White 'rine project

[M13]

just waiting for body parts now.

Not doing blow-through MAF until Spring, since that will require additional tuning and my holiday plans do not permit such expenses atm.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Curious as to why you went with the smaller diameter pipe off the turbo down to the intercooler and flanged to a larger diameter?

This is just my opinion, but it's a bit self defeating.. Your intake looks to be a 3" diameter inlet, the compressed air however is fighting with a 2.5" (or smaller?) outlet to IC that eventually reopens to 3". A bit restrictive.. not CRAZY but would flow nicer in uniform shape throughout.

Nice suspension components.. Driftworks makes such epic footwork. That's the whole R32 kit right? Must really handle well!

[M13]

Curious as to why you went with the smaller diameter pipe off the turbo down to the intercooler and flanged to a larger diameter?

This is just my opinion, but it's a bit self defeating.. Your intake looks to be a 3" diameter inlet, the compressed air however is fighting with a 2.5" (or smaller?) outlet to IC that eventually reopens to 3". A bit restrictive.. not CRAZY but would flow nicer in uniform shape throughout.

Nice suspension components.. Driftworks makes such epic footwork. That's the whole R32 kit right? Must really handle well!

thx.


Well, you see I did more research into the matter and making the charge pipe 3" is pointless because:

1. compressor outlet is 2.25" so should I make that 3" too?
2. on low end, this turbo has to now fill larger 3" right out of the gate, causing noticeable pressure drop.
3. by your theory, everything should be 3" for freer flow...
4. The loss of velocity (too large of piping diameter change at once) caused noticeable boost lag. (related to #2)
5. gradual step allows the air to keep velocity up.

When I mapped out what I was going to do w/ the charge piping on the hot side, I did some reading into domestic boosted applications and they recommended stepping up charge piping rather than going balls to the wall right out of the compressor. The theory is based on scavenging air as fast as possible out of the compressor.

Free flow is good, but too much flow with not much force behind it will be insignificant.

imagine blowing out of a 6" pipe and have some one feel the air come out the other end. Now instead, blow out of a cone that exits @ 6" diameter and you'll notice higher air velocity ("feel") than the previous set up.

The gradual step up of the charged piping was really noticeable when I drove it this past week.

compared to my previous set up, the boost was building up 200rpm faster, and this is the only thing I changed majorly from my last set up.

[Skym]

Wow, looks so amazing in engine, bay, underneath car, etc. Driftworks arms FTW, looks really good.

Also don't forget BOV has to be repositioned to passenger side intake piping (before intercooler) to run blow through setup. The blow through MAF has to sit on intake piping inbetween BOV, throttlebody on drivers side of intercooler.

[M13]

Wow, looks so amazing in engine, bay, underneath car, etc. Driftworks arms FTW, looks really good.

Also don't forget BOV has to be repositioned to passenger side intake piping (before intercooler) to run blow through setup. The blow through MAF has to sit on intake piping inbetween BOV, throttlebody on drivers side of intercooler.

thx.


I was thinking of doing:

TB-> MAF->BOV -> FMIC


Trying to fit all in on the coldside.

I ran my old BOV on the hotside last time and it never opened. A member from here buys it then runs it on coldside, works like before again.

[Skym]

Interesting. Seen BOV on hot side with blow through MAF setup on RB20DET.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Ah ha! Good point.
Wasn't sure what the outlet size was on the turbo, surprised it's only 2.25, although I haven't had much FaceTime with larger turbo applications I would have assumed the inlet and outlet sizes would be kept in sync.

Good bit of information though. It's true that the added volume in the charge pipes due to increased size would yield reduced spool times. I laugh at all the people at the meets with stock rb's running a gtr intercooler and 3 inch piping from their stock turbo.. Then complain about full spool reaching at 4200 rpm..

Interesting to see that setup

[M13]

Ah ha! Good point.
Wasn't sure what the outlet size was on the turbo, surprised it's only 2.25, although I haven't had much FaceTime with larger turbo applications I would have assumed the inlet and outlet sizes would be kept in sync.

Good bit of information though. It's true that the added volume in the charge pipes due to increased size would yield reduced spool times. I laugh at all the people at the meets with stock rb's running a gtr intercooler and 3 inch piping from their stock turbo.. Then complain about full spool reaching at 4200 rpm..

Interesting to see that setup

exactly,

I find the stock turbo should run 2.5" piping for charge pipe. Then up it as you see fit with power levels later.

Someone told me once my 90mm TB would be too big and "bogging down" the engine, but once I sorted my piping, I find it to be more responsive than the little stocker. When I was first setting up my charge pipes the TB felt a bit laggy.

[M13]

Interesting. Seen BOV on hot side with blow through MAF setup on RB20DET.

Also with a hotside BOV I'd have to run a long vacuum line, which I have done once and will not do that again. Looks so inefficient and messy.

[RABBIT]

sell me old fpr?

[M13]

sell me old fpr?

PL_GTR took it.


You still want the fuel rail or what?

[RABBIT]

yeah i do , just lazy .
will you do 50 shipped to toronto?

[nelsonmxmarc]

I gotta ask.. What did you do with that whack of coolant channels underneath the stock intake plenum? I need to delete these asap, they're absolutely frustrating to remove/install.. So for the future i want all this gutted.. Any tips?
I'm only assuming it's all gone because i dont believe any front facing plenum has ever had those lines on the runners..

[M13]

actually. I asked many shops what would happen when they were deleted, but they told me "it'd be fine, no change other than cooler intake mani."

So I did it. Guess what happened?


Car came very close to overheating a few times in cold weathers and had heat spikes. (temp would go up and down, C to 3/4 way to H) Had it been hotter outside, it'd def hit H.

I later looked at an RB block diagram and noticed they need that channel to circulate water properly out of the head. I don't recommend deleting. However I did make it more efficient by just making a custom set up that utilizes larger inside diameter pipes. Now the coolant temp is very good, warms up fast and stays cold (right below half mark no matter how hard I pull)


Marc, check my fb: project album 2010. I have pix of deleted version and revised. Learn from me, pulling the intake mani is a biatch!

[nelsonmxmarc]

That's what I figured! Glad you tested the water haha
Ya I've got to figure that one out, it's a bit of a rats nest down there and quite a pain to remove/ replace. I may even put the runners on and get everything sorted before even replace my head.. My other option was to fab a front face plenum like yours but then I'll need to change intercooler.. It's in debation ATM ..
I'll take a look at your setup and probably go the same route for redoing all the water fittings!
Thanks!