Switching to Royal Purple

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

I'm going to be swapping all the fluids in my 32 GTR with Royal Purple. Going to be doing tranny, both diffs, attessa, xfer case, engine, and coolant. Just wondering what weights of oils the rest of you Purple guys are running. I basically have my choice of types of oils as well. Apparently Royal Purple comes in stock, semi performance, and dedicated race car formulations. Cost is not a concern as I am getting it through work.


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[MarusGTR]

I thought RP just stamped "extreme" on everything? I was running RP Maxgear in my tranny for a few years but I then realised that the slipping agents wasn't suited for real endurance MT applications so I switched to Redline.

As for motor oil I've used 30 weight on the track. No issues. The coloring does make oil quality prognosis really hard when draining it (it just turns black once used). I'm just not a fan of the all talk no real go.

[ColinR33]

I used 30 weight as well. I agree with Marus on the color comment.

[bourquetc]

u have to have a clean engine i am using 10w40. But once u clean your motor it wont be black. i put 950km on my car after its last change before going RP and it was blacker then black our engines r 25 years old any oil u put in will turn black unless u do engine flushes often

[gtrte37]

I use 10w40, and use all there oils on my car

[bobbo]

^disagree^. Although I have no brand loyalty. Ill run anything as long as its a 40 weight and a proper full synthetic. RP is a fine product but for the same reason Marus mentioned its not my first choice.
I change mine around 5k and its not even close to looking black.
You might be running rich or have vent issues.

[bourquetc]

My car isnt running rich and has been tuned professionally.U must have a somewat clean motor. my truck i change every 5000 and its black same as my lil ford escort. ive done flushes in both and now at 5000 they r getting better. unless ur motor has been rebuilt or cleaned your oil will be black. another thing u shouldnt change brands of oil all the time cause the different oils have different agents and they work against each other unless u get all of it out and do a flush.

[bobbo]

That isn't entirely accurate. An oil won't "work against" another oil in the sense that it will impede its abilities to lubricate.
The biggest issue with changing oils types after using a specific type for a long period of time is the detergents and additives of the new oil can starting breaking down the carbon and contaminants the previous oils didn't.
If you want to be technical you shouldn't add more than 10% of volume of fresh oil to your sump. This can bring the suspended contaminants out of the exciting oil.
Not to mention by the time your oil is properly drained there isn't enough left to be of concern if changing oil manufactures.
As I'm sure you know the most significant concern with different oils is making sure the viscosities are the same.

[DRIVER_R32]

That isn't entirely accurate. An oil won't "work against" another oil in the sense that it will impede its abilities to lubricate.
The biggest issue with changing oils types after using a specific type for a long period of time is the detergents and additives of the new oil can starting breaking down the carbon and contaminants the previous oils didn't.
If you want to be technical you shouldn't add more than 10% of volume of fresh oil to your sump. This can bring the suspended contaminants out of the exciting oil.
Not to mention by the time your oil is properly drained there isn't enough left to be of concern if changing oil manufactures.
As I'm sure you know the most significant concern with different oils is making sure the viscosities are the same.

not true. you can mix to get multi viscosity oil. we can blend oiles to make 7.5w30 here like the book says but it makes more sense to use 5w40 as we are a more extreme climate( bmw uses this so you can buy 4.4 jug at parts source) it just expensive.

2.2ltr of 10w30 and 2.2 of 5w30 makes 4.4ltr of 7.5w30 btw ... but 300v cannot mix!

castrol syntec, mobile 1, motul, liquimoly, enos, nissan brand all good.

[Nvdgtr]

I put redline shockproof in tranny (stuff is awesome) and RP in eveything else!!

[NismoS-tune]

For the last 7 years I used AmsOil everything but have since changed it up. I don't use cheap oil for the simple fact that it's cheap ($10-20k engine running $60 oil lol? I'll feel safer for $200 oil cause I'm silly)

Now:
I use 10-40 high performance for DD.
Eneos 0-50 for track.
My diffs use OS given oil
My tranny uses Red Like Medium duty shock proof, as per the manufacturer recommendations (new gear box)

I might consider trying Motul products or Rotella T diesel oil.

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

I'm getting it done for free, my boss is looking to become a distributor hence the switch. I currently run redline MT90 in my tranny. My motor is roughly at 100000kms and doesn't burn any oil. I was also wondering what weight of gear oil as well.


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[bobbo]

This may help...

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tech/16147-r32-gtr-fluid-compartment-list.html

[leeaspin]

I use royal purple in everything aswell. I wish I used redline shockproof in the transmission tho. It shifts so much nicer with it. Everything else has been great tho.

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

This may help...
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tec...ment-list.html

I've checked that list, but I guess we are having trouble sourcing those weights. Just wondering if anyone has tried something different.


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