Manny's '91 GTSexy-T Project

[m_melen]

i'm gonna throw the pistons and conrods together tomorrow. i'm thinking castrol gtx 10w30 on the pins. you guys use something similar?

also, can anyone confirm that the OEM thermostat is identical to the '90-'96 VG30 and VG30DETT?

[frankiman]

motul 6100 15w50

i think the 300zx uses the same

[m_melen]

wow 15w50? does everybody else go such a heavy weight?

[frankiman]

you can also go with 10w40

in the end, just make sure you use a high quality synthetic oil
please don't put GTX in there

[m_melen]

i spose if i'm going synthetic i should go at least 40 weight.
I'll see if Autozone has Royal Purple 10w40 tomorrow morning.
i don't have a clue what i'll use for break-in oil either, i don't think i'll be using synthetic until i've broken it in for a couple hundred miles.

[frankiman]

for break-in, you can always use the cheapest synthetic, thats the only time you're allowed to cheap-out

[M13]

Agreed with not using Castrol GTX.

you've rebuilt this engine and you're going to let it burr away with ****-oil?

Use high grade synthetics 10-40, 15-40 etc.

Or Rotella T or Chevron Delo 400

[DrMango]

please manny do not use synthetic for break in. I will send you a link with good advise for engine break in oil

Kyle

[frankiman]

or you can always use brake fuild, then brake cleaner, then... hilarity ensues
http://www.htownracing.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=40915

[Wolfattak]

or you can always use brake fuild, then brake cleaner, then... hilarity ensues
http://www.htownracing.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=40915

that has to be fake, are people really that stupid?

[m_melen]

haha i saw that thread before. almost as good as the guy who rinsed his engine out with a hose and ran it to clean the engine out. pretty sure that story was fake, though

[m_melen]

i found this stuff, anybody used it?

http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/royal-purple-break-in-oil.html

[jessem]

Agreed with not using Castrol GTX.

you've rebuilt this engine and you're going to let it burr away with ****-oil?

Use high grade synthetics 10-40, 15-40 etc.

Or Rotella T or Chevron Delo 400

My dad runs rotella 15w40 in his built 396, and has no complaints what so ever, it works cause of the detergents in it. 20w50 was to thick and it would huff a little oil, and everything else seemed to thin. Ive never heard of aynone using it in a RB, but he did warn that if you use it on an older motor the detergents could break down any build up in the motor causing seals to lose there seal.

[m_melen]

okay guys, put together one of my pistons/conrds today, just want to give somebody a chance to correct me. i put the new cp pistons and spool conrods together like the oem ones were, here's a pic. says spool on the front of the conrod with bearing notches on the right side of the engine, big grooves on top of the piston on the right side of the engine just like on the oem one. nobody says different, do they?

[M13]

My dad runs rotella 15w40 in his built 396, and has no complaints what so ever, it works cause of the detergents in it. 20w50 was to thick and it would huff a little oil, and everything else seemed to thin. Ive never heard of aynone using it in a RB, but he did warn that if you use it on an older motor the detergents could break down any build up in the motor causing seals to lose there seal.

Dragon Humper uses it and he's running near 10's. It should work for my 2L no prob. My engine feels lively, unlike the feeling I felt when I ran Mobil 1. RP was good, but was getting a bit ridiculously expensive to replace 7L (I have oil cooler/relocation and overfill by .5L usually) every 3500km.