Blew my turbo, options?

[bnsportsr33]

So I blew up my RB25det series 1 turbo last night. What options do I have as far as getting a new turbo that is direct replacement fitting up to the current elbow and everything, basically just putting a new turbo where the old one is now?

R33 GTS-T btw, I would like to upgrade and upgrade injectors etc but i'm in between jobs and can't afford that right now, so I'm looking for a new turbo but nothing else, just direct drop in, not so sure I want to go with another stock rb25det turbo though as I've blown 2 now (one ceramic wheel and the one last night steel wheel)

Thanks

[Skym]

If on a low budget, replace with another second hand stock RB25DET turbo.

Kinugawa rebuilt stock RB25DET turbo is similar in specs to stock RB25DET turbo and bolts on -

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/upgradeturbochargerrb20detrb25detwstage3turbine68mmcomp450bhp.aspx

If run engine at a lower boost level (equivalent amount of air to what stock turbo moves) it should be ok. Can fit a stock auto RB25DET internal wastegate actuator that is around 5psi (lowest boost level you can run with boost controller).

[bnsportsr33]

Thanks for the reply but i was wanting to get away from stock turbos to be honest i've blown 2 of them now, is there any direct replacement turbos from say HKS or Garrett that would bolt on to the stock manifold and use all the stock elbows and piping etc? with internal WG?

Thanks

[Skym]

You're welcome. HKS GTRS is popular for RB25DET (street driven) -

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/turbo/actuator/gtrs/index.html

Most want more hp, so upgrade to GT3076R or GT3071R.

Garrett equivalent of HKS GTRS is I think a GT2871R, which I think is rated to around 400hp -

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers

[beacher1B0]

Go get a cheap Rb25unit to get you to November, which is when Tomei will unveil their new bolt on RB25 turbo.
I think the price is what is the best part of the Tomei unit compared to an HKS.

[frankydodo]

If on a low budget, replace with another second hand stock RB25DET turbo.

Kinugawa rebuilt stock RB25DET turbo is similar in specs to stock RB25DET turbo and bolts on -

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/upgradeturbochargerrb20detrb25detwstage3turbine68mmcomp450bhp.aspx

If run engine at a lower boost level (equivalent amount of air to what stock turbo moves) it should be ok. Can fit a stock auto RB25DET internal wastegate actuator that is around 5psi (lowest boost level you can run with boost controller).

sold mine to a r33 guys. dynoed 365 whp at 16 psi with this exact turbo.

Envoyé de mon SGH-I747M en utilisant Tapatalk

[bnsportsr33]

Thanks guys,

Hey Skym are those two turbos you posted the HKS and Garrett both direct bolt ons? Like I wouldn't need to change anything just take my old one off and put new one on? Also do you know prices on them, I don't see any on the sites.

Thanks bro again

[bnsportsr33]

and that Kinugawa turbo, that's a stock turbo rebuilt with a stage 3? will that still spool like the stock turbo it will it be laggy?

[Dragon Humper]

What is your tune like to blow a steel turbo, that's no small feat. You sound like you need a bigger turbo with a larger turbine housing to relieve some backpressure. That means "laggy" no matter how you slice it. It's not as evil as many make it out to be. You just need to adjust your habbits a bit. Take it from a guy with one of the "laggiest" turbos going...its not a big deal.




Jon.

[bnsportsr33]

It's just a few bolt ons man, running 11 psi, I heard that was safe on the steel wheels? I have had it for about 4 years now so it lasted quite a while but who knows.. dynoed it about 3 weeks ago made 265 rwhp on 11 psi 4th gear pull... I dunno but I just did compression test on the motor and these were the results:

Cyl 1 - 130 PSI
Cyl 2 - 150 PSI
Cyl 3 - 140 PSI
Cyl 4 - 140 PSI
Cyl 5 - 130 PSI
Cyl 6 - 130 PSI

are these numbers ok? Or is my motor ******?

[bnsportsr33]

[Skym]

I think it was around 128psi is rebuild time for RB20DET (lower compression engine). Your engine (RB25DET) might be tired or have a headgasket on the way out (needs refresh and 5th, 6th cylinders being low points towards a headgasket failure sooner or later).

Around 160-170psi is considered healthy for RB20DET (I think RB25DET might be similar, but never really looked at the compression numbers for a RB25DET engine).

If ceramic exhaust wheel shatters, sometimes the bits can backtrack into the engine itself if backing off throttle. Under full throttle the exhaust wheel usually ends up in the exhaust somewhere when the shaft breaks due to out of balance exhaust wheel.

Thanks guys,

Hey Skym are those two turbos you posted the HKS and Garrett both direct bolt ons? Like I wouldn't need to change anything just take my old one off and put new one on? Also do you know prices on them, I don't see any on the sites.

Thanks bro again

HKS GTRS is a kit, but the other turbo requires custom oil feeds, intake piping (90 degree silicon hose elbow), etc.

and that Kinugawa turbo, that's a stock turbo rebuilt with a stage 3? will that still spool like the stock turbo it will it be laggy?

As far as I know, Kinugawa is made in Japan, so shouldn't have problems with it.

Laggier than stock. My car was 300rpm laggier to full boost (4psi more boost at the time) with similar turbo, but it pulled right to the redline (peak power is on the rev limiter of 7500rpm).

[bnsportsr33]

Alright well I think I'm going to pick up a stock one with steel wheel , found one locally but I will probably go with that Tomei kit around November maybe, even tho I wanted to go top mount... I'll decide later I guess.. As for my motor I guess I'll just run it till she's fully done. I thought those numbers weren't too bad for the compression test but maybe I'm completely wrong.

[Dragon Humper]

It's just a few bolt ons man, running 11 psi, I heard that was safe on the steel wheels? I have had it for about 4 years now so it lasted quite a while but who knows.. dynoed it about 3 weeks ago made 265 rwhp on 11 psi 4th gear pull... I dunno but I just did compression test on the motor and these were the results:

Cyl 1 - 130 PSI
Cyl 2 - 150 PSI
Cyl 3 - 140 PSI
Cyl 4 - 140 PSI
Cyl 5 - 130 PSI
Cyl 6 - 130 PSI

are these numbers ok? Or is my motor ******?

Those #s are not good at all and that turbo looks way to clean inside....I think you were running her really tight to the edge of lean



Jon.

[bnsportsr33]

Well put new turbo on, checked to make sure oil lines all tight. filled car with antifreeze and checked oil level to ensure good. Started up car to a normalish idle not really any noise and sounded healthy and strong then after it warmed up for a bit gave it a bit of a rev on the throttle like 4k rpms, the car then sounded like a subaru and stalled out. Refire up the car and now there is an insane loud TICKING noise coming from the motor that increases with RPM, it sounds to me like the noise is coming from the top end but it's hard to tell with those kinds of things. Would anyone have a clue what happened? The motor after I blew the turbo seemed fine to drive home on not boosting of course (drove about 20 kms home not going over 2000 rpms.)

any help would be largely appreciated.

Thank you