Lower control arm modification?

[Dragon Humper]

If you work very carefully and really take the time to measure and measure again, you should be able to section the length you need out of the stock arms. I would just butt-weld the pieces together again, then box the arms with a strip of same thickness steel to make them rigid and re-enforce the joints. The lowers, you should be able to just move the inner pivot points right next to the cross-beam, that should give you about 1.125". With about 2deg. of camber, you might be right in the ball park.



Jon.

[caliber676]

So a little update if anyone is interested. I talked to the driveline guy and he said that a shortening of an inch is fine without shortening the cv shaft as they have enough move to do so, but he said you can if you want to be exact.

So I bolted up the hollow barrels and looked as what I was dealing with. Here is the wheel if I'd leave the fender and remove the inside lip.



So after I removed the lower control arm and the hicas delete arm I pushed the wheel back to a realistic spot and got this, bad angle.


I measured and the wheel pokes out 9mm, not perfect but there's still some room in the upper arms to go in and a lot better than the hellaflush look it had. Now to look underneath.


So just under an inch needed to be removed off the lca and the hicas rod shortened the same. Still tons of room between the wheel and the body.

I'm going to grab a used set of lca and cv shafts and see how it all goes but it looks promising for good results if I cut and but weld the lca before the swaybar mount. Ideally I want to use two heim joints in place of the inner bushings but I'll have to think of an idea for the swaybar mount.

Let the arguments commence

[Black BNR32]

Do the tension arms, or whatever they're called, need to change?

[caliber676]

The lower control arm, hicas arms and debatelby the cv shafts need to be shortened. I'm saying this with adjustable tension arms and ucas though, I don't know the situation with the stock links.

[Dragon Humper]

They would yes (the tensions, so little would be removed that you might be able to get away with not doing it all), just use the basic trig. you learned in highschool. Adjustable tention arms would be ideal but not nessisary.

I would definately shorten the half shafts. See how much end play you have before you shorten the links. Then you can test by installing them after you have done all your link shortening. Let the suspesion go to full droop and see if there is any wiggle room left by reefing the shaft in and out with your hands. If there is no room left and you have very little at the static height (normal ride height) of the suspenssion, you need to shorten the shafts. If you don't you run the risk of wiping out the CVs (most likely) and possibly the diff and wheel brgings (least likely).

I would also get the wheel where you will like it based on 1deg of camber. More than 2deg is lame and does nothing for handling or tire life. It also makes it look like you picked a wheel that will never fit and you are trying way too hard to make it work.

Keep us updated, me likey the concept.



Jon.

[caliber676]

Thanks for the help! Ill definitely be doing the cv checks.

I think I'll probably have to roll a small lip on the fender or let them poke out a bit but nothing like if I didn't modify them

[caliber676]

So everything is done and looking good! If you want to take a look I've updated my build thread with the end result, just grabbing the pictures of it on the vehicle tomorrow.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/38268-calibers-r32-gtr-project-21.html