The Never Ending Project..

[ChasDuran]

They have checked the ecu, and the dwell spark is set just fine.. however they have unfortunately fried two more coils trying to figure this issue out. It would seem that too much current is being fed at idol, but the rest of the ignition map is fine.

We're waiting for word from Cam to see if he has any suggestions.

[Skym]

I see.

I can understand why they are looking at those settings, as the wrong dwell settings might have made the coilpacks overheat and fail (crack).

I think stock R33 ECU has -

Dwell coil charge time (mv vs percent)

Dwell coil duty time (rpm vs percent)

Since you said it happens at idle, it might be due to the dwell duty settings???

I think at 800rpm it's 7.33%.

[ChasDuran]

that sounds about right for where the settings should be.. but we are seeing spikes at idle of up to 60!

[ChasDuran]

ok.. Cam @ lightspeed has requested a bunch of data-logging, and tests.

After Chad and the TSS crew completed testing.. the issue seems to have cleared up.

We cannot road test due to the weather, but it would seem that the idle spikes are cured for now. Obviously a mysterious clearing up of the issue isn't satisfactory to anyone, so we are still going to track down the source of this little gremlin. Still not sure what the issue is/was.. but hopefully when we figure it out, some of you can dodge a potentially expensive bullet.

[Skym]

Interesting.

Maybe a loose ignition ground???

Sometimes lightly tapping the black coloured ignition module cover can showup problems. Although be careful, as they are easy to crack if you hit too hard.

[ChasDuran]

black coloured ignition module

Doesn't have one. It's a Series II RB25DET. The ignition is controlled/fired directly from the ECU.

I can see how it might have something to do with that on a series I however.

[Skym]

Oh yeah. I keep forgetting it's a Series II RB25DET with the inbuilt igniters.

[ChasDuran]

In all fairness a series I is the easier swap, and thus most common because it hooks up to the stock ECU.
Igniter box in the same place, coils swap over, etc,...

A series II just about demands a new stand alone ECU just to function at all! lol
Too many extra sensors, different coil set, etc, etc,.. It's easy to forget that someone actually used a series II for their swap. :wink:

[Skym]

Stock ECU is interesting on R33. It seems to use a odd, even setup for chip (map storage).

It's easier to use a NA R32 RB25DE head in R32 RB20DET chassis, as uses the same sensors, so can run a retuned RB20DET ECU. Although have to change valvesprings, cams, as they are designed for N/A application. Quite a common mod (NA RB25DE head) when using the RB30 bottomend.

A dude on SAU did this with his R32 (R32 RB25DE head/RB30 bottomend) and it looks like a stock motor, but has around 270rwkw or 362rwhp. I guess you could call it a sleeper (wolf in sheeps clothing). What gives the RB30 away is the height of engine, so it's easy to spot if you know what your looking for.

[ChasDuran]

Alright.. I've decided what I want to do over the summer: Gather parts for making my engine twin turbo.
I have been interested in it for a while now, and I have an idea of what I want.

I've found a decent source for a top mount twin manifold for my engine at around $500.
I can pick up a second GT-RS kit for about $1500
A greddy intake plenum for $800
and two HKS filters to replace my Blitz unit.

Thanks to the ViPEC MAP I don't need any extra AFMs' and besides a pinch of labour, piping, and some dyno time.. I think I can make this happen for under $5000.

Thoughts people?

[Skym]

Interesting.

Also don't forget twin frontpipe, twin o2 sensor.

I would use twin Apexi airfilters.

[ChasDuran]

Interesting.

Also don't forget twin frontpipe, twin o2 sensor.

I would use twin Apexi airfilters.

Thought about the piping, didn't think about a second o2 sensor! thanks again

[LIGHTSPD]

I have given Chad several suggestions with the holidays here I am sure everything is stalled a bit. The biggest thing that can do this is a bad CAS or installing a new one without recalibrating the minimum window. The other thing is bad power ground or wiring on the CAS to the ECU.

[Skym]

I see.

Faulty CAS, earth's make sense. I think there are Mitsubishi, Hitachi CAS for RB engine. AEM found a fix to this type of problem with their ECU. From what I can remember, they mention something about rising, falling edge settings for CAS and changing the wheels on CAS. Also talk about weak grounds being a problem, as the ECU is more sensitive to weak grounds than factory ECU.

[ChasDuran]

Well.. They replaced the CAS after you left Cam, and than the coils started to pop off. I doubt it's a defective CAS since the hesitation cleared up when we installed the replacement. That only leaves some type of wiring, or minimum window calibration.
Hmm...