Tomei Baffle plate requires removing engine to remove sump. Another way to help prevent oil starvation problems without removing engine is with a Accusump tank. Also shifting into higher gear to keep engine revs lower in corners helps and drop down gear when exiting corners. More rpm = more oil moved to head by oilpump and too much oil in head + high G corner causes oil starvation / lack of oil around pickup in sump (that's why they fit Tomei oil gallery restrictors, as smaller diameter than factory restrictors and is done with aftermarket oil pumps that move more oil to head).
    Thanks. I notice basically 3 solutions in regards to oil: Tomei orifice, Tomei baffle, and Mine's cam baffle. I am interested in removing the engine and taking it apart to install supports. Is there any point in installing the 3 mentioned items or is it overkill (i.e. if I install the Tomei orifice, I don't need the Mine's CAM baffle).

    Knowing the fact that I want to remove my engine, please let me know what else: "you might as well, since you have the engine out" mods I should be looking at. Thanks.

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by bobbo View Post
      I do schools, lapping days, time attacks and auto xs all year long with a stock oil system and no oil cooler. I simply add 1l of oil and keep an eye on oil temps.
      My car now has almost 155,000kms and absolutly no problems.
      See my thread on http://forums.gtrcanada.com/general-...gtr-faith.html I really feel the oil issues with the RBs is exaggerated.
      I just hope I don't end up eating my words!!!
      bobbo, thanks to you too, bud. I'll read your post a little later.
      I'm curious to know what supporting mods people that race their GTR do.

      Comment


      • #33
        Deleting the oem oil cooler/warmer is goin to be tough with the engine in but is doable (you'll understand you've done an oil change with the filter there). What do you plan on doing once
        It's removed? It doesn't use the same thread as a relocation plate or filter so a custom adapter will be needed. As for pulling the engine, if you do that, why not rebuild it? It's a pain to remove just To add a pan baffle. Imo you want to race the 20 year old engine, do it right and rebuilt it or do the easy stuff and fix
        It when it breaks. Even the oil orifice can be a pain to do with the engine in place.

        Who's doing the work for you?

        I'd say just get an oil cooler and leave the rest of the engine alone. Keep an extra 1/4 pint Of oil in there and don't drive it a race car since its 20 years old and tired

        As for ceramics, the pistons alone were over $500. Shipping was over $200 (with customs).
        Last edited by NismoS-tune; 01-30-2013, 05:56 PM.
        Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
        Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
        Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
        Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
        Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
        White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

        Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

        start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
        lol

        Comment

        Working...
        X