VGT turbo on a rb26?

[gezed]

So I just picked up a holset VGT turbo, gona attempt a single turbo setup with it.

the unit is a HE351VE, I think it is roughtly the size of a HX40 but with a variable turbine housing geometry, I've been on other forums and there has been some success with 1jz and 2jz and also the 4g63s

after doing some research, i think this turbo has a lot of potential considering it can flow up to 74lbs/min and can potentially be very responsive, from what I've read, the hot side A/R can range between .14 all the way to 1.84

seems like an interesting project so gona see what happens this winter

thoughts anyone? havent seen many resources of these kinda turbos on rbs

[Skym]

As far as I know, they can run alot of boost without failing.

[gezed]

thats what i heard too, the turbine shaft is a lot beefier than the average turbo. and on gasoline engines there is less soot buildup and one of the failure points of these turbo is the soot clogging the vanes and etc

[Bruizer]

Hmm cool idea. I'm not sure why so many people venture from the tried and true but if you don't mind the chance of failing and heart break, do it!!

I too am doing a new kind of turbo venture but not as cool as a VGT on a gtr.

[tryingtobebest]

Great start, always was considering this in my build! Please keep us updated on this because i think it is the way to go!
Also, im not sure what are you using to control VGT system but ive seen many examples where its being controlled by wastegate so as soon as boost builds it goes smaller on .ar and kinda controls itself manually with no electronic BS!)))

Make some pics of exhaust side, with and without housing if possible!

Also, is it T3 twin scroll?

A

[gezed]

It is a T4i international T4 flange, it is a little bit different from T4 and is in between T3 and T4, but they could be made to fit on a T4 flange with some persuasion

As for control, maybe a vacuum actuator to open up the vanes while cruising and engine braking and a spring to control it under boost, basically exhaust manifold pressure will dictate how big the A/R will be so selection of the spring and its tension is really a trial and error process

using a wastegate actuator to open up the vanes works but isnt the best way to do it, because of how quickly boost builds and the actuator just opens, you will be going from a .2 A/R almost instantly to a 1.xx+ A/R and a lot of people running wastegate actuators say that they feel a noticeable drop in power as the vanes transition from a small to large A/R over such a short period of time. Spring is more progressive since it is working against the exhaust manifold pressure, and there is always an optimal manifold pressure/turbine rpm for the turbo

[Dragon Humper]

Can you post some pics of the turbine area?



Jon.

[DatsunZ31]

Let me know how this goes ive been tempted to try this and build a 750rwhp rb20 with full boost by 2,500 with such a turbo.

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[supersayianjim]

waiting for pics??

[DatsunZ31]

Waiting for updates.

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[gezed]

pretty busy these days so not much time to take pics, but took off my twin setup and just test fitting main concern being the turbine housing and it is HUGE, I'm having trouble fitting it so working on that right now

I really like how both hot side and cold side housing are held together with v-bands, it makes rotating the turbo really easy

as per request here are some pics

[supersayianjim]

kool!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DatsunZ31]

Please get this mounted and working please!

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[Bruizer]

Please get this mounted and working please!

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Or: buy an EFR with the ready to use piping and forget the endless R&D headaches

[DatsunZ31]

Because being able to make full boost my 2500 and actually have a smooth powerband till 8000rpms is a bad thing? The borg efr is too big for my rb20 and the small,ones dont meet my spool expectation.

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